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While disassembling NO,NC relays on my Nordyne furnace I failed to mark the black & yellow wires coming from blower. The relays are 20A-10A 240VAC. Is there a web site I could go to for diagrams.
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Your system has a dual stage system for better efficiency. That is what the extra wires are. Either get the proper thermostat or decide to operate in single stage mode. High or low - you choose.
Marking
Wire Color Code
Description
Marking
Wire Color Code
Description
R
Red
Power, 24 Vac transformer
Rc
Red
Power from cooling, 24 Vac transformer
Rh
Red
Power from heat, 24 Vac transformer
C
Black/Blue
Common of 24 Vac transformer
W
White
Primary heat cell relay
E
Brown
Emergency heat relay
Y
Yellow
Primary cool call relay
Y2
Yellow
Secondary cool call relay
G
Green
Fan relay
O
Orange
Change-over relay to cool relay
B
Blue
Change-over relay to heat relay
A
Heat and cool active to any relay
L
Emergency heat active lamp
X
System malfunction lamp
P
Defrost control lamp
With a meter you can track down where the voltage stops. Typically you will have the speed wire landed on the "NO"/normally open terminal of the relay with the hot on the other one. when the relay energizes it closes the circuit sending voltage to the speed wire. First be sure you have high voltage to the relay. If voltage present you can carefully put the speed wire either directly to the hot or on the "NC" side. If any doubts on your ability dont do it, its dangerous. Keep us posted.
Most likely the fan relay is defective or the electric heater is defective. If the fan will not turn off, the cause is generally the electric heat is being back feed from a defective heat strip., Recommend call pro. If so inclined, remove power, breaker etc find 1/4or 5/16 driver and Remove panel from the ah. Look for the fan and follow the wires back to the relay( this is usually black,for high speed, blue for.med and red for low ) Follow the fan speed tap to the relay. If the relay is burnt or looks defective replace this part. If no defect is obvious remove the wire from the NC (normally closed) connection. Plug the power and check to see if the fan starts with out command. If the fan starts it definitely the relay. Note the wire removed from NC might be hot check with meter if it is and the electric heat is signalling the fan to run and most likely source of defect is the heat sequencers, (switch relays for high voltages) replace this part
The wire that runs to the glo-plugs comes from the relay and as it is a heavy gauge wire (colour coded ) try tracing it back to a relay. IT may be completely separate to all the others.
This is going to be a tough one to explain, but from the schematic I found, this is a transformer/controller all in 1. So we are using this 1 module for 2 purposes. The R terminal should connect to the wire that's connected to R at the thermostat. And the C terminal should connect to the C wire coming from the C terminal at your t-stat(if used), as well as your common that returns power from your contactor at the o.d. unit. You'll have 2 wires going to the o.d. unit, 1 connects to Y and 1 connects to C to the 8a501 box. The G and W should also be connected to the wires that connect to G and W at the t-stat. That is your low voltage side. Now, this line voltage side is more difficult. You'll need to know what wires are your fan speed taps on your blower motor. And also, does your unit close the N/O(normally open) contacts for heat or cool? Normally it closes for cooling, so your high speed wire would connect to the n/o wire, and your line voltage supply would connect to the bulk/yellow. And then your medium or low wire from your blower would connect to the N/C wire. The schematic is there on the side of the module. This may be beyond your experience and may cause motor winding failure with in seconds of operation. Also, ensure with a volt meter that all power is disconnected! And all run capacitors are discharged! I've not wired 1 of these modules but from the schematic, seems simple, AS LONG AS YOU KNOW WHAT THE MOTOR SPEED TAPS ARE. Hope this helps, and if you're unsure, call a professional. The labor should be less than the cost of a damaged motor.
This should be 110v so you will have black wires, white wires and ground wires. The grounds wires both go to the ground bar, the whites wires both go to the nuetral bar, or can be wire nutted together, the black incoming (feed) wire goes to the buss bar that the breaker plugs into and the black going to the furnace goes into the breaker lug.
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