Trying to set switch for 5 minutes , and i only get 30 seconds or 15 minutes

prime system by switching on the ignition three times for 15 seconds each time.then operate starter maximum 30 seconds. if engine still dont start wait 5 seconds repeat the procedure.if engine does start idle rough run engine fast idle speed for one minute purge air out the lines until engine run smooth.

These vehicles have a built in antitheft system. When switching the ignition you interrupt this system. You will need to do a system relearn after the new ignition is installed. It will not start until the new ignition is installed and relearned. Step one. Put key in ignition, turn forward 2 clicks until right before it should start. Keep like that for ten minutes, NO LESS. Step two. After the ten minutes, turn key back to off position for 5 seconds. You need to do steps 1 & 2 a total of three times in a row without trying to start the car in between. The whole process should take roughly 30 minutes. After the last time waiting 5 seconds in off position, turn key forward and attempt to start the vehicle. Remember no less than ten minutes when forward, maybe do ten minutes and 15 seconds to be sure, some people even do 11 minutes.

I looked it up and it sounds like your unit is defective. It should run for 5, 10, 15, or 30 minutes. There are no "seconds" options. The timer chip/module may be defective.

Gary

You didnt give the make of the ref.; But your solution is here for most all

The newest defrost feature in modern fridges is the electronic adaptive defrost control board. *Maytag has one version, see picture...to put this adaptive defrost style of fridge into defrost, short with a small screwdriver between L1 and test on the adaptive defrost board, wait 3 seconds and you should hear a "click" noise from the relay and the fridge will shut off and go through a defrost cycle. A close up common way *this* version of the Maytag/JennAir control is wired.
Amana also has a version of adaptive defrost, see info sheet for some help on the Amana version. Press refrigerator light switch five times in six seconds to initiate defrost cycle. Pressing five more times within six seconds will cancel defrost and go straight into the run mode. Similar operation on both bottom mount and SxS refrigerators. After the defrost terminator/thermostat opens, six minutes of dwell time occurs before the compressor and condenser fan motor will operate. After defrost terminator/thermostat open, 10 minutes of dwell time occurs before the evaporator fan motor will operate.
Frigidaire has also jumped into the market with an adaptive defrost board. The fresh food section light switch and light bulb must work. To initiate a defrost cycle, open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds. The compressor and fans should shut off and the defrost heater should come on. Open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds to remove the refrigerator from the defrost mode and back into a cooling mode.
Frigidaire - referance model FSC23F7DSB3
This product comes equipped with an Adaptive Defrost Control (ADC). To activate manual defrost, press and hold the Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. A ?¿½d?¿½ in the freezer temperature window and ?¿½F?¿½ in the refrigerator temperature window will display when the heater is activated. To deactivate manual defrost, press and hold Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. ?¿½d?¿½ and ?¿½F?¿½ will be displayed until the defrost cycle is complete. (approx. 8 minutes)
For some Whirlpool refrigerators - some Kenmore refrigerators are made by Whirlpool ( 106.######## )
The refrigerator/freezer defrost system can be checked by manually initiating a defrost cycle. There
are two methods of initiating the ADC Test Mode.
First Test Method:
1. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
3. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
4. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
5. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
6. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
7. Turn the thermostat off.
In 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal closed). NOTE: The test mode will terminate when the bimetal opens. If the refrigerator/freezer is already in defrost, Test Mode can be terminated by unplugging the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet and waiting 30 seconds before plugging it back in. The refrigerator/freezer should immediately go into cooling mode if the thermostat is closed.
If this first test procedure fails to make the ADC initiate a defrost cycle, try the following procedure to make the ADC begin the Test Mode.
Second Test Method:
1. Disconnect the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet for at least 30 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat off.
3. Reconnect power to the refrigerator/freezer.
Within 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal close). If the unit fails to go into the defrost mode during this test, the problem may not be with the ADC. A defective bimetal may be the cause of the failure. The ADC will only go into a test mode if the bimetal
is closed. If the ADC senses an open bimetal it will return to the cooling mode within 3 to 8 seconds.
HELPFUL HINT: Upon entering the Test Mode, the relay mounted on the ADC board should turn off the compressor and turn on the defrost heater. Listen for the relay to click.
?¿½ If the relay clicks one time when entering the Test Mode, check for continuity in the defrost heater.
?¿½ If the relay clicks two times, check for an open bimetal.

