At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
rms is a method of measuring power (wattage) delivered from an amp to a speaker. In almost every case, wattage capacity of speakers is quoted PER SPEAKER. Likewise wattage output is quoted per amp output channel. Assuming a you plan on a single speaker on each output channel of your amp, you should be in good shape if your speaker wattage capacity equals or exceeds your amp's output rating. I've never seen speakers rated as wattage per pair.
(rms is the dominant way of measuring average watts of an ac sine wave signal)
Speakers are rated either at RMS (root mean square) average power or Peak Power. An RMS of about 125 watt is equivalent to 250 watt peak. To match the radio and speakers they both need to be consistent. Also do not be confused with total radio power out vs per channel.
So if the speakers are 250 watt peak power then a radio with 125 watt per channel or 250 watt peak per channel would be a good match.
If the speakers are RMS 250 watt then the radio would be 250 RMS/channel and usually with a four channel radio a total of 1000W RMS
With that much power the neighbors should hear you coming!
My information shows the XM-1652Z as being a 2-channel amp. It will not be stable below 4-ohms in bridged mode. For best power, your subs will need to be 2-ohms with all 3 wired in series. This will present a 6-ohm load to the amp. After wiring the subs in series, connect the positive speaker wire to one channel (+) and the negative speaker wire to the other channel (-). For the 1652Z no other wiring is necessary. For subs you will also want to set the LPF (80Hz) switch to the "ON" position (to the right).
Keep in mind that the rated output is only 400 watts RMS at 4-ohms in bridged mode. That's kinda wimpy for 3 subs. You would probably obtain better results from two 2-ohm subs, each connected to a separate channel. That way each sub would be getting 200 watts RMS, still low but there's lots of good subs that will sound pretty loud with 150-200 watts
IF THE RMS IS 800 THEN THAT IS THE MINIMUM YOU SHOULD RUN TO THEM. IF THE MAX IS OVER 1000 WATT, YOU SHOULD BRIDGE ONE SPEAKER TO EACH CHANNEL. YOU WILL PUSH THE MOST POWER TO THEM THAT WAY. MORE POWER = MORE BASS
yeah it will run them but you won't get your full power because the rms for your subs is high. try bridging them with some 8 gauge wire, and of you got a crossover it will help you out alot
personally i wouldnt use a sony amp for powering anything but,however if your going run it what i would recommend is if the speakers are at 4 ohms then run in series per speaker then put the speakers in series as well so you will keep your 4 ohms then run the amp in mono,however just to let you know that amp will not push fubars enough to really make them thump my advice is to goto http://www.sonicelectronix.com if you have 200 dollars you can get a nice Hifonics TXi 1508D that will push those monsters quite well thats 1 ohm stable and will barley get warm even after hours of thumpage,also if your running subs monoblocks are the way to go hope this helps you out.
IT WILL POWER THE SUBS WITH NO PROBLEM. I WILL NEED TO KNOW WHAT THAT MAX WATT THE SPEAKERS CAN HANDLE BEFORE GIVING PROPER ADVISE. RMS IS RECOMMENDED MINIMUM SETTINGS.
Yes, it should have little trouble. You will be best to keep it 2-channel and get another Sub. then run both. if you bridge it you will blow your 1 Sub. DON'T FORGET to put a in-line Low Pass Crossover in front of the Amp. OR any Sub.(one for each if you do go for 2) as they were never made for the high frequencies. An adjustable one is best for fine tuning. In thory you have a 600 watts buffer that way. If you do it Mono you are 400 watts over. If you want to go Mono you will need over 2000 watts on the Sub. end to turn it right up. Oh and some good ear-plugs if you want it loud whilst you are inside the car.
The speaker level input is designed to accept the speaker level signal from a head unit. This is generally no more than 20 watts RMS. If you drive the inputs with more than 20 watts, you risk damaging the input circuits of the amp.
×