I can't figure out how to install this

The manual states that on-and-off blinking of load indicates the load is less than minimum.
Minimum load draw is .3 amps and 40 watts.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Lutron-MA-T51-T53-timer-manual.pdf

Generally a bath fan is 1/6 Hp or 3 amps... exceeding the minimum.
Manual indicates that wiring error can also cause on-off blinking.
MA T530 replace single pole switch,,, and either wire from switch can connect to either brass screw on timer.
This timer will not replace 3-way switch.

Defective product is also possible/ call Lutron 800-523-9466 day or night

Gene



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If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Intermatic makes heavy duty Ei400 series 1HP 120V or 240V countdown timer that can be wired for single-pole and 3-way.
Open following link to identify Ei400 timer and download manual:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Countdown-timer-horsepower-ratings.html#Ei

Coundownt timers are used to control fans and lights that need to run certain length of time, and then turn off. For example bathroom fan or whole house attic fan

Upvote the help.
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Link below has wiring diagrams and wiring manuals for 240V 8145-20
http://waterheatertimer.org/Paragon-timers-and-manuals.html#defrost

I am not expert installing defrost timers.
According to information from Paragon, 8145 is for hot gas defrosting. 8140 series are time initiated, and pressure-or-temperature terminated.
Wiring diagram does not show compressor wired to timer.

The cycle works like this:
Timer is running but defrost is not switched ON.
Fan is ON.
Timer switches ON and activates defrost cycle.
Fan turns OFF. Hot gas valve turns ON for defrosting.
Cycle limit switch is temperature or pressure sensitive.
Cycle limit switch reaches trip point, timer switches OFF.
Hot gas valve turns OFF. Fan turns ON.
So fan is off during defrost cycle.
Hot gas valve turns ON when timer switches ON.
Timer is switched OFF by pressure-or-temperature limit switch.

You connected red and white wires together.
No problem, nothing burned out, and it's simple to fix. Steps below.

RT1 is electronic countdown timer, and electronic timer clock inside needs separate circuit, just like your alarm clock needs to be plugged in. >> that's why timer has white wire. White wire completes circuit to timer clock.

Manual says:
Timer-black-wire to Hot; Timer-red-wire to Load (lights)
Timer-white-wire to Neutral.
Heres what to do
1) Timer-green-wire connects to bare ground wire.
2) Switch has 2 wires. Take switch wires and connect them to timer-black-wire and timer-red-wire. Choose either one for now.
3) In back of electric box are white wires twisted together and covered with wire nut. Connect timer-white to these wires.
4) If electric box does not have white wires described above, then connect timer-white to bare ground.
5) Turn on electricity, and push countdown button. If lights come on, timer is wired correctly. If lights do not come on, then reverse timer-red and timer-black wires.

Switch has 2 black wires. One black is hot wire. One black is wire going to fan. Turn off power. Remove wires from switch and separate. Turn power back on. Using ordinary tester, test each black wire to bare copper ground wire. Only one of the black wires will test hot. The other black wire goes to fan.
Timer black wire connects to black hot
Timer blue wire connects to black wire going to fan
Timer white wire connects to white neutral (in absence of white neutral, connect Timer white wire to bare ground)
Timer green connects to bare ground wire

I discovered a wire was broken off at the fan motor. From there, the rest was easy. I threw it away and bought a new one.

Hi Guys, I tested fan removed(to 240vlts) neg- pos to wires+earth to mount bracket, and found to be working, reinstalled and found power - active to both wires??fan cut out (defrost mode)activated by timer control, my timer control ( bottom rear near motor) has a knob, so i turned it and fan started,continous turning knob ran thru all cycles defrost,fan start, etc: obviously timer control was faulty, To save frozen goods , i set control to run and installed a power point timer to cycle freezer till new switch arrives, taking the place of faulty controller...

bathroom fans require a mains permenant and a switched wire from pull switch for the timer to work

You probably can't get the existing mechanical timer to operate any quietier, since it's old and likely starting to wear out. You can either swap the timer out for a new automatic digital timer, or install a standard single pole switch in its' place.

I believe the code you refer to regarding the fan having to be wired onto a timer switch was a local requirement from many years ago.

Some local jurisdictions have impossed more stringent requirements, but frankly, having an exhaust fan is normally a good idea. If the fan is vented into the attic space, it can cause some serious problems in cold weather with condesation of the warm, moist exhaust air.

Building Code requires that bath fans be piped/vented to the outside of the house and not into the attic space.

There are newer preset timer switches that will turn on the exhaust fan for a fixed amount of time, based on which button you push. These are great as they will run the fan long enough to remove condensation from showers, etc.

If you're going to replace the timer, disconnect or turn off the breaker or power to the switch. Then simply install a new timer or switch by connecting the black supply wire to the bottom of the single pole switch, or to one of the black leads of the timer. Then connect the black wire going to the fan to the top screw on the single pole switch, or the other lead on the new timer. The white (neutral) wires should already be connected with a wire nut inside the box. Connect the ground wire to the ground wire in the box and if the switch box is metal, attach the ground wire to the box with a green grounding screw too.

You can now operate the fan with either a manual on/off switch or the new digital timer, whichever you chose to install.