Philips 32PF7520D/10 I have a 32' philips which does not switch on. There are no lights present except for a green light inside the tv which constantly flashes. it was working perfectly fine this morning whilst playing music from my PS3. i went out and in the evening it would not switch on...any suggestions on what the problem could be and also the casue??

SOURCE: philips 32PT6441/37 32"

Install horiz driver kit # 483531057673 and replace 47mf/25v
capacitor in horiz drive circuit. Fix applies to all L04.01U chassis.....................................T.

SOURCE: Philips 42PF7220A/37 Red Light blinks 5 times in a row

I purchased a manual online and found my solution in it.
I have a Philips 42PF7220A/37 Plasma TV. The TV worked great one evening, I watched a movie and turned it off. The next morning when I turned it on, the TV didn't have a picture, the green power light came on and after a little while it went off and then I got the red flashing LED. 5 Flashes, then 2 seconds nothing and then it repeats. According to the manual this indicates that there is a severe hardware problem. Didn't sound good to me.
However, further in the manual it had some repair tips. I thought I'd give it a try.
It has to do with an audio DC protection (DC Voltage on the speakers) which cannot disappear.
The manual says you'll probably get error 12 blink???
The solution is; disconnect the cable between the SSB and the Audio PWB and also the cable between the Main Power Supply and the Audio PWB. In my case that disconnected every plug on the Audio PWB. On my TV the Audio PWB is located Top Right, it is a small board of about 6x3" I then Powered the TV and the TV initialized. I was then able to get the Menu via the remote. I then turned the TV off, connected the antenna and turned it back on. To my surprise it worked again. Picture and sound. Thank you very much, it probably saved me about $ 750.-
I don't quite understand how this could happen, except that the night before I muted the TV. After about 15 minutes or so the sound came back on, so I muted it again. After that I turned it off and you know the rest.

SOURCE: DVP642/37 Power light flashing constantly.....won't power on

This origional post has been up since June 2006. The answer(s) about the 1000mf capacitor are right on target and has helped people even up to today (Aug. 26, 2008). It worked for me and the following might help others.

First find the power supply board. It is the one with the power cord attached to one end (make sure you unplug all power first!). This power supply has about nine minature electrolytic capacitors in the output of the supply. There is a large electrolytic near the input (elecrtical cord). Disregard this one and go to the other end of the board. The 1000mf, 10volt component you are looking for is near the middle of the 9 or so capacitors on this end. It will probably be the largest in this group (because it has the highest electrolytic value of the group) and the board surface will have an I.D. number of C316 adjacent to it.

DO NOT ASSUME THAT THE CAPACITOR WILL HAVE ANY SIGN OF A BULDGE, DISCOLORATION, OR ANYTHING THAT WOULD IDENTIFY IT AS A FAILURE! In my case the replacement solved the problem but there was absolutely no signs on, or around the capacitor. After replacing it, I checked the old capacitor with a (ANALOG) multimeter. The test showed leakage across the capacitor. In other words it was still working but had a high resistance path through the capacitor. This is exactly what I expected because when I checked the output voltage of the supply to the other 2 boards, voltage was present but was reading about 1/2 of what it was supposed to. The markings on the front (output) edge of the board indicate a -24 volts between ground (pin 4) and pin 3. Mine was reading approximately -12 to -13 volts.

I hope this will help others. As a matter of interest, this is an electrolytic capacitor and you should notice that the component taken out is marked negative ( - ) near one lead. Be certain to install the new one with the negative lead in the same manner! Also, any replacement you might find with a higher voltage rating should be at least 16 volts but a 200 or 1000 volt rating will work fine. Although, the higher the rating, the larger it will physically be. You probably would not be able to physically install anything over 50volt rating. The 35volt rating seems to be very available and a very good choice. With regard to microfarad (mf) value, 1000mf are very common but a 1200mf to 1500mf in a power supply circuit will work fine. Do not use anything less than 1000mf. Hope this helps others. This is going to contiue for this Phillips product until they all die.

SOURCE: 42" philips plasma

when a television turns off by itself and flashes as you say, it indicates that there is a problem inside the tv. If you keep trying to turn it on you may do more damage. It could be something as simple as a faulty fuse inside. If you have no expierience with electrics I suggest you get it checked out by a professional. I had a similar problem with another tele model and it was the fuse in the back of the tele that needed changing. I did try to this on my own but unfortunatley didn't have the right fuse so i took it to a repair shop and he done it really quickly.

SOURCE: red light flashes

This is a well known and very common problem with all Philips plasma tvs 42 and 50 inch. The problem is they used under rated capacitors in the power supply. If you have electronics experience or a friend that is, remove the cover and look in the back for malformed or leaking capcitors. Replace them and see if that takes care of the problem. The caps only cost $2 or $3 each, so the cost to try this is pretty reasonable although you might have an added cost of buying beer for your electronics friend. If this does not fix your problem you are down to replacing boards that can be purchased around $300 ea.
I have found my set will come on "finally" after I get the back of the set warmed up and the bad caps finally charge up. Hope this is useful.