SOURCE: UL Code
Solved the unbalanced problem - open the top of the machine (press in with a flat putty knife about 3" in on the front on each side while lifting up as there are 2- 1" wide catches). Once both sides are unlatched, raise the lid then slightly lift the rear of the lid so that it fits into the curved part at the top of the hinges then open all the way - tape the lid to the top so it doesn't flap about and scotch the lid to keep it from falling back down on you. Now, look around - see all that rust? The rust has fallen into and gotten underneath one or more of the 4 white plastic suspension "ball joints" which have probably totally dried out by now from their factory grease because of the water, bleach, and rust particles. Having someone help you, simply lift up on one of the 4 corner suspension rods - gravity and weight is all that holds them down. The white ball will lift out of the socket and still be attached to the rod. Clean out the rust, lightly sand the "socket" with emery cloth, then slop in a fingerful of grease. I used automotive wheel bearing grease with graphite in it. Also scrub off all embedded rust on the white plastic ball. Lower that corner back into the newly cleaned and greased socket and repeat for the other 3 corners. Now when you move the tub around notice how the balls pivot in their sockets like they are supposed to. When they were dry and rusty they wouldn't move enough to allow the tub to twist like it should so it slammed around. Now, shake your head in disgust that after only 2 years there is so much rust that you wonder if it will make it another year before falling apart, close the lid, and try another load. That totally solved my off-balance problem where even a single handkerchief would give the UL error. It is still a finicky machine, but at least once again works like it did when new.
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite front load washer stops and blinks F35 and locks up
f35 code indicates a pressure switch problem. Try unplugging unit for 2 minutes.Plug back in and test.If F35 reappears,check hose from tub to pressure switch
SOURCE: want to disengage lid lock on maytag centennial
I had the same problem. The lid lock assembly is broken.
If you are under warranty get it replaced. If not remove the top of the washer
and take out the switch assembly. The 4 wires going in are Yellow, Red, White,
and Blue. If you short the white and blue together, the washer thinks the lid
is closed. If you short the red white and blue together the washer thinks the
lid is closed and locked. The yellow is only there to activate the
electromagnetic switch.
Disconnecting the switch assembly will not work.
The electromagnet locks the lid and it also unlocks the lid. It is not a matter
of cutting the power to the magnet.
Installing 2 switches that connect the red white and blue is the best option if
you want to remove the lock.
The first switch should connect the white and blue. (LID CLOSED)
The second should connect the red to the white/blue connection. (LID LOCKED)
After that the lid should work.
Please post a follow-up if this works for you.
GOOD LUCK
SENSING Page 5
When the START/PAUSE/Unlock Lid is pressed, the washer will first perform a self-test on the lid lock mechanism. You will hear a click, the basket will make a slight turn, and the lid will unlock briefly before locking again. Once the lid has locked the second time, the washer will use short, slow spins to estimate the load size. These sensing spins may take 2 to 3 minutes before water is added to the load and you may hear the hum of these spins. If the sensing light is on, then washer is working properly. You will hear the motor turn the basket in short pulses to thoroughly wet the load. The washer will then move the load briefly, pause to allow water to soak in to the load, and resume adding water. This process may repeat until the correct amount of water has been added for the load. You may also hear water flowing through the dispenser, adding detergent to the load.
NOTE: Avoid opening the lid during sensing. The sensing process will start over when the washer is restarted. The sensing light may also come on during the Soak and Wash portions of the cycle. This is normal.
If there's no water, then Page 13
Washer won't run or fill, washer stops working, or wash light remains on (indicating that the washer was unable to fill appropriately)
Check for proper water supply.
Both hoses must be attached and have water flowing to
inlet valve.
Both hot and cold water faucets must be turned on.
Check that inlet valve screens have not become clogged.
Check for any kinks in inlet hoses, which can restrict water flow.
Or you have an inlet valve that is not working
I had the same problem. The lid lock assembly is broken.
If you are under warranty get it replaced. If not remove the top of the washer
and take out the switch assembly. The 4 wires going in are Yellow, Red, White,
and Blue. If you short the white and blue together, the washer thinks the lid
is closed. If you short the red white and blue together the washer thinks the
lid is closed and locked. The yellow is only there to activate the
electromagnetic switch.
Disconnecting the switch assembly will not work.
The electromagnet locks the lid and it also unlocks the lid. It is not a matter
of cutting the power to the magnet.
Installing 2 switches that connect the red white and blue is the best option if
you want to remove the lock.
The first switch should connect the white and blue. (LID CLOSED)
The second should connect the red to the white/blue connection. (LID LOCKED)
After that the lid should work.
Please post a follow-up if this works for you.
GOOD LUCK
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