Kenmore Standup Deep Freezer thaws randomly and doesn't freeze food on bottom

SOURCE: ice on back wall but not freezing food and rattle noise. Moved all food to other freezer

This is a fairly common problem with these types of refrigerators. The design is set to defrost every 12 hours and be down for 1 hour to allow ice to melt on coils. More often than not the ice never fully melts and creates a blockage in the coils and in turn slows air flow. You can remove the screws in the back wall of freezer unit and unsnap the ice maker plug to allow access to the coil. Gently tilt the back plate forward. You can then unplug the ref. and help it thaw with a blow drier. If you are not comfortable removing the back plate then you can just unplug the ref. and let it thaw on its own. this may take a while. try to remove as much ice as you can from the back of the freezer wall by hand and prop the door open for a couple of hours to ensure that all the ice melts. The rattling sound you are hearing is the fan blades hitting the ice that is built up around it. As a precaution I recommend that these type of refrigerators get manual defrost simply by unplugging about once a month for about two (2) hours. I hope that this will help you out with the melted ice cream. Good luck.

SOURCE: /gss22wgpjbb Ge side by side fridge Keeps freezing

automatic defrost its not coming on check the heather or hi limit

John Tripp

• 4656 Answers
• Posted on Jul 23, 2009

SOURCE: M# 596.72219200 Kenmore with bottom drawer refrig keeps freezing

That is a broken thermostat control part number 67003000 when they stop they can break while on or off. Sea Breeze
PART NUMBER AND MODEL SEARCH FEATURE

SOURCE: Freezer on GE mini fridge not working

change the thermostat

SOURCE: Whirlpool gladiator garage freezer/refrigerator (top)

Remove the back liner and wall (more details on this below if you need them) to expose the iced up drain line (only 1) on the right side center inside the aluminum drain pan (Directly behind the bottom right side vent that goes into the freezer compartment). Thaw it out so that it will allow water to drain off (slow way -turn off unit for hours, not quite so slow - spoon in hot water - use towels to keep as much of the water from running into the lower freezer) When the drain is clear and water is draining freely, take light qauge copper wire (t-stat or low volt) and feed it down the drain approx 3 - 4 feet and then wrap the end of it tightly around the heavy defrost bar located just above the the drain hole (this bar resembles an oven element or dishwasher heater element and circles the entire freezer coil). Put several tight wraps on it. This will transfer some of the heat from the defrost cycle down into the drain line and hopefully solve your problem. If the coils are totally iced up you may have a defrost cycle problem and if so this solution won't work) reinstall all liners and wiring and you're done
removing the back wall (if you are unsure) take of plate located at upper left side of the back wall (2 short screws) to expose the wire harness- separate the main connectors) remove the 6 fasteners attaching the back metal liner wall (4 long & 2 short - the short ones go to outside lower holes) . and remove the bottom plastic liner tray (just lifts out) and the short plastic base wall at the back bottom of the compartment ( it may be iced in and hard to remove- be careful) remove the stryofoam insulating liner. Again it may be iced in and frozen to the unit so be careful and if necessary use warm water to thaw it out. This will expose the inner liner wall and the lower drain pan and line. If you see that the bottom of the coils are iced up you may want to remove the inner liner and defrost the coils but this it not usually the case and you can leave it in place. Again, if the coils are totally iced up you may have a defrost cycle problem and if so this solution won't work)