I have a burn out bridge rectifier in a Eaton 5115 ups an i am trying to repair it but the top is all burned out all i have left is the # 334v cant any one tell what is the rest of the code for this b

UPS require constant power. Meaning they provide minimal (time)
power to save work and shut shut down properly. The generator would have to run 24/7.

http://www.chpower.com/IMAGES/pdfs/manual08/212800_0799.pdf

T1 or T2 may be in the early stages of failure from shorting out. If you are getting a burned varnish smell that persists around the welder, that is the likely cause. Check open circuit voltage, it should measure around 24 volts. If you only measure 12 volts, the bridge has failed.

Otherwise, open it up and check all connections to make they are sound. There is a protective device on the bridge rectifier across the terminals to the ground clamp and gun. This device may be failing in a short circuit mode. Or the bridge rectifier may be failing.

In the event it is the bridge that failed, a workaround is to construct or provide a 24 volt supply to the motor speed control, move the AC connections one to the "+" and one ot the minus terminal thus bypassing the bridge rectifier completely, and use the welder as an AC welder. Or alternately a new one can be constructed from 4 high current rectifiers.

Not sure exactly what the problem is here without more of a description. The product page for the 5115 UPS is here: http://powerquality.eaton.com/Products-services/Backup-Power-UPS/5115.aspx?cx=3
You can contact Eaton for support:

Toll Free: 1 800 356 5737
E-mail: [email protected]

Check the capacitors in the input bridge.

check input circuit. trace bridge rectifier circuit.. make sure its good.. check tranformer or line filter.

Fuse is probably burning as a precaution because there is a problem in the input section.. either ac side or after bridge

Depending on how old the UPS is, it may have dead batteries. To get the user manual, go to eaton.com/5115. You can also call 1 800 356 5737 or email [email protected]

get all components from (rs components).take fuses down there and there let u know the right ones.

pulling to many amps,diodes could not handle amps so they failed.unit should have kicked its breaker before the diodes burned out.most units have their own breaker to protect the system.I would replace the control board first see how unit reacts,probly fine,if not the you go to next step.

The rectifier is a flat plate with 4 posts that attach the electric wiring inside. You will need a flathead screwdriver to remove the four screws holding down the cover on your mower. on top where all the wires run (you will probably see one burned) There is a screw in the middle holding down the plate, you will need to replace the plate and resplice the wires that may be burned.

The most likely cause of a burned up motor is jammed up wire or wire tention too tight. You can find the rectifier in the manual that came with it. If the rectifier is bad a simple test (fluke meter)would tell .