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I hopped on over to the website: https://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com
In the search window (in the upper right corner) I typed: Panasonic TV Blink Codes
While your exact TV model is not mentioned, most of the Panasonic TV 12-blink error codes referred to a Sound SOS circuit board. If you take a look at that site, and search for the year your TV was manufactured, you might find more specific information.
try going google and typing in -- user manual for hicence smart tv--and seeing if there is a pdf version for down load
that will tell you all that you can do with the tv
Need models of TV and soundbar to be more specific.
Generic help: Not plugged in correctly (you connected to the TVs red and white sockets without realising that they are a "signal in" and not a "signal out" type socket. Incompatible (i.e. asoundbar that uses ARC but the TV doesn't have it). Wrong TV settings - You're connected to the headphone jack but you didn't bother reading the manual that tells you there's a separate control for audio out via that jack and it's buried in the menus. The list goes on.....
Read the manuals, and don't just guess where things plug in. That's always a good start.
From the video, there is only a picture of a security feed. Please be specific as to model, type of equipment, description of problem and desired solution.
You didn't include the Sony Bravia model that you own - so I can't be more specific. If the TV is set up to use RF (radio frequency) codes instead of IR (infrared) codes; the universal types probably will not work. This is because most universal remotes are the IR type.
The remote included with your TV may have inadvertently be switched to send the codes as an IR type while the TV will respond only to RF type codes. It may also be that the TV was changed to respond to RF codes only. Either way, check your manual (or your TV menu settings) to see how to set the TV and the remote to work in the same mode.
If you can't find your manual, reply with your TV's model number - and if possible the remote's model number, too. I'll see what I can find that is specific to your TV.
I hope this helps & good luck. Please rate my reply. Thank you.
Bad capacitors. On my set HDMI looks clear, but component inputs have moving horizontal lines. There's a guy named Tbully on AVS forum that did a PowerPoint presentation that will point you to the capacitors to change. Sorry I don't have a link at this time.
Without doubt the Philips had an amp built in for the subwoofer. So that when it is connected to the TV the sound signal from the TV is just too weak to power it.
My advice would be if you can't get a another receiver is to look up the specifications of the it. You should then be able to find a suitable amp that will power the subwoofer for the TV from those specifications.
Unless you had the remote tested by Samsung, the test isn't comprehensive; it will only tell if the remote is putting out infra-red of some kind, that type of tester cannot determine if the codes are correct or complete.
The only true test would be one in which you had a second TV or a second, known working remote. Even using an oscilloscope with an infra-red detector wouldn't help unless one had the specific code sequences available, it would only appear as a pulse train.
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