How do I open the bottom cover on the laurastar g1 iron base unit ?

Sunbeam Model: gcsbcs-212
The outlet cord was bad (pinched from falling off the ironing board) inside where the cord goes into the iron.
1. Remove Bottom Sticker
2.Remove 2 Screws
3. Pry off Sunbeam Back Cover
4. Remove 2 screws
5. Pry off Cover
6. Remove Cord Clip (2 Scews)
7. Cut Cord and Strip off ends ( do I cable at a time) Red Circle
8. Crimp back and Test.

You remove the stand and all the screws on the back, then use thin flat blade screw driver to separate the case starting at the bottom edge and work you way around, the case is held together by plastic finger hooks, they go together real easy but hard to separate.
Failed TV and Monitors: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/
Basic troubleshooting guide here:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5093881-lcd_flat_panel_tv_troubleshooting_guide
http://www.fixya.com/support/r6150077-basic_lcd_monitors_troubleshooting
http://www.fixya.com/support/r7406380-tv_training_manuals
Learn about bad caps: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
Parts: www.shopjimmy.com
Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/Default.aspx he can make you a set of caps.
Or www.digikey.com just make sure to use caps with low ESR, 105c, high ripple current, long life rating such as PANASONIC FM or FC series.
Please leave rating if it helps.

Blower Motor Removal & Installation Front To Remove:
NOTE: The blower motor is positioned on the passenger side of the vehicle beneath the instrument panel, and can be removed from the vehicle without removing the HVAC housing.

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Negative battery cable
   • Passenger side cowl trim panel
   • Carpet to access the front upper screw that secures the air inlet housing
   • Recirculation door actuator
   • Recirculation door actuator wire lead from the routing clip located on the lower air inlet housing and position the wire lead aside
   • Blower motor wire lead connector from the blower motor resistor or power module, depending on application. Lower Air Inlet Housing
     
     
   • One screw (from the top) that secures the lower air inlet housing to the upper air inlet housing
   • Four screws (from the bottom) that secure the lower air inlet housing to the upper air inlet housing and remove the lower HVAC housing Blower Motor Wire Lead Grommet
     
     
3. Feed the rubber blower motor wire lead grommet through the opening in the lower air inlet housing.
4. Push the blower motor wire lead through the opening in the lower air inlet housing and remove the lower air inlet housing from the vehicle.
5. Place the recirculation-air door as needed to access and remove the three screws that secure the blower motor to the lower half of the HVAC housing.
6. Lightly bend the recirculation air door far enough down to remove the blower motor and wheel from the HVAC housing. Blower Motor Mounting Tabs
   
   
7. Remove the blower motor and wheel from the HVAC housing. Make a note of the location of the blower motor mounting tabs.

To Install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   • Blower motor and wheel to the lower half of the HVAC housing and line up the blower motor mounting tabs to the correct location on the HVAC housing
   • Blower motor and wheel into the HVAC housing by lightly bending the recirculation-air door far enough down
   • Three screws that secure the blower motor to the HVAC housing by positioning the recirculation-air door as needed
     1. Torque to: 17 inch lbs. (2 Nm)
   • Blower motor wire lead through the opening in the lower air inlet housing and seat the rubber grommet into the lower air inlet housing
   • Recirculation-air door pivot into the lower air inlet housing
   • Four screws (from the bottom) that secure the lower air inlet housing to the upper air inlet housing and the lower HVAC housing
     1. Torque to: 17 inch lbs. (2 Nm)
   • One screw (from the top) that secures the lower air inlet housing to the upper air inlet housing
     1. Torque to: 17 inch lbs. (2 Nm)
   • Blower motor wire lead connector to the blower motor resistor or power module, depending on application
   • Recirculation door actuator wire lead into the routing clip located on the lower air inlet housing
   • Recirculation door actuator
   • Carpet
   • Passenger side cowl trim panel
   • Negative battery cable
2. Perform the heater-A/C control calibration procedure.

