Samsung fridge RS2555SW is not working. all temp lights are blinking. can you help

SOURCE: my fridge freezer made by samsung is on the blink

These fridges have an evaporator fan motor on both sides - the freezer and fridge side. The freezer can maintain it's temperature because that fan is working fine. I had the same problem, and replaced the evaporator fan motor on fridge side, and it solved the problem. Also, if your fan motor is not working well, or stops working, the evaporator is prone to ice build up, and will prevent proper cooling. You may want to open up panel on fridge side and see if that's the case. Taking a blow dryer to the evaporator and surrounding area (while fridge is off), or letting it sit for a few hours might solve the problem. Ultimately though, it appears as if these fan motors are prone to failure, and need to be replaced.

SOURCE: temperature adjustment

Answer the question is 1/2 or 4/5 colder?

SOURCE: samsung american fridge sn 188742bp100124K

The freezer temperature ok.
The fridge keeps freezing

SOURCE: Have a 2 year old SAMSUNG RS2545SH Side by Side

Control board has gone bad....

What happens is the defrost is controlled electronically from a circuit board, when this goes bad, the freezer quits defrosting, and freezes the fans that circulate air through the fridge side of things.

To check this, unplug the entire fridge, leave the freezer open, wait for it to defrost a bit, if this causes the fridge to start cooling again when you plug it back in, then its the defrost. You should also see ice crystals on the back of the freezer just under the icemaker.

http://forums.partselect.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/rerifgerator-side-not-below-54-degrees-6699.html

SOURCE: fridge broken, freezer is temp. that fridge should

Pull the refrig out and remove the 8 " x 10 " panel . Behind this panel , is the main control board . Unplug the refrig . Remove the BLUE plug from the board , with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the blue plug , the sequence will be wire1,wire2,space,wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and strip about 1/4 inch from each end . Insert 1 end into wire2 , and the other into wire3 . ( If you notice your compressor is not running before unplugguing the blue plug , then jump wire1 to wire3 to see if the compressor runs . If so , then the main control board is bad . Plug the refrig back in to see if compressor starts with the jumper wire in place , ) . Plug the refrig back in . After about 3 min , look in the freezer , at the bottom , behind the crisper , look for a red glow . If no red glow , unplug the refrig , and reassemble the plug and cover . This no glow , indicates a shorted defrost heater WR51X10101 . It is also advisable to replace the defrost thermostat ( pt. number WR50X10068 ) when replacing the heater . To access these parts , you will have to remove the inside rear wall of the freezer . The heater , is at the bottom of the coils , held on with 2 screws , and the thermostat , is the 1 " cylinder , with a blue and pink wire going to it , clipped on the top left of the coils .
If you do get a red glow , then the # 4 thermistor is bad . This tells the main control board , the temp of the coils , if they need defrosted , when they are thru defrosting . This thermistor is the 1 " long , torpedo looking piece , clipped on the top left of the coils , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . It would be advisable to also replace the # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly in front of the drain , also with 2 white wires going to it , slid into a housing . This thermistor , is the freezer thermistor , which tells the control board , the freezer temp and when to cycle off due to selected temperature .