Maytag S-S Refrigerator MSD2756GEW forcing defrost cycle
I replaced my defrost heater two weeks ago, but the frost built back up on the evaporator coils. Replaced the adaptive defrost board with new ( Maytag p/n 6100598 8 ) board. Want to force a defrost cycle to see the heater work, so I shorted the L1 pin to adjacent pin (now called DOOR instead of TEST) for three seconds and nothing happens. Compressor keeps running, fans still going etc. Tried pressing the door switches 5 times in 6 seconds and that doesn't work either. Any hints on how to get the defrost cycle to initiate?
Hi,
This might help, a copy:
The issue is that some 12002104 ADC boards have been shipped in the 61005988 ADC board box. Do not reorder the board, the 12002104 board will function the same in place of the 61005988, but you must use the forced defrost method for the 12002104. Jumping "L-1" and "door" will not initiate the forced defrost function.
To Initiate Forced Defrost Cycle:
Cycle cold control on and off three times in six seconds. The cold control needs to be left in the closed (call for cooling) position for the defrost system to energize on all platforms. It is not enough to cycle the cold control knob, the contacts must actually open and close (open doors for a period of time if necessary to force the control to call for cooling). In most cases, you can hear the contacts open and close if they are doing so.
To Terminate Forced Defrost Cycle:
Disconnect power for five seconds.
You were right. I cycled the cooling controls three times and it went into a defrost cycle. Thanks.

If you add a comment and say which timer you have, I can help with specific information.
Regular off-the-shelf timers will not cycle the way you want.
If you want a timer to cycle ON 5 minutes for every 15 minutes, you will need a cycle timer.
http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-C8835-Timer-Minute-Cycle/dp/B000GHLV5K
http://www.intermatic.com/products/timers/mechanical%20time%20switches/repeat%20cycle.aspx
This timer rotates around in full circle each 30 minutes.
Set trippers around outer edge of timer dial.
Unit shipped with 10 trippers, each tripper represents 15 seconds so you would need 40 trippers.
20 trippers = 5 minutes.
Amazon sells additional 156T1950A trippers:
http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-156T1950A-Additional-Trippers-T1900/dp/B003RWGFXO

1 Press TITLE repeatedly until the time is displayed.
For details, see "Displaying the Text" (page 15)
2 Press and hold TITLE for at least 2 seconds while
the time is displayed.
The time indication will blink.
3 Turn the Rotary encoder to adjust the hours while
the time indication is blinking.
4 When the hour has been adjusted, press MODE.
5 Turn the Rotary encoder to adjust the minutes
while the time indication is blinking.
The time is automatically set 5 seconds after the minute
adjustment. The time can also be manually set by pressing
TITLE.
• To synchronize the clock to another clock/watch or radio time
announcement, press and hold MODE for at least 2 seconds after
setting the "hour." Minutes will reset to 00. If the display shows over
"30" minutes when you do this, the time will advance one hour.

You can get the manual on the link below. scroll dow to product details to download the manual.

http://www.amazon.com/Woods-59007-Decora-30-15-10-5-30-Minute/dp/B002KS1DBU

Your timer is not desinchronized and can not be set as it is not digital (programmed) type of timer. It is "Hard Wired", that's why the problem is hardware.

Probably it is a dry condenser problem, or a quarz cristal if it's digitalised.

I think that it is rather electrolyte condenser.
If you can not repair it by yourself, take it to a friend it should not be more  expensive than a bottle two of beer.

This is usually caused by either a bad door switch or a loose door switch mount, which are pretty simple problems to fix.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.

Door switch or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

If the mount is broken, it's usually more economical and safer to add a dab or two of hot glue to the mount to secure the switch. Let it cool for about 30 minutes before using.

One test that sometimes helps is to gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount or door alignment issue.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.



At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

If you only need a switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.

If you think the problem is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in most cases in about a week or so.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

The solder joints on the vertical output IC have cracked. This is a very common problem on those sets.