Power comes on, but the lights dont

Yamaha pianos go through a self test on start up. This could indicate a problem on the main motherboard.

Try a hard reset.

Hold down top C key while turning on.

Wait for it to start up, if it still freezes its time to take it to the repair shop.

I have 6 of these in my lighting rig, and the most common problem has been a bad bulb socket. If your bulbs end up with corroded or blackened terminals, you should replace the socket. The black/corroded stuff can cause the connection to become intermittent, sometimes so badly it entirely doesn't work.

The other common problem I've seen involves a resistor on the circuit board that powers the light bulb. I believe it's R2 - regardless it's the only big one. It's value is .5 ohms at 3 watts. Be sure to use a flameproof resistor when replacing it, and most likely your fixture will light up again.

There are NO "yellow" overload LED's period. The clip or overload RED LED's are just above the PFL buttons for selecting a solo channel. There are "yellow" signal received lights (level set) up near the trim controls. In normal operation these will light when signal is received. Here is schematic for the PMP5000 which is really identical for the 6000.
http://elektrotanya.com/behringer_europower-p0569_hca2400_sps1000_dpx_pmp-1280s_5000_sch.pdf/download.html This has part of the DSP and PS and the PA circuits.
Scroll down to "get manual" and click on it to download. Ignore other download links on the page.
Try turning off the Phantom power if it might be on... If that stops the hum, something is the matter with the bypasses feeding Phantom power to those channels... Possible problem might be shorting of one of the coupling caps at the preamp input. The PMH5000 drawings are more accurate at the input circuits. You will note that the level set LED's are the yellows, and the clip/PFL LED's are the red ones. I suspect that RF bypass caps such as C110 or C121 (example typical for channel one) might be shorted. This makes noise on the Phantom power line unbalanced and will get into the channel where one of these caps is shorted. Do a test: Plug a shorting jack that shorts the tip to the sleeve intot he inssert for the channel. With the LOW CUT button up, observe is the level set LED for that channel dims or goes out. If it does, then I supect you have a shorted RF bypass cap at the input..The next test involves driving a KNOWN balanced signal into the XLR jack and using a TRS in tthe inout 1/4 inch, test the levels with an oscilloscope to verify the hot and the return have equal amplitudes. I they don't, congratualtions you have to tear the main board out... lots of knobs and screws to access the inout circuits and verifuy the cause... it could ALSO be a bad transistor in the inout pair, etc...

Make sure you have the OFFICIAL Digitech power adapter. Universal adapters or those for MOST other pedals will NOT work... things may light up but you will NOT get audio. This unit requires an adapter supplying 9 VAC (not DC) at about 1 amp. These AC output adapters are not very common and people get the units without an adapter and try using universal adapters and they do not work. An AC adapter is used by Digitech so they can generate both plus and minus voltages internally. I don't know what your utility power voltage is in Cebu, so you need to get an adapter for your voltage that will give 9 VAC output and fit the power jack on the unit.

What adapters have you tried? The P85 REQUIRES a 12 VAC adapter, NOT the common DC type and it needs a 1.5 amp (1500 ma) type adapter. If you connected a DC adapter it will NOT do damage, the unit just won't work. You can find adpaters on Ebay or Google search.

Not uncommon for a switch to fail... especially the weak types they use on these strips. The inrush current when turning on the amps makes quick work of these switches. Replace the switch and get spares for the next time it fails.

Holding the page up and down buttons while powering on supposedly resets it. I have no sound except demos, but no lights showing like yours, and williams tech support said to reset that way but it didn't seem to do anything. Good luck hope this helps!

Hello!
I am not positive on this but I would try to clear all of the loops. Try holding the right pedal for about 5 seconds.
If that does not work, hold the right pedal for about seconds while you turn off the unit. Release the right pedal then turn the unit back on.
Hope that helps!

Make sure you are using BALANCED line to this... XLR connections boyh ends. Make sure ALL interconnected devices are powered from the same receptacle or power conditioner. Test your cables... they do go bad. This unit REQUIRES line level input. Do NOT expect a mic to drive it directely. Make sure your mixer uses the XLR outputs and is powered from the same receptacle, even if you have to run an extension cord to it. This is a bi-amped speaker so there are independent amps for high and lows. With nothing out and known good in there is very little electronics before the signal is split to the separate amps. At line level, your volume control should probably be about 2 o'clock with the EQ's straight up flat.

If the tubes are not lighting, either the fuse has blown or the power transformer might have an issue.

Be vvery careful as there are lethal voltages present in these.

If the fuse blew, replace it and try just once as there could be other problems and more damage could be done.