My hobart lxi pumps down after each wash cycle Already Tried: Cleaned all three water level probes Checked water inlet solenoid (all good) Checked inlet water pressure (all good) Checked drain pump which is supposed to pump out 3/4 of a gallon at the end of each wash cycle but it pumps 2-1/3 gallons then pops up the infamous wrench!

Did you check the gauze strainer in the water connector.

To test for voltage, use your multimeter. Turn the machine on and set a cycle, then carefully use the probes to check for voltage.

test this steps and fix it. GOd bless you

Drain Pump

If the dishwasher is loud during operation, the drain pump might be defective or might have some debris in it. This is a common problem.


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Circulation Pump

If the dishwasher is loud during operation, and the noise is a continuous drone similar in speed to the circulation pump sound, it's likely that the circulation pump motor bearings have failed. Once this happens the circulation pump will have to be replaced, the bearings are not repairable.


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Drain Impeller

If the dishwasher is loud during operation, the drain impeller might be broken, or there might be debris in the pump. Generally, to gain access to the pump the top of the pump housing will have to be removed.


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Pump and Motor Assembly

If the dishwasher is loud the motor bearings, drain impeller or wash impeller might have worn out. All three of these components are part of the pump and motor assembly. It may be possible to replace one of the impellers, but the motor bearings cannot be repaired. In that case the pump and motor assembly will need to be replaced.


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Wash Impeller

The wash impeller is a small, plastic blade. The motor spins the impeller forcing water through the spray arms to clean the dishes. If one or more blades has broken off of the impeller the dishwasher is loud. The impeller can also scrape against the pump housing if it is damaged, warped or bent.


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Circulation and Drain Pump Motor

If the dishwasher is loud during operation, and the noise is a continuous drone similar in speed to the motor sound, it's likely that the circulation and drain pump motor bearings have failed. Once this happens the motor will have to be replaced, the bearings are not repairable.


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Water Inlet Valve

The water inlet valve is an electrically controlled water valve. When it is new, the water inlet valve is very quiet. Over time, the diaphragm inside the valve deteriorates and deforms. This deformation interacts with the water rushing in and can cause a loud vibration, buzzing, squealing or other noises. If the dishwasher is loud during the filling cycle, replacing the water inlet valve may solve the problem.

You will need to replace the water inlet valve. Here is the part you need.

There are two different styles of lxis one style has a drain diverter valve probably messed up some how something stuck in it not diverting the water to the wash arms and instead pumping right down the drain I am guessing this is your problem.There is actually a little black washer in the body it is controled by a dc solenoid .washer probably come off and is gone you will have to replace the whole drain body.This drain body is a real pain to change.Not easy but it can be done.If you change it yourself get the two new short hoses that go to it it will make things easier.But pull it out before you buy anything it could just be jammed.You can reach under the machine trough the front bottom plate where the gauge is located and move the flap by hand to see if it moves.TURN OFF ELECTRIC this little dc solenoid will give you a good zap.after doing that turn electric back on.leave cover off and look under with a fashlight.live wires will be exposed keep hands clear fill machine wait for it to stop.then turn it off it will drain when finished the solenoid will click three times.this is so drain will clear itself.if it moves then you have no electrical control issues.It is probably bad diverter valve.Good luck hope this helps.

PD is not an error code. It shows that when it draining water out shortly after power-up and when shutting down. If it seems to be showing "PD" longer than usual, it means the dishwasher's control circuitry believes there is still water in the tank, due to a faulty water level probe, most like the one under the lift-out screen. It has a plastic body with a metal probe coming out the center.

There is also a dual probe at the rear of the machine, but I believe the dishwasher uses the front probe to determine when to stop draining the machine during "PD" - most likely meaning "Power Drain" or "Power Draining".

If you are not seeing any E- codes (E1, E2, E3, etc.) then these water level probes are likely just fine and the "PD" is appearing normally, as it should during draining conditions.

I'm assuming you're not seeing any error codes such as E0, E1, E2, etc. which could be related to water level probes. Be sure all probes are clean, free of lime/scale buildup which can interfere with the machine's water level detection.

For this machine to drain, three things must happen:

1. Drain solenoid must energize and pull in to actuate the drain body.
2. Drain body then redirects pumped water to the drain hose instead of to wash arms.
3. Pump must run and pump water out.

Remove the lower-front access panel (2 screws). The Drain body is the plastic L-shaped part with two hoses attached. It is visible on the bottom side of the dishwasher, centered in the machine both Left-to-Right and Front-to-Rear. The Drain solenoid is immediately to the front of the drain body.

When the machine is supposed to drain, watch the solenoid and drain body. If the solenoid pulls in and the pump runs, but pumps water to the wash arms instead of out to the drain hose, then replace the drain body (drain body is usually to blame when draining problems occur).

If the solenoid does not pull in when the machine is suppose to drain, then unplug the solenoid connector and test the solenoid coil resistance with a multimeter; you should get a resistance of, I'm just guessing here, approximately 1000 ohms, maybe. At any rate, you should have some reading on the meter, not and open circuit. It you get no resistance reading, the solenoid is bad - replace the solenoid.

Frank,does the sump probe (the one underneath the screen) look good?It should have at least one quarter inch of metal.I have seen these break and its hard to tell but the info your describing sounds like that probe is bad or the control board.I'm a hobart tech and can help you troubleshoot,let me know----Tony

It sounds like the pump is gummed up and needs to be removed, disassembled and cleaned.

Check the solenoids at the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter or ohmmeter. A lack of continuity indicates a faulty solenoid.
Hope this helped and best wishes.