What's the name of the part a spark plug sits in

letting a vehicle sit idle for months is not good !!! now you need to do some work, so get out your check book ! replace both air & fuel filters, replace spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap & rotor, add fresh fuel & fuel injector cleaner to tank @ same time. why are you going from accessory to run, that doesn't make any sense, stop it, please ! now get to work, good luck !

I would have installed new spark plugs,all new coils
& mailed away the injectors to be ultra sonic cleaned
while the motor was out.

I wouldn't do compression,do cylinder leak down test
before, you ever install any motor, to check it's mechanical
condition

Replace front or upstream O2 Sensors, as I assume they
have over 100,000 miles on them

Check fuel pressure & use professional scan tool software
to look at ALL data

The spark plug is screwed into the cylinder head. Spark plug is #5 in picture below, coil pack is #1

CK. & see if your getting fuel also ck. & see if you have spark to the spark plugs. If you don't know how repost &i'll explain

Suggest start w/ the basics : Air, Fuel, & Spark. Internet search indicates that it's a Briggs & Stratton engine, which I just worked on yesterday (165 cc version). Easiest things first - ensure that there is FRESH fuel in the tank. If it's been sitting there all year, drain it out and refill with new fuel. (make sure you follow mfgr's recommended fuel type.) If you have a primer pump, make sure you can hear fuel flowing when you depress it (typically 3 - 6 pushes to prime the engine). If not, then youi may have a fuel line or fuel filter clogged. If you remove cowling/covering over top of engin, you can get access to the air cleaner. Remove the air cleaner/filter, and you can see into the carbuerator. This should make it easy to see if the primer pump is squirting fuel when depressed. While the air filter is out, make sure it is clean. If gunked up, I usually soak it and wring it out in fresh fuel, then let it air dry to clean it out (mine is made of foam). If it's a cartridge type air filter, blow it out w/ compressed air, or put a new one in if it's dirty. Lastly, if you have an assistant, you can check to see if you're getting a spark. Remove the spark plug, inspect if for correct gap and overall condition - remedy if you see something wrong. Then with it out, connect the spark plug cable (the high voltage line) to the top of the plug. Now, while touching the threaded part of the spark plug to a bare metal part of the engine case or lawnmower chassis, have your helper pull the starter cord and look at the plug's gap for a series of sparks.

If you don't see any sparks jumping the spark plug gap, you may have a bad plug, bad cable, too big a gap, or a bad magneto, or corroded connection to the top of the plug.

If you don't have fuel flow, you may have a clogged fuel line or fuel filter.

Air flow is pretty basic, so with the air cleaner removed, it should be pretty obvious if you have an airflow restriction. You can leave off the air cleaner/filter to troubleshoot the engine and to start it, just don't operate the mower without it, or you risk sucking in junk, rocks, you name it, into your engine.

THis may go without saying, but also inspect all linkages, springs, cables, etc. IF you see something loose or broken, check the owners manual or diagrams and remedy that. Also check out the Troubleshooting section in the owner's maual (available on-line at Husqvarna)

My problem yesterday was very simply BAD, OLD GAS. Briggs & Stratton make a pretty reliable, easy to start lawnmower engine. But even that's not enough if you're feeding it bad or contaminated gas.

Have you ever heard of testing before replacing parts ? Fuel pressure an flow tesing , testing the electrical circuit for the fuel pump , amp draw testing , voltage drop testing etc... Thier are no magical fixes in auto repair . No spark ! check B+ voltage an ground circuits for the ignition system , Ignition System Designs Operation and Testing an SD Premium video

Try a little starting fluid in the intake (not too much, just enough to test). If it takes off for a second or so, may be water in gas. Ten months old? It should be alright, unless it's loaded with water.

Probably dead gas from sitting too long. Dump it out & put in fresh gas.Could have moisture in it. Pull out spark plug & crank it over several times after putting gas & let it sit a while to dry out or blow it out with compressed air. It should go.

G'day.
I can't solve this(there are litaraly hundreds of things it could be) BUT I can give you a way to narrow it down a bit.
I'm thinking it may not be running on all cylinders and an easy way to check is to start the bike from cold(do this test in the first few seconds after starting from cold DONT BURN YOURELF),put a bit of spit on your fingers and quickly touch each exhaust header in turn, to see that they are all warming up equally together.This will narrow down if your problem is related to one or more cylinders.
If one or more of the pipes is cold/er than the others then you know which cylinders are causing the problem.
If you find that this is the case- one or more of the headers are cold then.
Remove the spark plugs-Keep in order.Examine the plugs-used plugs tell a story.How do they look?clean?black & sooty?Are they all the same colour?
Re-fit plugs to caps,sit plugs on metal of rocker cover,press starter - cheack for spark on all plugs.DO NOT HOLD OR TOUCH PLUG/CAPS WHILST CRANKING-WARNING - HIGH VOLTAGE- CAN KILL.
I can also suggest a few common problems that bothered the v-stars/viragos.
They were notorious for open circuiting their spark plug caps on either cylinder.Having the coils tested will confirm this. If you have a multi meter let me know & i'll guide you through testing them.

Air leaking at the inlet manifolds-where they bolt to the cylinder-test this by spraying with wd type spray with engine running-if engine revs change-has air leaks(sucking in wd & affecting mixture.)
They even pop the carbies out at the front some times & **** air there.
The inlet manifolds also have hoses & plugs on them(for checking the carbie balance/vacume fuel tap)Check all these for splits & tears-common depending on the condition of the bike/milage/fuel used.
This will not solve your problem but may help you to isolate where your issue lies.


I hope this is somewhat helpful & I'm happy to help if you need after following these suggestions
Kind regards Andrew Porrelli











I hope that this is in some way helpfull.

The ing also has to work well it easyer to check coil ohm it w/ meter primary & secondary.... I have found good help at harleytalking.com they have helped me... good luck ';';'