Placed front thermal fuse and the thermal cut-off. dryer worked for three loads of laundry and died again. When checking these two pieces this morning they are blown out again. I noticed dryer was getting a little hot than normal which I thought was because I cleaned out the huge lint build up. Is the high limit thermostat causing this issue because the dryer was so hot. Is this unit not cutting off the temp. which is blowing my fuses?
Having an error code on your appliance can be an inconvenience and I know how important it is to have a good working dryer. The "F25" indicates the INLET THERMISTOR is shorted or the INLET THERMISTOR circuit is shorted. If you replaced the inlet thermistor and control board then it may have bad inlet thermistor circuit. You should disconnect the thermistor circuit connections at the thermistor and control board and test the thermistor circuit for continuity. Check the circuit to see it happens to be open or shorted with an ohm meter. The inlet thermistor is located on the side of the heating element housing is a thermistor and high limit combination. The part number is 8557403. The inlet thermistor portion of the thermistor/high limit will have two solid red wires connected to it. It could have faulty new thermistor or it could have an open or shorted thermistor circuit or a faulty control board. The thermistor can be checked with and ohm meter. Disconnect the two red wires and place the ohm meter leads across the two terminals. At room temperature it should measure approximately 50k ohms of resistance. If it measures 50 k, then it should be reconnected and then the sensor circuit disconnected from the control board and retested at the harness wires to see if you get the same measurement reading. If it does measure the same, and it continues to display F25, it could have a faulty control board. What is your model number?
SOURCE: Roper household dryer not heating
you can unhook themal cut out or themostates hook the two wires together tape or make sure they dont touch anything and test dryer.. if heat comes on thats the problem
SOURCE: My dryer won'y blow hot air
Bob, I did not lie, I just checked the heating element orginally with an Olm meter while the element was still installed in the dryer. After more reading on the internet and testing I decide to remove the heating element and noticed it had the short.
SOURCE: no heat
vpflueger,
Hi,
I am not sure why.
But I will tell you that at only 5 years old you should repair it.
This is a fine machine!
Try our premium service and they will fix you up!
SOURCE: Thermal cut-off blows and high limit thermostat is
in this case we put the lower temp thermostat in the oven at 170 degrees till it was hot and measured with ohm meter and it was open. After it cooled down some it went back to being a short. Now with this part in the dryer and the new high temp thermostat
and it blew shortly after being turned on. A possiblity is that there is a short by passing the 150 degree thermostat and the element keeps being on and causes the 350 degree thermostate to blow.
SOURCE: 41799980100 Kenmore Laundry Center dryer themal fuse blows
you need to clean out the dryer.the thermal fuse is a safety switch so you don't have a fire when the dryer is running to hot.blow out the vent line with a leaf blower,unplug the dryer and make sure the outside vent is clear.next you need to clean out the duct that the lint filter slides into and vac out the inside of dryer where the motor is,do this once a year,your clothes will dry on time,no fires and you'll save on parts.let me know how you make out
1,027 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×