Microvent is coming loose on the bottom of mounting.

it should lift out once you it tilted. page 5 this not your exact model, but they are mounted the same way
https://documents.designerappliances.com/Installation-Instructions-JXA019K.pdf

This is usually caused by either a bad door switch, a loose door switch mount (which are pretty simple problems to fix) or occasionally a problem on the control panel.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.

Door switch or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

If the switch mount is broken, it's usually more economical and safer to add a dab or two of hot glue to the mount to secure the switch. Let it cool for about 30 minutes before using.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.



At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

If you only need a switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.

If you think the problem is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in most cases in about a week or so with a one-year guarantee.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

I just pulled my ge spacemaker xl1800 out. The mounting plate installs on the wall and two 4-6 inch bolts go through the cabinet above and into the top-front of the unit. The two top mounting holes are about 8 1/2 in. from the back of the unit and about 1 1/4 in from the side. If you don't have the mounting bracket that comes with the unit, you will have to use a 2x4 or similar to support the back & bottom of the unit.

We put false doors on the back of the peninsula, mounted the wall mounts on the inside of these doors and then connected it to the top.

This is usually caused by either a bad door switch or a loose door switch mount, which are pretty simple problems to fix.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.

Door switch or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:.

If you only need a switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Sadly, we hear of this over and over.

This is due to a defective or loose magnetron causing electrical interference and disruption in the control circuit board.

If your magnetron was recently replaced, it may have loose mounting nuts or bolts or maybe the wire mesh RF gasket was not installed or got pinched.

It may also need a new high-voltage diode and stirrer, and the cavity may be affected.

Details are in their bulletin here. Even if your model is not on the list, the same problem can occur, requiring a kit.

If it's within the magnetron portion of the warranty (usually 5-9 years) but out of the original full warranty (usually 1 year), then your manufacturer will cover the part cost, but not the cost to visit you or the labor charge to do the work.

They may send you a replacement magnetron. GE Customer Service is here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Sadly, we hear of this over and over.

This is usually due to a defective or loose magnetron causing electrical interference and disruption in the control circuit board.

If your magnetron was recently replaced, it may have loose mounting nuts or bolts or maybe the wire mesh RF gasket was not installed or got pinched.

It may also need a new high-voltage diode and stirrer, and the cavity may be affected.

GE had a campaign (but not a recall, mind you!) covering several models.

Details are in their bulletin at http://207.234.249.73/mwd/ge_mw_mag_kit_bulletin.pdf

Even if your model is not on the list, the same problem can occur, requiring a kit. I just think the difference is that GE has stopped paying for the repairs.

The parts kit (that GE used to pay for) is part # WB27X10489 and is shown here: http://207.234.249.73/mwd/wb27x10489_ge_mag_stir_kit.jpg

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel, which is very helpful when troubleshooting.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

You may be looking for this flat head 1/4 x 28 threaded bolt that is about 4" long. The tip of the bolt does not have threads, which aids in locating the threaded holes in the top of the microwave:

GE # WB01X10180 (or AP3205964 or 942461 as listed on some repair parts sites)

or a set of three

GE # WB01X10125 (or AP3185225 or 910236 as listed on some repair parts sites)

Try this URL:
http://products.geappliances.com/MarketingObjectRetrieval/Dispatcher?RequestType=PDF&Name=003670536.PDF

Its not exact to this model, but gives enough pointers to assist. Good luck!

This is probably due to a defective or possibly loose magnetron.

If yours has loose mounting nuts / bolts or the wire mesh RF gasket was not installed or got pinched, that can also cause
this RF leakage interference inside the oven.

It may also need a new high-voltage diode and stirrer, and the cavity may be affected.

GE had a campaign (but not a recall!) covering several models.

Details are in their bulletin at http://207.234.249.73/mwd/ge_mw_mag_kit_bulletin.pdf

If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety and disassemblyat our site,
linked here on Fixya: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383