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You will need a meter. I wouldn't worry too much about the light unless you realy need it. There is a good chance some moisture has got into the connection and ruined the switch. But if you have no light and no compressor running I would have to check where the main connections are for power to the freezer. If you have power to the receiving end of thempower cord then I would move to the t-stat to see if the contacts are closing when you turn it colder. If they do and you have power through the t-stat then move to the compressor. Pull the little black cover off of the compressor when the power is off for safety reasons, then plug it in and check for incoming power to the compressor. If it is there then you may have a faulty compressor or overload or relay. But that is a slim to nun chance. Probubally the compressor. To check the compressor pull all of the wires off of the compressor remembering where they go( unplug freezer first). Then use the ohm meter and chech across all three terminals. Two terminals will have a low ohm reading 1-5. Then the other will be 5-10 the the last will add up the the others if it woes not then the compressor is shot.
Let me give you a little check list. Is the freezer on an extension cord? Sometimes the cord degrades and doesnt want to carry the current needed to run the compressor. If the cord is too small the damage to the compressor is usually fatal causing the windings to burn open or become to weak to start. Is the outside of the freezer open enough to allow air to flow freely around the cabinet? Is the freezer in a hot area? Is the door gasket in good shape and not torn or missing? Did you just get this freezer? If you laid it on its back it could have loaded up with compressor oil on the head and locked it up. As a last resort you might unplug the freezer, remove the compressor terminal cover and look for a burnt or loose wire. These compressors are fractional horsepower with very low torque to get them started and it really doesnt take much to cause them to cycle on their overload protectors. I wish I could offer more hope. Good luck hope this helps.
We purchased this same Kenmore chest freezer model 19502/19702 in 2010. In less than 2 years the compressor quit. If you do a search on this model you will see dozens of complaints. Don't waste your time or money on this freezer.
A compressor can go bad in many different ways and doesn't have to trip breakers or blow fuses. I was in the appliance repair business for over 40 years.
1. is light on in side when you open the door. If not check breakers or fuses. 2. Can you hear the compressor running. If not do you hear any clicking sounds. 3. If you hear clicking sounds, try putting a fan on compressor and unplug refrigerator. 4. Wait one hour. 5. plug back in. If compressor starts let it run and see if it cools, if it doesnt, call service man. 6. If it goes back to clicking, call a service man. let me know if this helps.
if the compressor buzzes periodically but doesnt start then that would be a bad "starting capacitor" (usually mounted on or near the compressor with wires to the compressor .. if the compressor runs but no cooling then thats low refrigerant (it has to be recharge) ..
if compressor is running, then you are correct in saying no point in replacing stat.
by sounds of it you have a faulty compressor fault or a syatem fault - impossible to dignose by remotely. this is not a diy job i'm afraid
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