Rear To Remove:
NOTE: The rear blower motor and blower wheels are repaired only as a balanced unit. The entire blower motor and wheel assembly must be replaced if either component is fault or damaged.

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Front center floor console cover
   • Negative battery cable Rear Blower Motor Housing
     
     
   • Body wire harness connectors from the rear blower motor power module and the rear mode door actuator
   • Body wire harness bracket from the console support bracket
   • Eight screws and the two console support brackets from the floor console base and duct assembly
   • Four screws that secure the rear blower motor housing to the floor console base and duct assembly
   • Rear blower motor housing and place it on a bench
   • Rear blower motor wire harness connector from the power module
   • Eleven retaining clips and three screws that secure the housing together
   • Two halves of the housing
   • Blower motor wire harness and grommet from the housing and remove the blower motor

To Install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   • Rear blower motor into the housing and install the blower motor wire harness and grommet
   • Two halves of the rear blower motor housing and install the eleven retaining clips and three screws
     1. Torque to: 17 inch lbs. (2 Nm)
   • Rear blower motor wire harness connector to the rear blower motor power module
   • Rear blower motor housing into the floor console
   • Four screws that secure the rear blower motor housing to the floor console base
     1. Torque to: 17 inch lbs. (2 Nm)
     2. Two console support brackets onto the floor console base
     3. Eight screws that secure the support brackets to the floor console base
        1. Torque to: 17 inch lbs. (2 Nm)
     4. Body wire harness bracket onto the console rear support bracket
     5. Body wire harness connectors to the rear blower motor power module and the rear mode door actuator
     6. Negative battery cable
     7. Front center floor console
2. Calibrate the A/C-heater control.

Find where the leak is coming from, and coat the leak or crack with silicone.

I have a whispertone vacuum, different model #, but maybe instructions will be the same. Turns out I didn't need a new belt, just clean out the crud and reset overload protector. The instructions in the manual tell you to remove the light cover and bulb first. To do this, press in and lift both sides. Push in and turn bulb counterclockwise to remove. (you need to do this because the next step involves turning the unit over). This takes you to
Step 2. Unscrew the cover screws ( on either side of bulb).
Step 3. Turn unit over. To remove cover, insert screwdriver at cover tabs on both sides and twist to release tabs.
Step. 4 Turn unit right side up. Press handle release pedal and lower the swivel. Tilt cover forward from back until front snaps free.
Step 5. Carefully insert and twist screwdriver at each brush support to free brush from base.
Step 6. Remove worn belt.
Step 7. Slide brush supports off to check and clean brush support areas.

To replace belt: slide washers and brush supports onto brush assembly.
Install new belt over motor drive, then over brush sprocket.
Snap brush supports into place on base. Be sure brush supports are not upside down.
Line up front of cover and base. Rest cover on front edge of base. Tilt cover to back. Press cover firmly until side tabs snap into place. Replace cover screws, light bulb and light cover.

Before you pull apart your laptop, check the male connector and power cord of the adapter, check it with a multimeter and or plug it into another Compaq. You could have a broken wire in the power cord, it could save you a lot of work.

To pull apart the laptop, remove the battery, hard drive and CD drive first.
Then remove all the screws from the bottom of the laptop, plus the screws on the back that holds the LCD's hinge to the laptop base.
Take a note of where the screws come from, some may be shorter that others.
The remove the keyboard (the screws should already been removed from the bottom of the laptop).
Carefully remove the plastic cover next to the base of the LCD screen, This may also cover the hinges, if necessary fold the screen flat to enable you to carefully pry this cover up and off.
The plastic top cover is clip fastened to the bottom of the case, carefully prize apart from one side and gradually work around the other sides.
You can now remove the LCD, there are two connects attached to the motherboard, unclip these.
The motherboard is under the keyboard and plastic top cover, there are screws securing it to the plastic base, remove these and you should be able to free it from the base.
Now you can solder/fix the power connector.
I suggest you use a temperature controlled soldering iron.

