I could not find any part number for the rubber grommet on the copper pick up tube located behind the reset knob on top of the fuel sump. Also needed to know if the fuel nozzle gasket has to slide over the fuel nozzle guide tube or if it just presses up against it?
It looks like the posted answers do not address your issue. If fuel is leaking at your sump and vent, shut the small fuel valve inside the stove off (reverse threads )and and drain your fuel sump. Once drained, open the fuel valve and if it floods again, you have a bad float. If not, the red "reset" button was either pushed down multiple times or held down. This causes a flooding problem. That should cure your problems.
SOURCE: Toyostove laser 73 heater with a EE 2 error
replace the flame rod. or it could be the computer board for the flame rod. flame rod detects the presence of a flame.
SOURCE: laser 73
My Laser 73 does the same thing at least once, and sometimes twice, a year. The EE6 code is what the onboard computer gives when it THINKS the flame has gone out. Now, it COULD be that all that is wrong is you are out of fuel, OR you have water in the fuel. But....the more likely scenerio, (and what has always gone wrong with mine) is a common problem in the flame pot:
There is a stainless steel baffle near the bottom of the flame pot. (about 2 inches off the bottem). This baffle is used to "form the flame", cause it to curl up around the inside edges of the pot, where the air intake holes are, to create a clean-burning, high-efficiency blue flame. Over time, this baffle becomes horribly warped and distorted from the intense heat. (an engineering design screwup, IMO) (but you'll never get them to admit it) This warping of the baffle, in turn, causes the flame itself to become uneven, and to also begin burning poorly, with soot deposits. One of the first hints this is happening is lots of YELLOW flame, instead of the usual blue. When this happens, the flame SENSOR becomes sooted and dirty, and no longer is able to sense the flame. It tells the computer to shut down, because it thinks there is no flame, hence the "EE6" code. This sensor is simply a stainless steel rod poking into the flame pot. It's on the front of the pot, two screw fastening, and has a single wire attached to it, which runs to the computer. It is used to detect IONS (minute current) running from the flame front to the pot itself. (ground) And....(as if all this is not enough), the gaskets around the middle section of the flame pot, and at the top, usually develop cracks and leaks.
Cleaning the sensor (with steel wool) usually isn't enough to fix this problem. You will likely have to replace both of the fire-pot gaskets, the flame pot baffle, and also the burner "mat". (a round, flat, fiberglass mat glued to the bottem of the flame pot. Vacuum out all the dirt and soot. The baffle "unscrews" with about a quarter-twist CCW. (lift upwards on it, while turning CCW) Use fire-proof sealer on the new gaskets. Plan on all day taking it apart, and back together again. (a time consuming job...no fun) Good luck!
SOURCE: Toyostove Laser 73 EE2
Not having a cleaning in the last couple years may be the problem. Carbon build up in the burner pot and on the flame rod (a chain of carbon) will cause the flame to not be sensed. Then the flame will burn out. A temp solution would be to unplug the stove, then unscrew and jiggle the flame rod to break the chain. When tightening the screws do not over tighten. You could also try hitting the edge of the pot to see if you can knock the carbon loose. You could also have a warped burner ring which would cause problems keeping the stove running.
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