My maytag dryer gets way to hot. you cant even get your near heating element. you can even see it glowing. what could cause that.

the element is grounding out,a part of the element is touching metal and grounding out keeping the heat on all the time,replace the element

Hi,

If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.

if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....

If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.

check out this electric no heat tip...

heatman101

I'm assuming the thermal fuse you bypassed is the small one on the right hand side of the element case. Part # LA-1053. Comes with new safety t'stat also ( the one above the element). Use both. T'stat on blower housing is the cycling t'stat. Unlikely to cause problem. You need to determine what caused the failure. Most often themal fuses fail due to improper airflow. What kind of venting does your dryer have. Vent connector from dryer to wall should be rigid metal or heavy metal flex. I see alot of foil venting sold by DIY stores, but not approved by dryer manufacturers. Easy way to check is to start dryer with vent attached, hold top up a couple of inches and look at element. It should glow soft orange. If element is very bright, red hot to white, then remove venting from the back and see if element glows less bright. If there is a noticeable difference then you will need to correct airflow problem or thermal fuse will blow again. Also check lint filter by putting in sink and running water thru it. If it holds water then scrub it clean even if it doesn't look stopped up. Fabric softener sheets leave a wax coating on the filters.

Hi, If your resistance is 2-3 Ohms, then your element is on it's way out . It needs to be replaced. The resistance should be in the range of 7-20 Ohms on a 240 Volt dryer heating element with the multimeter set at RX1. Good work finding that.

There are some additional reasons a dryer will not dry, have no heat, or cause the element to burn out prematurely.

1 If the exhaust vent run distance is too long. i.e. more that 15 feet the heating element life will be shortened Why? Because in a long vent run the vapor from the most clothes condenses on the sides of the vent hose and lint sticks to it. This lint accumulates and reduces the internal diameter of the hose. This increases air friction and the element runs at a higher temperature, etc. etc.
Solution: Clean the vent system out, or replace with a shorter system, if possible. There is an accessory fan available that can be installed that allow you to have a very long exhaust vent run. See Link
http://www.hvacquick.com/products/residential/Dryer-boosting/dryer-booster-fans/fantech-dryer-boosters?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=dryerboost&utm_campaign=fantech

2 Exhaust vent hose folded or squeezed almost or completely shut at back of dryer. This ocures when the machine is too close to the wall pinching the hose. No air carrying the moisture leave the dryer.
It can get hot and after the cycle is done. The clothes are still wet. Solution: Pull out dryer and unfold hose.

NOTE: Don't use a dryer without a vent hose attached. The dryer will pull the hot air with lint in it back into the machine. Over a period of time this lint can accumulate in the machine and cause a "lint fire" Lint fires inside a dryer sometimes turn into house fires.

Hope this helps,
Happy New Year
Mark

if this is a kenmore or whirlpool,roper,kitchenaid dryer than you will only see the element glow if you look inside the dryer.if you see a glow at the vent hose,you nead to shut the dryer down,unglug the dryer and remove the vent hose and clean it out from the dryer to the vent outlet outside.

Sounds like you have something shorted out.

The element issue could be a contact fused shut.
With both problems I would be looking for wires melted together, or a relay/sequencer welded shut melted etc.

You do have a potential fire hazzard here. If after removing the panel you cannot locate the problem, do not run the unit.

Check your vent it may be stopped up this will cause the top to get overly hot and the bearing to squeak

No the first thing I would check is the vent going outside may be cloged the air going across the heating element should keep it from glowing real bright

The heating element DOES cycle on and off through the cycling of the high limit thermostat. When was the last time you inspected the dryer vent and/or inside the dryer for lint? This sounds like you could have a couple of possible issues. Either you have a dryer that can't breath (Meaning, the vent hose is clogged from where it leaves the dryer to the vent outside. Or...the dryer may be clogged inside the air baffle inside the dryer where the lint screen goes.), or you could have a high limit thermostat that is malfunctioning. Now...the dryer will get hot to some degree, but it shouldn't be excessive. Here's a recommendation:

1. Remove the dryer vent hose from the dryer and turn the dryer on. Is the air leaving the dryer forceful and warm? (it should measure about 140 degrees F) If so...you probably have a clog or kink in the ducting somewhere between the dryer and where it exits the house. If the air is weak and cool, you will need to inspect your dryer interior to find what is obstructing the air flow. Rodents are notorious for building nests inside the event line or air baffle.

2. Can you access the heating element so you can see it? Start the dryer with the casing removed so you can watch the heating element. The element should glow red, but not so bright that it glows like the sun, and it should cycle on and off. If it glows continuously, the high limit thermostat is a likely suspect and should be replaced. (NOTE: It is recommended that you replace the high limit thermostat and thermal cut-out at the same time. Some manufacturers will sell the two as a pair).

HINTS: If you have a lint screen in the door, you should be able to access the heating element by removing a panel under the door. If your lint screen is on top of the washer, you will have to remove the rear panel of the dryer to see the heating element.

If the dryer is left to run in an overheat condition, the thermal cut-out and/or heating element will eventually blow. It is recommended that you inspect the dryer to see what is causing your current problem.

CAUTION: Always unplug the dryer if you are servicing the inside of the unit. Dangerous voltages are present even with the unit turned off. Also, unplug the dryer if you have to remove the rear panel. The 220VAC terminal is directly behind the panel and can cause electric shock if touched.

I hope this information helps you. Do your homework and post back if you need any further assistance.

First off, how are you looking to check this situation. Either way, it would be normal for this to happen. When you are looking at the elements heating, you more than likely have the door open to see them. The heater will do what they call "short cycling" because the airflow has outside source air getting into the heat stream. The door and lid almost always has to be shut for this system to work correctly. You can sometimes crack the top just enough to see the element heat. Usually, if the element is coming on at all, then the system should be fine. If you have a dryer thats not drying your clothes completely, its more than likely you have a ventilation issue (i.e vent tube restriction, grass growing in the end of the vent, etc). Also remember these Maytags have two thermostats on them most of the time. One directly over the top of the element, and one in the fan housing at the front of the unit. Try those, if there isnt a change, write me back and will look from there. Good Luck!!!!