Installing oven wrap and back insulation

No you do not have the correct board most parts retailers will not accept a return for an installed part

First, no First, no First unplug the range after you gently scoot away from wall. Then check youy main circut breaker for house to see if you tripped fuse. Then with stove still unplugged remove back access panel, look to area where light goes into oven. Check again and make sure oven is unplugged, then repair the wire by splicing wire with new wire line splice purchased at your nearest local auto parts store, sales person can show how to install. THEN plug in to see if you can see the light!
Joe Don

What you want to check or have checked is if the wiring on the new igniter was accidently not properly insulated and some or the wiring is bare and touching metel shorting the breaker each time the oven is turned on.

Hi,
If your electric oven is taking too long to heat or just not heating up right,then check out this tip that will give more detail about your problem.

Oven Problems Electric Oven is Heating Slowly or Poorly

heatman101

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. Error F3 in your range/oven means oven temperature sensor circuit failure. To resolve this issue you’ll have to check the oven temp. sensor circuit if the reading is more then 1100ohms then it should be replaced. Please do rate the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

Possible blown fuse in stove, or if auto clock installed, may have to be reset

I have an electric oven that is turning on but not heating up. The oven, broiler, & stove top are not heating up. Any easy solutions to this?

We had this same problem in our lower oven and found the solution the night before Thanksgiving. With 26 people coming for dinner, I desperately need both ovens. (Turn off the breaker for the oven before you do this.)

My husband took the control panel off of the upper oven and found a wiring diagram. In the text, it said there was a manual reset for each oven in the access panel for each one. He opened the access panel for the lower oven and found the reset button in the middle of that area. He said it was a black circle with a red button in the middle. After reseting, we turned the breaker back on and everything works great!!

CW, the problem with your oven is the igniter. The igniter is wired in series with a safety valve. The safety valve monitors the amount of electrical current flowing through the igniter when you ask it to "bake".  When the igniter gets "weak" it won't allow current to flow through it properly, this will keep the oven from heating.

Before you begin the repair, you should have the new part on hand. The part number is WB2X9154 and can be purchased at your local appliance parts retailer for about $50.00. Here's one online for $65.00.

First, UNPLUG YOUR OVEN!

To replace it... Remove the racks and lower panel (oven floor). This will expose the burner manifold where the igniter is mounted.  (It's the round thing on the manifold near the back... it has 2 wires going into it.) You'll need a 1/4" socket or nut driver to remove it.

(*TIP---> before removing the screws from the igniter, put a few drops of liquid dish soap on the threads to lubricate them. If you do this, you will not strip the threads of the screws and it will ease their removal.)

The new igniter kit will have two ceramic wire nuts in it. Cut the two wires off of the old igniter and strip them back about 3/8". Then connect the wires of your new one to the wires in the oven using the ceramic wire nuts provided. Then mount the new igniter and rebuild the oven.

(*TIP---> The new igniter is very fragile! [that's why it came wrapped tightly in bubble wrap] Handle it gently!)

There ya go! Total job time? ~45 minutes.

click this link for warnings http://www.lieffcabraser.com/profileovencomplaints.htm