I have a Maytag front loading washing machine (model number MAH2400AWW). When the unit is started it will run normally for part of the cycle, then stop and show an error code of 3E. I called Maytag Customer Support, and they could not give me the meaning of this error code. I would appreciate anyone who is familiar with this error code to forward the information.
This worked for me for the E3 error code: Turn the machine off and then on. Enter the Service Mode by pressing the Chime and Exrta Rinse keys for 3 sec. Display the Diagnostic Codes by pressing the Rinse and Spin key. Clear the codes by pressing the Delay and Chime keys for 3 sec. Turn the machine off, unplug and plug in the power cord. This dumps the memory. Evidently, if it gets full, it causes problems with the programming and messes up the cycles.
I had this same problem on my 3 1/2 year old machine and was about lose my cool if I had to spend $$ on a new motor or control board. I called an appliance technician who was nice enough to say that 80% of the time, all you have to do is shut off the breaker for about 30 minutes and turn it back on. I had already tried unplugging and plugging back in a few times, but never for more than a minute did I have it unplugged. My breaker is hard to get at, so I just unplugged the power strip that the washer was plugged into for a half-hour and, like magic, it's been working fine since I plugged it back in! Saved me the $79 the tech was going to charge to diagnose the problem. I would've been fuming if I paid someone any money to unplug and plug it in!
3E has something to do with the motor control. Apparently the design of this machine allows a water leak either from the water intake box or down a rubber hose which runs along with the motor wire harness. The water tracks to the harness and motor and shorts the whole mess out. a.k.a. fried motor.
pull the back plate off (3 screws) and look at the motor where the wire harness plugs into it. Notice a bunch of green stuff- that is corrosion from the electrical short circuit causing your problem. See the rust build up on the side rail below the motor (as there will be none on the side adjacent) this is indicative of a water leak.
Our machine started doing this within the first week and we had the "service" people come out and "fix" it, but it appeared they did nothing. When I opened the machine up I discovered the problem when I ohmed out the rotor contacts in the motor wire harness and found it to be open instead of the factory specs of appx 2.5 ohms.
Maytag (now Whirlpool) does not want to send me a new motor and harness because of their bad design. The machine is a sealed unit only 23 months old. Note to all...do not buy Maytag or Whirlpool. That Maytag repair man is sitting on his bum because the company does not care about their consumers and their cheaply made products (sold at high markups).
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Try changing the main control board with a swap from your friendly neighborhood service repairman who will loan you the board for a cookie and coffee
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We have the same problem, the machine goes, slowly, for a bit then flashes 3E. Has anyone found a solution, self fix or repairman?
Thanks
We have the same problem, error code 3E, same symptons and same results calling Maytag for help. They said the error code does not exist but if you go to http://acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/was... you will find a relatively informative schematic of the washer, including this error code. The control board seems to be the most likely cause. I certainly will not buy Maytag again as we have had nothing but problems since the first day we owned it, some 2 1/2 years ago.
i have same problem with the E3,tried the diagnostics,still doesnt work. This is 3rd time the washer has not worked in the 18months we had it...total piece of ****
there are not solutions in the manual for this
dishwasher fills then runs for a few seconds ten stops
Defective door latch.
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