Color bleeds adjusted it many times but keeps changing back what replacent part do i need

Clutch squeal is commonly caused by the Throw Out bearing or the clutch release mechanism. When the clutch was replaced was the throwout bearing changed as well?
Some (but not all) clutch release setups need to be adjusted back to allow for the new thickness of the clutch plate. This will either be on a 'self adjuster' on the pedal, a slack adjuster on a cable operated clutch or possibly a need to 'bleed' a hydraulic system.
If adjusting doesn't solve the problem it is possibly an issue with an actual clutch part.

Bleed both sides of the rear brake circuit. My opinion is if you're replacing one side of the brakes, they should both be done as both have been in service for the same amount of time. If the brake pedal wants to bounce back at you and/or feels spongy, it's an indication that air is still present in the system. I would completely change the brake fluid in the system (siphon the old fluid out of the reservoir before filling and bleeding to save time). Check the handbrake adjustment as well.

Pressing by disc brake caliper cylinder by hand unlikely, improbable. Using 10" jaw opening adjustable pliers with 12"~16" handles, with brake pads removed should be able to align a large socket inside the plunger cup and then using the large adjustable pliers, squeeze back very slowly just enough to install new disc pads. Forcing the cylinder cup to its fully retracted position not necessarily a good ideal unless you have some express need or purpose to do so as it will overflow your brake fluid reservoir. So be prepared with a clean new "turkey baster" and a clean jar to suction out of the reservoir of sufficient brake fluid to make room for the fluid you are forcing back to the reservoir. Since the cylinder sets in a rubber collar, very unlikely its rusted "frozen" in position. It is possible for the rubber collar to either deteriorate or be damaged, so look carefully at what you can see of the rubber collar with a magnifying glass, looking for any micro-cracks or signs of rubber dry-rot - - if found, replace, your life may depend upon it.

When finished installing new caliper pads with brake grease properly installed at points of metal to metal movement and retainer bolts properly torqued, and brake fluid reservoir properly filled, your first press of the brake may go all the way to the floor and you may need to pump the brakes several times to fully expand the caliper that you pressed backwards to its proper position. That may require refilling the brake fluid reservoir several times. If after pumping the brakes and getting a solid petal, it may be necessary to drive the vehicle backwards stomping on the brakes several times to set the rear brake shoe adjusters and raise the height of your brake pedal. If after replacing the calipers and adjusting you still have a spongy petal, it may be necessary to bleed air out of the brake lines for which there is an air bleed valve on each brake cylinder. Air bleed easiest accomplished with 2 people though devices are made for one person air bleeding. During air bleeding, the brake petal is slowly depressed and the air bleed valve momentarily opened. The end of the air bleed hose needs to be in brake fluid in a jar so that ejected brake fluid is captured and air cannot return. Using a clear air bleed hose lets you see when a solid flow without bubbles is released, then you have a good air bleed and can retighten the valve. You will need to refill the brake fluid reservoir several times during the air bleeding procedure. All four wheel cylinders must be air bled if any one or more brake cylinder opened or replaced. Any sign of a "wet" looking brake line or cylinder is a good reason to replace it even if you cannot identify the exact leak source.

it sounds like there is still air in the brake system that has not been removed.you don`t say if you replaced the brake pads and shoes(in which case you shouldn`t need to bleed)or you replaced a brake line(s) or wheel cylinder or caliper.you will have to keep bleeding the brakes all 4 wheels(trucks don`t use bi-directional braking meaning right rear brakes with left front and so on).bleed both rear brakes then bleed both front brakes,was this problem there before you replaced the brakes(soft pedal noticed) and this is why you changed the brakes or the pedal was soft and the brakes needed changing.its possible that the master cylinder has an internal leak and may need replacing.

you need to adjust the brakes... there is an adjustment rod that sometimes you can reach by taking out a rubber piece at the back of the drum assembly... you want to adjust it out a little at a time and then with the drum on turn it until you feel slight resistance from the brakes... when you get to that point adjust it back a partial turn and you should be good to go.... its time consuming but once you do that to both sides your problem should be solved...

This problems adjustment well not work.Ur tv have a problems known as convergence problems,and it dead.The tv convergence board must have it 2 STK convergence ICS,and some or all it resistors, must be change.The shop will cost u $300-350 for parts and labors.

ok there are a few things you need to check.. you said you changed the master cylinder.. did you bleed the braking system after???

• remove from wheel,,
• locate bleed valve on caliper / or unscrew one of the lines
• pump brake and push right down and hole,,
  
• repeat plugging the lines with your finger ,,
• repeat the above 2 steps a few times
• tighten the bleed screw while holding the brake right down..

if that fails ...

if that fails try adjusting the brake up.. its on the rear tires,, remove one and them remove the shield protecting the brake shoe,, see the turn bolt that adjust the pistons,, adjust that a bit until the brake is in the desired position..

check your disc pads to see if its wron out..

check your booster / change it..

i have 3 hannspree monitors 2 were sent back for repair i replacement was faulty when i got it back the other one changes flashing colours never again i tried turning the brightness to full which helped for a time

Hi rkoontz!

ABSOLUTELY! Have you bled the brake lines since the replacement? If not, bleed the fronts first, with a helper pumping the pedal repeatedly to build pressure, then hold the pedal firmly down while you open the bleeder valve on each front wheel to release captured air mixed with fluid. A section of clear tubing sized to snugly fit over the bleeder valve nipple will allow you to see the air bubbles being released, and will show you when you are getting the bubble-free stream of fluid that you want.
***IMPORTANT*** DO NOT LET UP ON PEDAL until the bleeder valve has been closed --- otherwie air will be sucked back into the system through the bleeder valve if the pedal is released while the bleeder is open... Start on the side where you replaced the front line... make sure the reservoir does not run low on fluid, or you'll end up pumping air back into the lines. Bleed each side twice, alternating sides. You should start getting pedal (i.e.: pedal quits going all the way to floor.) after this. Now go to the rears. Start at the block where the long line from the master cylinder to the rears splits into left and right. With the pedal pumped up and held firmly down, loosen the long line fitting at this block enough to allow fluid and air to escape. Keep repeating until you get steady fluid with no air at the block and then move on to the wheel bleeders, doing each side twice, like the fronts. You should have good solid pedal by now, provided the brakes are close to proper adjustment. The rears are self-adjusting, and (provided the self-adjusters are working properly) you induce self-adjustment by reversing to moderate speed and then firmly braking. Repeat as necessary until the pedal comes up to normal height. If the self-adjusters have failed, you can adjust the shoes the old fashioned way, levering the starwheels behind the backing plates with a brake adjuster tool. ALWAYS keep an eye on the fluid reservoir, and ALWAYS replace the reservoir cover after each top-off (eliminates brake fluid baths of the engine compartment). For good measure, bleed each wheel one more time, top off the reservoir, and you're done!!!

If you cannot get pedal after doing the above, you probably need a replacement master cylinder.

Hope this helps you solve your problem, and do not hesitate to ask if you have further questions or wish to post a comment. And please be so kind as to rate my assitance!

Good luck!
-WildBill

Sounds like the same problem i had recently, Take the front off, (its safe so your ok) You will see the 3 lenses which are ajustable, Just keep adjusting 1mm at a time until it solves this, Took me about 45 mins to get it perfect, Persist and you will get there!! Hope this helps