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nicolehinton Posted on Dec 12, 2012
Answered by a Fixya Expert

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Hot water heater not heating

I have a 30 gallon tank i have replaced the upper an lower elements and thermostats an still have no hot water voltage is good what could be the problem

1 Answer

Gene Haynes

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  • Rheem Master 5,391 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 13, 2012
Gene Haynes
Rheem Master
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Joined: May 07, 2012
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Hello Nick. probably a simple problem:
1) Check across top two screws on upper element for 240volts.
Circuit breaker can be tripped on one leg so water heater appears to have power, but only has 120Volts to ground, and not full 240Volt potential across both wires.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html#electricity

2) Move wires to another same-size circuit breaker
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-circuit-breaker.html

3) Add comment and say what you find, and for more assistance Dec 2012

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 3 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 17, 2008

SOURCE: no hot water

If the water does not heat, then you have to troubleshoot to find the problem. With a voltmeter determine if 240VAC is actually getting to the water heater. Take care here - a defective circuit breaker can give a false 240 volt reading - check for the 240 volts across the upper element (i.e. when the 240 volts has a live load on it, not just an open circuit test).
Also, remember, the upper element has priority over the lower element, and if the water is cold, the upper element will try to turn on and this locks out the lower element (only one element is allowed to heat at any given time). The lower element comes on ONLY after the upper thermostat is satisfied. Therefore if the upper heating element is burned out you will never get any hot water. If you suspect this, TURN OFF THE POWER TO THE HEATER and take a resistance check of the upper element.

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Donni Steen

  • 687 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 10, 2009

SOURCE: not enough hot water

Makes you feel good to save some money right? Have a great day!

Anonymous

  • 61 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 19, 2009

SOURCE: warm water only

You can eliminate the shower control knob possibility by turning on your hot water anywhere else in the house. If you get hot water in other places, then it could be the knob causing it. A substantial lime buildup in the tank can also cause poor heat transfer from the elements to the water.

barterjoe

Joseph Mueller

  • 346 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 15, 2011

SOURCE: My hot water heater tripped the circuit breaker on

Tough problem here. Most dual element heaters share one line. if this is the case and you have power on the top and none on the bottom I would check the connecting wires one to another. also check the settings of the thermostats. They may be adjusted all the way down. If the wires and connections are good I would recommend ohm testing the new elements. I have burned elements out by introducing cold water to very hot coils (forgetting to turn the water on after flipping the breaker)
Never forget that calcium buildup will short the element. If touching on the bottom you will burn it up.
If this does not help try borrowing hot water from neighbors ;)
Good luck
Joe

Testimonial: "top element = O ohms, burned out. Replaced top element, turned water on and waited for tank to fill this time "Prior" to plugging in. THANKS!! "

Anonymous

  • 235 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 21, 2011

SOURCE: I just installed a marathon

The top element should be heating if there is 240 volts across the element terminals. I take it that the top element is the booster element. The thermostat for the top element is normally a 2 pole thermostat which switches the neutral to the bottom thermostat once it reaches temperature. Once this occurs then the bottom element will start to heat. The top element will only come on when you use all the hot water. Is this supply on the off-peak rate? When testing always check the voltage across the element terminals.

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0helpful
1answer

I have a Richmond 50 gallon on core water heater electric only have about five minutes for the hot water from do you were at the shows on the display bottom tank is at 58° how do you adjust the bottom part...

It appears that the water heater has 2 elements but on 1 thermostat, I would hope that there is an upper and lower thermostat . If water heater has just been installed the cold water feed is hooked to the hot water discharge, Cold water to cold hot to hat. They are marked on top of unit..Or the unit was powered up before tank was fully purged. If there is only 1 thermostat Shut power down and using a DMM check resistance on upper heating element and compare to lower. If the element is damaged it will show a high resistance. You can buy replacement elements, at box stores.
https://hw.menardc.com/main/items/media/RHEEM001/Install_Instruct/StandardElec_UC.pdf
2helpful
1answer

Got 5 minutes of hot water then cold. replaced both elements and thermos. still 5 minutes of hot water. power bill increased nearly 400% in 30 days. HELP!!! please.

When the top of the tank is hot the upper thermostat removes power from the upper heating element and transfers the power to the lower thermostat and heating element. If the lower thermostat is defective, then the lower portion of the tank will not be heated and the supply will be greatly reduced. You replaced both elements however check that the lower element is coming on after ther upper one cuts out and is acutally working.
Check for power at the upper thermostat terminals where the power is sent to the lower thermostat and heating element. If there is no power then the upper thermostat should be replaced. If there is power then check for power at the lower heating element. If there is no power at the lower heating element then replace the lower thermostat.
If there is power to the lower heating element then it should be getting hot. If it is not, maybe defective. Another possibility is a broken dip tube. Check for a broken dip tube and replace if necessary.

