Power connector block for MTX MXA8001

Does the blower run at all when you select heat? Fuse #37 is the fuse for the heater blower - it should be a 30 amp fuse (this is in the fuse panel under the instrument panel.) There is also a heater Blower Relay in the Power Distribution Box in the engine compartment. It is #K14 (or maybe R14.)

Another thing to check is the resistor block for the blower motor. It is located on the bottom of the blower housing, on the passenger side, inside the car, below the instrument panel. You will see a wire harness with 3 or 4 wires going to a plastic connector. If the plastic looks like it's melted, it probably is, and that may be your problem. There will be a screw holding the resistor block in place in the housing. If you can remove the plastic connector, do so, the remove the screw and the resistor block. You can get replacement connectors with pigtail wires attached on the internet. (Google "1998 Contour Blower Motor Resistor Connector" Personally, I like the kit from Dorman carried by several different auto parts suppliers. It gives you a new resistor block along with the new connector.) Check the connection pins on the resistor block. If they are dirty or have melted plastic on them, they need to be cleaned. Use a small wire brush or sandpaper to make sure the blades are "bright metal" clean, then coat them with a good electrical protection-type grease. (The little packets of grease auto parts stores sell for car light bulb sockets work well, or a good dielectric silicone grease is fine.) Once you cut off the old melted connector, solder the new connector pigtails to the ends of the old harness wires and cover the joints with heat shrink tubing.. DO NOT use crimp connectors! You'll wind up with the same problem in a very short time! Put everything back together and see if it works.

I've attached a picture of the resistor block and the connector. I found this at O'Reilly Auto Parts web site:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DCH0/973415/02627.oap?year=1998&make=Ford&model=Contour&vi=1304019&ck=Search_02627_1304019_1100&pt=02627&ppt=C0331

If you're not comfortable doing this kind of work yourself, find a friend who is, or take it to a good shop (usually a dealer is not what I would call a "good shop".)

Good luck!

It may be a mosfet in the power supply section that is blown. These parts are usually available from electronics part suppliers. Or it may be one of the amplifer transistors that is blown and it will also usually be available from parts suppliers. This fault is usually caused by battery voltage dropping to low so the amplifers output starts to clip and put D.C on the mosfets causing them to blow.

MTX never released any of their schematics.

What sort of problem are you having with it?

I had same problem with a TC6001 and get solution from MTX, not send to MTX instead MTX kindly sent a quotation for parts to be replaced, I can tell you what parts need to be replaced if you still need a solution.

If the terminals were smoking, it's probably due to loose screws in the terminal block or wire that's too small.

Did the amp work properly after the terminal blocks smoked?

There are a lot of problems that can cause the amp to apply DC to the speaker terminals.

Before we go any farther, you should know that this amp stores enough energy to kill. When power is applied, the transistors must be clamped to the sink. After removing power, you MUST wait for ALL LEDs to go COMPLETELY out.

You need to CAREFULLY measure the DC voltage from leg 1 to leg 3 of all of the output transistors (the ones you changed). Post a list of the voltages and circuit board designation (FETxyz) for any that read more than 1v.

Do NOT let the probes short to other pins or to the heatsink when measuring the voltage.

Remember... High voltage and lots of stored energy. Be careful.

just run the tweeters to the front speaker channels on the radio

i would go with the 801.And ithink u meant the 4501 not 4051.Both super power amps. competition stuff.your woofers are 4ohms dual voice coils.so you can series the coil on eaach woffer and use the two channels on the amp.they play at 2ohms.I think if you drop it down to 1 ohm you really be taxing you alternator that is series power.Yioou would need a special alternator.Even with them running in 2 ohms you better hav eat least a 2 farad cap.OR two batteries.. ! more thing don 't pump it up with window s closeed .you'll pop them.serious dbl. you be pumping.I'm jealous.Rating please and enjoy.

hello i have 2 audiofinics adf-272 i dont know what kind of amp to hook up with it which one do u think is best for them a mtx 4051 500 watt class d mono block or a mtx 801d 800 watts

You need to contact MTX tech support before the warranty runs out. You'll probably have to get an RA number to send it back.

 

http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/contactMTX.cfm