Rheem 43VP50E2 Power Vent Induced Draft Natural Gas Residential Water Logo
Posted on Dec 30, 2012
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Pressure switch failed to open - Rheem 43VP50E2 Power Vent Induced Draft Natural Gas Residential Water

  • Anonymous Apr 29, 2019

    Pressure Switch for a Richmond Power Vent is located in the Blower Hood, Remove the Hood from the top of the water heater, take off the 3 screws on the side panel (NOT THE TOP WHERE IT STATES DO NOT TAKE APART) You'll see the valve with the square hose on it, remove the hose and take a partially bent paper clip, slide it thru the hole to the fan until it pokes thru, scrape back an forth to remove any debris, also try to run it about an inch up the valve, place the black square tube on to the nipple which you cleaned out going to the fan and blow on it, if you can now blow thru it should work, connect the other end to the valve and reassemble being sure to tighten the clamps to the pipe heading outside. Turn on furnace and it should now work.

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Gene Haynes

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  • Rheem Master 5,391 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 30, 2012
Gene Haynes
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1) Copy following links:
Troubleshoot by type of gas control valve.
Also Scroll up and look on right side for Pressure switch troubleshoot resources.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html#intellivent

2) Post question on pro water heater forum:
http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

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Pilot does not ignite?

Look for the pattern of flashing lights when it fails after you turn the power off/on. Then look at the wiring diagram / instructions on the inside of the panel. The flah pattern should be listed. For example, two green flashes and pause, repeating may mean that the exhaust flow is not sufficient, or another flash pattern may indicate pilot is not lighting.

Likely ly a pressure switch is bad or exhaust is blocked.
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T and p valve leaking and i replace it and pressure pushes out hot water

It sounds like it's doing it's job, by not letting your water heater turn into a missile, or exploding....The "T" in T&P stands for temperature. When it gets too high, the valve will open. The "P" in T&P stands for pressure. When IT gets too high, the valve will open. When they both get too high...you know the rest...The condition can be caused by many factors.
1. The house "pressure reducing valve" is letting in too much pressure. Any more than 80 lbs. is too much. 50 to 75 is good.
2. Hot water expansion in a closed loop system...no "prv" or "water meter" bypass...To fix, you can install a small "expansion tank" above the water heater. It will allow the extra bit of water to go somewhere temporarily, Letting the T&P valve stay closed. Installation is always on the hot outlet side, because high efficiency water heaters use a "check ball" in the factory installed cold water inlet nipple, which also doubles as a dip tube. (lets cold water into the heater at the bottom)
When a gas fired water heater turns on, there is a pretty fast spike in both temp. and press.
3. The gas control valve itself, has a non resetting 190 degree, "high limit" safety shut off feature. IF that were to fail, the control would run away temperature wise, but I have never heard of one failing.
regards!
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I assume losing pressure through the PR means Pressure Relief Valve (PRV) or temperature pressure (TPR). Open in TPR may mean boiler is overheating/overpressurized. Open in PRV means the Pressure Reducer/Fill Valve in the fill line of the boiler is broken.
House Water Pressure in a home is 30/40 PSI min to 60-80+PSI max.
Boiler PRV/TPR are set at 30 PSI open (SYSTEM PRESSURE) so too high a house water pressure will open the PRV/TPR. Replace the reduction regulator on/in the fill valve assembly
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Rheem Water Heater and the LED light is flashing 4 times which according to the manual states the the "Vacuum Safety Switch is open and fails to close to sequence, how can i fix this

Rheem does not post service manuals:
Here are resources that can help solve problem:
1) Troubleshoot by type of gas control valve using other water heater manufacturer's service manuals: Service manuals are very large pdf files.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html#intellivent
2) Scroll up on same page and on right side is heading 'Pressure Switch' with 2 related pdf files.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Air-pressure-switch-testing.pdf
3) Post question on pro water heater forum
http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

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Pressure is not enough to operate pressure switch due to the several problems.
It needs to open it up and check if diaphram or similar device that operates switch is intact. If the mechanism is ok, than check the water inlet for obstruction or dirt (if there is a filter clean it) same goes for the outlet.
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