If the dip tube is broken, the incoming cold liquid can mix with the out going hot liquid and cause it to seem as though you are running out.
0helpful
2answers

LOWER ELEMENT IS NOT GETTING ANY VOLTAGE ON MODEL 65220RS

Short answer: Thermostats may be bad. Replace both thermostats.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

Long answer:
1) If water heater has some hot water, then upper element is good and water heater has 240Volts, and best suspect is burned out lower element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-clean-sediment-out-of-electric-water-heater.html

2) If water heater has no hot water because 240volt circuit breaker is tripped on one leg, and only 120Volts is arriving at water heater, then upper part of water heater can appear to have voltage and lower part of water heater can appear to have no voltage.
Open following links for troubleshoot steps:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Test-electricity-to-water-heater.html

Add a comment for more help
2helpful
2answers

Hello - I have a 6-7 yr old Whirlpool EnergySmart 50 gallon 5500 watt water heater. (Two control boards fried and were replaced free). Symptom now is not enough hot water. No 'error codes' are blinking...

1) Residential water heaters are non-simultaneous. Only one element works at a time.
Upper element comes on until top of tank is heated, and then lower element is switched on until lower part of tank is heated. Lower element keeps tank hot during standby hours
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

2) Typical Whirlpool energy smart has 4500Watt elements. Look at label on side of tank
If both elements were ON, that would draw 9000Watts or 37.5 amps, requiring 50 amp breaker and 8 gauge wire. V x A = Watts.
All dual-element tanks are 240V.
Whirlpool energy smart requires 10 gauge wire and 30 amp breaker so electronics are not starved during operation. If your wire or breaker are undersized, that is suspect for repeated failure.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html

3) Typical electric water heater heats 21 gallons per hour. First hour delivery is higher since elements heat water as you use it. Overall however, electric water heater cannot re-heat as fast as gas because gas water heater burner carries more BTU punch per minute than electric element. Gas heats about 41 gallons per minute, with higher first hour delivery.

4) IF YOU HAVE OLDER energy smart and installed newer board, then you could have non-simultaneous operation is reversed so that lower element comes on first.
Read following post at Fixya:
http://www.fixya.com/support/t8263226-our_water_heater_doing
Contact Whirlpool 1-877-817-6750

5) Another potential problem is that you have sediment inside tank and that is reducing efficiency of lower element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html

Add a comment with your experience so others with same-similar problem can benefit.

Also take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.
0helpful
1answer

Hi...I have a Whirlpool water heater and the water only stays hot for a few minutes. How do I adjust the temperature or settings so that I can have hot water all the way through the shower instead of...

I am guessing this is an ele water heater and the temp setting are not the problem.
Problem: Not enough hot water or water temperature too low. When the top of the tank is hot the upper thermostat removes power from the upper heating element and transfers the power to the lower thermostat and heating element. If the lower thermostat is defective, then the lower portion of the tank will not be heated and the supply will be greatly reduced.
Check for power at the upper thermostat terminals where the power is sent to the lower thermostat and heating element. If there is no power then the upper thermostat should be replaced. If there is power then check for power at the lower heating element. If there is no power at the lower heating element then replace the lower thermostat.
If there is power to the lower heating element then it should be getting hot. If it is not, replace it. Another possibility is a broken dip tube. Check for a broken dip tube and replace if necessary.

The dip tub is located under the fitting where the hot water comes out.
0helpful
1answer

I'm getting hot water for 2 minutes , then it gets cold

Most electric hot water heaters have two thermostats, one near the top of the tank and one near the bottom, and are covered by removable metal cover plates. The thermostats are pressed firmly against the bare metal wall of the hot water heaters tank.

The top thermostat usually has a high limit switch that will trip if the water gets too hot. When it trips it shuts off the electricity to both the upper and lower heating elements.

To reset the high limit switch there is usually a red button that you must press. When the upper limit switch trips it is often an indication that something else has gone wrong with the heater.


When the top of the tank is hot the upper thermostat removes power from the upper heating element and transfers the power to the lower thermostat and heating element. If the lower thermostat is defective, then the lower portion of the tank will not be heated and the supply will be greatly reduced.
Check for power at the upper thermostat terminals where the power is sent to the lower thermostat and heating element. If there is no power then the upper thermostat should be replaced. If there is power then check for power at the lower heating element. If there is no power at the lower heating element then replace the lower thermostat.
If there is power to the lower heating element then it should be getting hot. If it is not, replace it. Another possibility is a broken dip tube. Check for a broken dip tube and replace if necessary.

Hope this helps out

0helpful
1answer

Not getting enough hot water

You posted under Rheem 40 gallon tank-type electric water heater.

