No heat output - Hotpoint NVL333EY Electric Dryer

The possible fault could be due to the failure of the heating coil, failure of the control panel or the output drive to the heating coil or it can be one of a loose connection joint of the wiring to the heating coil. You need to recheck the selected program and then check the wiring to the coil. It is important to understand the working of a continuity tester to check the line and the coil which should address the fault. If there is no output from the board then it might be fault of the drive output or the loss of output from the processor which might need tracing of the voltage to the heating coil output. .

Hi gordog239,
This symptoms indicated that your sound output IC was already shorted. It heats up while on operation but the heat depends upon the volume and the load speakers(normal operation). If the unit gone to excessive heat even the volume is set to min, this was a clear indication that the fault came from the output IC (mounted in the heat sink. You may confirm it by opening the cover of the unit and touch the heat sink.
Once confirmed that the heat sink gone to excessive heat, replace the output IC and all electrolytic capacitor around this section, this will solve the issue.
Let me know if you need further assistance.
Hope I helped you.
Have a nice day!
Thanks for using Fixya

The output transistors are over heating. Check the mounting surface to its' heat sink fins. Make sure the silicone heat compound is not dried out. Scrape the old coat then re-apply new coat if dry - should be somewhat sticky to the touch. Also, you can use an external fan to circulate the air inside. Check your speaker connections - do not parallel the speakers (having two or more connected on an output speaker terminal). This will force the amp to generate more current and cause it to heat faster. Then check the impedance of the speakers you're using - do not connect a 4 ohm speaker on an 8 ohm output terminal.

no could be a blower motor problem

Output switch is the one that says Cool-Off-Heat. Turn this offwhen you aren't home.
Output control is the thermostat. If you want to heat the room turn up the thermostat to the desired heat after putting the output switch on heat. It will take a few minutes for the heater to get hot. Early boost would be if you want immediate higher blower speed to speed up keep the heated air from being too hot and late boost will hold off the fan until the heater is higher in temp and the air temp discharged will be hotter.

Are you referring a to an electric furnace providing the heat, the heat pump providing the heat, a heat pump providing heat usually with an auxillary/emergency electric heating unit, or an air conditioner with an electric furnace attached? If your system normally uses a heat pump for the heat normally, there is an eletric auxilliary heater. You'll probably need to turn it on at the thermostat manually when the outside temp gets below 40 degrees. If you have it nice system, it might do it automatically. If you're referring to the electric heater being rated 8 kw, it'll run using 8kw when you turn it on. It doesn't have the ability to change what heat rating it is. If you're refurring to the heat pump system being rated 8kw, you're probably mistaken. A heat pump might possibly consume 8kw to run the system but that can't be a measure of the system's capacity. Heat pump measurement units are rated in tons, but the system will always run at the same ton capacity whenever it's on, provided it doesn't need any maintenance. Some commercial air conditioning and heating systems have to ability to modify their power output based on the outside temperature, but I doubt you're dealing with that kind of thing.

I have one of these heaters as well. The input/output dials are thermostats.

The higher the input dial is set, the more power the heater draws during its charge cycle (ie the "on" period that is set on your time panel). Which means a higher daily ration of heat, and a bigger power bill.

The higher the output dial is set, the more quickly the heater lets the stored heat out. So the highest setting would give you most of your daily ration of heat during the "on" period but less heat for the "off period... while the lowest setting would give you a relatively constant heat output throughout the day.

It sounds like the space is too large for the BTU capacity output of the unit.

Did the unit ever heat the space?

Have you measured the temperature of the incoming air, vs the discharged air?

And finally, based on the Model number in the heading of this thread, this unit is cooling only, no heating (it's not a heat pump).

The output setting if turned off isn't adjusting the temperature in the room automatically if its off,and by turning the output up is like turning up the heat.By turning the output switch on you can let the heater automatically control the heat.Still you need to monitor the adjustments to your liking and then you know how hot it will be when you come back into that room.

¿ Oil heaters do not generate wattage. On the name plate for the unit it may give you an AMP draw. Multiply Amps times Volts to get wattage use when in operation.