Don't use too much force, you might crack the plastic parts.
Best of luck and have fun.

1. Set the parking brake.
2. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
3. Unbolt the intermediate shaft from the steering column.
4. Disconnect the shift linkage rod(s) from the column.
5. Remove the steering wheel.

If you have a tilt column, the steering wheel MUST be in the full UP position when it is removed.

1. Remove the floor cover screws at the base of the column.
2. Remove the steering column shroud by place the bottom screw in the No.1 position and pulling the shroud up and away from the column.
3. On automatics, remove the shift indicator cable.
4. Remove the instrument panel column opening cover.
5. Remove the bolts securing the column support bracket to the pedal support bracket.
6. Disconnect the turn signal/hazard warning harness and the ignition switch harness.
7. Lift the column from the vehicle.
8. Remove the column support bracket

To install:

1. Install the column support bracket making sure that the wiring is outboard of the column. Torque the nuts to the specifications shown in the Torque Chart at the end of this Section.
2. Start the floor cover clamp bolt and press the plate until the clamp flats touch the stops on the column outer tube.
3. Install the column through the floor opening.
4. Connect the turn signal/hazard warning and ignition harnesses.
5. Raise the column and install the 2 support bolts.
6. Tighten the floor cover bolts to the specifications shown in the Torque Chart at the end of this Section.
7. Torque the support bracket bolts to the specifications shown in the Torque Chart at the end of this Section.
8. Torque the cover plate clamp bolt to the specifications shown in the Torque Chart at the end of this Section.
9. Install and adjust the shift indicator cable, on automatics.
10. Install the instrument panel column opening cover.
11. Install the column shroud.
12. Torque the shroud bottom screw to 15 inch lbs.
13. Connect the shifter rod(s).
14. Connect the intermediate shaft. Torque the bolt to the specifications shown in the Torque Chart at the end of this Section.

Good luck...

I had the same problem. There is a thermal cut-off switch mounted to the top-side of the base-plate. Unfortunately, you have to completely disassemble the iron to get to it. It is an easy replace, just make sure you take good notes on how it's all wired and put together. To disassemble the iron, I did this:

- Mount it in the cord base and move the switch to the "wireless" setting to remove the cord assembly from the iron.
- There are 2 small while nubs on the bottom of the blue plate in back. These are plugs. Pull them out to expose 2 screws.
- Remove these two screws plus the one in the center of the back blue plate.
- Pull the blue plate from the back of the iron and MARK all wires so you know where they go, then remove them.
- You will see 2 screws into the blue plastic base-plate at the back. Remove these.
- Open the door at the front of the iron where you pour the water in.
- Pry the spray nozzle at the bottom out (pry it forward). This will expose a third screw into the blue part of the base-pate. Remove this screw.
- Pull the white plastic and blue reservior away from the blue plastic base-plate. This will expose three screws into the metal bottom plate. Remove these three screws (on in front, 2 in back).
- Pull the blue plate away from the bottom metal plate. This will expose the thermal cut-off. There is a screw with a small metal clip holding it down. This is the part you will need to replace.

I bought my replacement part from a local electronics store. On mine, it was a 240 degree C cut-off. The part I used was from NTE. Part number is NTE8242. It cost me $1.40.

I suspect the reason this blew on my iron is because Oreck engineers didn't expect it to be plugged in all the time (my wife did not like the 'wireless' mode as it did not stay hot long enough so she uses it in 'corded' mode). If you use the iron on it's hottest setting in this mode, it appears that perhaps the plate gets hotter than 204C. That, or Oreck just got a lot of bad thermal cut-off parts and they are cutting off at a temperature lower than 240C.

I just removed the two screws on the bottom of the cord winder and made the screws tight again, works like a charm.

Special screw called "Torx tamper proof" call 925 8271011 and order "Rowenta tool" $10.00 plus shipping-this place also sells Rowenta parts