You have some hot water so that says specific things:
-Upper element is working.
-Electricity to water heater and circuit breaker are good
-You don't report a leak so TP valve is good
-You are not experiencing overheating event
-ECO reset button is not tripped
-Insulation and covers are in place so thermostat not exposed to cooler temperatures that would cause thermostat to misread temperature and cause overheating.

That leaves 6 suspects listed in order of difficulty:
1) Leaking faucet or broken water line that is running hot water all the time and tank cannot keep up.

2) Thermostats set too low. Turn power OFF, open covers and check each thermostat.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-adjust-temperature-on-water-heater.html

3) Loose screw, loose wire at upper thermostat, lower thermostat, or lower element. Turn power OFF and tighten screws, and look for signs of high heat and burning, especially on lower element.

4) Upper or lower thermostat. Replace both thermostats for $28 and see if that corrects problem.
Parts available at home center, hardware, or plumbing supply
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

5) Defective wire between upper and lower sections of tank: If this is the case, and water heater has 2" foam insulation, then tank usually replaced since insulation is too dense to drop another wire. Call for manufacturer for warranty information. Do a full troubleshoot using multimeter.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-manufacturers.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

6) Lower element is burned out. Test lower element. Replace lower element. Rheem elements are 4500 Watts and are available at home center, hardware, or plumbing supply
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-element-and-clean-sediment-out-of-electric-water-heater.html

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.
0helpful
1answer

We just recently replaced both heating elements in our water heater. Now the water is just barely getting warm and not hot. What's wrong??

Electric water heater if fully repairable by homeowner:

A] First of all, we know your upper element is working because you have some hot water:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html
That says tank is not overheating.
It says tank is getting 240Volts.
It we know water heater is 240Volts because you have 2 elements.
And it says reset button is not tripped.

B] That leaves 4 suspects:
Suspect 1) Bad Upper thermostat or Bad Lower thermostat: solution replace both thermostats for about 25$. Steps shown in link below.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html
Suspect 2) Burned out Lower element: solution take out element, clean sediment out of tank, put in new element. Steps shown in link below
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-clean-sediment-out-of-electric-water-heater.html
Suspect 3) Loose wire or connection: solution open covers and remove insulation and look for signs of burning and high heat. Tighten all screws very tight. Replace burned part. Put insulation and covers back over thermostat so thermostat not exposed to cool air which will cause thermostat to misread tank temperature.

C] Before replacing anything, you can test water heater parts and determine exact cause of problem. Testing requires $5 multimeter from Lowes or Home Depot:
Install battery in multimeter.
When test calls for testing voltage, rotate multimeter dial to 240 or 250 or 277 Volts.
When test calls for testing continuity, rotate multimeter dial to ohms (upside down horseshoe symbol is ohms)
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html
After doing 30 minutes of testing, you will be expert in water heaters.

D] You replaced elements for a reason
.
Did you test elements before replacing?
Was tank producing some hot water before you replaced elements?
If tank producing some hot water, then lower element was bad, and upper element was good.

And when you replaced lower element, did you also clean sediment out of tank?

If sediment builds up inside tank, it will reach lower element and burn out the element.
That could have been original problem, and it could be same problem again.
Restore full efficiency to tank by cleaning out sediment and replacing lower element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html

E} More reading to preserve tank and save money long term
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html
1helpful
2answers

Rheem 83xr52-2 50 gal residential water heater. Water temp was low. I cut power at electric panel, removed upper panel on water heater, turned up thermostat, replaced panel and switched power back on at...

You can open the top up again. I would not turn the temp higher than 130 degrees, maximum. However, there should be above the thermostat a red button. This is where the power wires connect to the thermostats and heating elements. Sometimes this button needs to be reset, press it and discern if you hear a click sound. This means that the high temperature safety switch has tripped open and you had to manually "reset" it. There are two thermostats by the way. The water heater usually works this way. There are two thermostats and two heaters. The upper tank heater turns on first and it heats the top half of the tank. Then when the thermostat above is satisfied it then allows the bottom heater to come on and heat the bottom half of the tank. You might want to set the bottom heater thermostat as well. This is made this way because it is actually faster and more efficient to heat the top half first and the bottom half secondly. Try this first with the reset button. We could check voltages, but that requires a level of knowledge and safety that I am not sure that you are comfortable with. Pictures of the upper and lower thermostats and connections will help if the "reset" does not do the trick. By the way, not meaning or implying anything, but did you move the thermostat in the right direction? Sometimes the dials can be confusing.
0helpful
1answer

Water Too Hot

needs new thermostat(s) If the whole tank is heating( next time it trips, before using any hot water check the lower tank thru the lower element access(breaker off) If the lower tank is hot-you need a new lower thermostat. if just the upper part of the tank is heating -you need an upper thermostat.
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