Replacing a triple single pole (1980's) with a

Are you installing a combination switch-outlet?
What are you replacing? A switch? Is switch single pole or 3-way?
Or are you replacing outlet.
Do you have the Cooper TR274V?
Which device do you have?
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-Replace-outlet-with-combo-switch.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-combination-switch-outlet.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#5245

Gene
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Copy following link for specific wiring diagrams for combo switches:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#combo2
Combo switches require Neutral wire in the box.
Neutral wires are usually the white wires twisted together, covered with wire nut, and pushed to back of box.

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there should be a hot wire to the fan just look for the other wire one for fan one light one heat its there, good luck

Wiring is not fully described: Location of hot wire and neutral wire from breaker box are unknown.
If Hot wire arrives in ceiling box first, the switch box will not have white neutral wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut. Neutrals will be in ceiling box.

What is known: You are replacing single pole switch attached to one 14-2 wire going to light.
You are replacing light with a fan-light and replacing switch with a 3-pole TM8111 switch.
You have replaced 14-2 wire with 12-3 wire.

TM8111 wiring shows following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/TM8111-switch-wiring-500.jpg
Fan pull-chain wiring shows following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Fan-motor-1-344.jpg
Assume neutrals in ceiling box.
Assume Hot wire in ceiling box: Connect 12-3 black wire to black Hot wire. Connect 12-3 white wire to black wire on light. Connect 12-3 red to red wire on fan.
White neutral from fan and white neutral form light connect to other white neutral wires and covered with wire nut.
Wiring at switch:
Black Hot wire from ceiling box connects to A COM terminal.
White wire to ceiling light connects to A SP2
Red wire to fan connects to A SP1

If I understand correctly, you replaced a triple pole switch with another triple pole switch?

The key to replacing electrical devices is noting color of each screw.
Hot goes to dark screw.
Load wires going to each light connect to brass screws.
Neutral wires do not connect to switches.

Electricians don't guess, they test.
Separate wires for testing.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from power.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire.
This is the wire that comes from circuit breaker.
Hot wire connects to dark screw.
Connect each of the other wires to brass screws, and use switch to test which wire goes to which Load.

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This extra wires where taps for the non working components you mentioned.

The information is a bit sketchy, and you can add a comment with more information.

1) You have a triple switch with dark screw(s) on one side of device.
You know that Hot attaches to dark screw.
On opposite side of switch are 3 screws.
1 screw is for wire going to bath fan.
1 screw is for wire going to bath light.
1 screw is for wire going to separate light above mirror.
If you do not have a separate wire running to each Load, then you need to add a wire.

2) If I understand correctly, your wall box contains several cables
Each cable has a black and white wire.
Ground wires are twisted together and connected to green screw, and are not discussed.

3) Cable1 black and white are Hot and Neutral from breaker box.
Are you sure?
Test each wire in box to bare ground to find hot wire.
Test hot wire to each wire to find neutral wire.
If power comes from junction box on ceiling, wall box might not have neutral wire.
If neutral wire was used to complete circuits for previous switch, then it is used the same for new switch. That's where the information is sketchy.

You have 4 white wires
1 white goes to each load
1 white is neutral
Where are the black wires associated with these white wires?
Add a comment and say how many cables and where each wire was connected before.

Here's how to start.
Connect Hot to dark screw.
One at a time, connect each white to screw on other side of switch.
Turn on power and flip the switch.
If load turns ON, then that wire is correct.
If load does not turn ON, then leave switch ON. Test each of the other white wires to bare ground to see if this wire should connect to neutral. Then connect that wire to neutral and test switch again.

Are you tryng to control this GFI with a three-way switch circuit? Wire it like you would a light but put the gfi where the light fisture would be. Circuit on the side of a three way switch box (the box the switch comes in.).

Any switch always ONLY Breaks and Makes, the PHASE wire, the Neutral is COMMON.. So you can either join the phase wires to ALL contact terminals on one side, and then take SEPARATE phase wires out to each "Load" on the "Other"side, terminals. OR run a separate wire at each side, for each terminal .from Breaker box and out to the load.

The problem is that the Cooper #9530DS-K-L is actually a 3-way switch and you need a single pole dimmer switch to replace your existing single pole toggle switch.

If you want to use the Cooper switch you have you can take one of the black wires and cap it with a wire nut and connect the other two wires, but frankly, you'd be paying about 2 times the price for a 3-way dimmer switch when you only need a single pole switch.

You should be able to return the switch and get the correct one.

You should only have (2) black wires on the proper replacement switch, plus a ground wire

Hope you found this very helpful and best regards!