Can we leave the wooden pallet on the bottom of freezer?

CALL Chas&Son,s at 570-379-0993 and they will come out the same day no less okay

try to replace the Styrofoam cup then put on the top.. if the same happens.or it will be frozen it means styrofaom is .................................. then use another...

That is the overload protector on the compressor. Keep the door closed to preserve the cooling you have from the frozen food. Leave it unplugged for about an hour. Bang on the compressor with a rubber or wooden hammer then plug it back in. If it does not start you either need a new start relay or a compressor.

Hello, this sounds like you have a blockage in the drain tube, remove bottom shelf from fridge and remove the styrofoam..you may see ice build up...melt ice with hair dryer/heat gun...you will see a pan below evaporator...melt ice in pan...dry water up in pan with paper towel...now you should see a hole in pan that leads to drain tube...pour some hot water in pan..wait a couple minutes..mop up water and repeat this step 2-3 times....once you have done this find some flexible curatain wire or electrical wire..poke down the hole until you see the water drain..now it is clear..put back panel back and you are good to go. The reason you see water in the Freezer is because the water has been leaking into the freezer instead of running into the drain hole...Please feel free to comment again if you need any further assistance. Mike

The drain is clogged behind the wall in the freezer you can do one of three things take the back wall inside the freezer off and thaw the drain in the bottom and clear it out,Pay someone else to do this,or you can mover your food for a day unplug the unit open the freezer door and leave it off for 24 hours allowing the ice to clear from the drain,seems to happen about every five or six years with Maytags..

There is a relay and protector, these are where the wires attach to the compressor,or rather how the power wires attach to the compressor.You can purchase a 3n1 start kit which has the instructions with it. Be sure to unplug the freezer before touching the wires or attempting to install replacement parts.

There is normally a small filiament of metal which is attached to the defrost element and conducts heat down the drainpipe preventing ice build up. You can pour some boiling water onto this area and even wriggle a piece of plastic tubing down the drain pipe to dislodge any blockage. For future prevention, you can attach a piece of copper wire around the defrost element (in the absence of the original filiament) and extend it down the drainpiple

try leaving it uplugged for at least 6 hours after it has been moved in order for the oil and gas to seperate and settle. Then it should work okay

If it is a frostless your drain tube is plugged. The water cannot go through the whole to the drip pan so it flows over into the freezer. Unplug the freezer and leave the door open all day to thaw. Or take the back wall out of the freezer and unthaw the drain tube with hot water and a hair dryer.

I know how frustrating it is to get freezer ice build-up and unknown annoying noises but I have a solution that works great. I figured this out since I got tired of taking the freezer apart 10 times in 5 years and searching for a never ending noise:

1. Pull out and unplug the refrigerator cord and take the lower back plate off (about a dozen screws) and you should see the plastic ½” drain tube hanging down and pointing at the plastic drain pan that is usually dry but stained. You will find out why it is that way as we go along. NO NEED TO TURN OFF THE WATER SUPPLY NOR DISCONNECT THE WATER LINE UNLESS YOU NEED THE EXTRA ROOM TO GET BACK THERE.
2. Take the shelf, freezer floor, ice maker and light assembly out of the freezer (about a dozen more screws). Mark the wires if you have to disconnect them so you know where they go. Get as much ICE out as you can and mop up the water with some old towels. If you use a scraper you will hurt the plastic, unless you have a plastic scraper or just hitting it with the palm of your hand will break it up nicer. Get everything as dry as you can. Be careful to defrost the Styrofoam inserts slowly until they lift out of their square holes (a hair dryer works wonderful for this). This whole job gets lots easier after you do it a couple of times, BELIEVE ME.
3. If you have a shopvac this part works better: Pull the end off of a shopvac hose (it will go back on later) and feed the plastic shopvac hose up over the plastic ½” drain tube in the back of the refrigerator. Don’t turn the shopvac on just yet.
4. Plug in a hair dryer and prop it up on a small mountain dry towels inside the freezer pointing at the 1/2” drain hole in the back under the coils (the hole is metal lined and in the middle of the metal tray in back, you’ll see it).
5. NOW, turn on the hair dryer and turn on the shopvac and wait about 10 minutes until the shopvac sucks the hot air down through the drain hole and melts the ice. Pour some water down there to clean it out a second time. You should feel the suction of the shopvac at the hole with your finger and it should be strong.
6. The ice clog is about 6 inches down the tube below the opening so it takes a while to thaw out. NOW you know why the drain pan that sits in the bottom of the refrigerator is always empty and just stained.
7. ANSWER: The heat from the freezer heater coil (during the defrost cycle) that is behind the cooling fins in the freezer can’t possibly heat up the drain tube so the water freezes solid. Then the heater coil melts the ice on the cooling coils and the water runs down through the openings in the square Styrofoam inserts (instead of down the drain) and right into the refrigerator where it puddles on the shelves.
8. I usually run some extra water down there and let the shopvac **** it in to give a good rinse.
9. Now put it all back together, BUT PUT THE STYROFOAM INSERTS BACK IN FIRST or you will be taking it back apart again to put them in. Pretty soon you will do the whole job of inside 1 hour on a weekend. The wires with the long piece of tape on them gets routed over the top of the cooling coils and tapes to the back wall above the fan, no biggy.

NOW FOR THE NOISE: Remember when you cleaned out the Condenser coils underneath years ago and thought you heard something? That was your vacuum extension wand hitting the fan. The blade is probably bent a little. With the power still off spin the blade with your finger and see if it wobbles and also check if there is anything on the blade or motor shaft that needs to be cleaned off, line string, pet hair or dust. You shouldn’t have to take anything apart to accomplish cleaning it, just unwind anything that got caught up in it. The blades can be bent back as long as you are careful.
THE OTHER THING I DID was screw in the front wheel levelers (behind the plastic vent cover under the refrigerator door) until the front was higher that the back. That way the water that accumulates in the freezer is sure to drain to the drain hole in the back and the 2 front doors close better on their own----AMAZING. Also the plastic drain pan sits up a little higher and doesn’t vibrate on the frame and make noise.