The control for the compressor is not turning on when the remote is set on cool, but the indoor fans turn on. This is a C4822N outside unit and a RS 2422A twin indoor unit. there is 220 volt being sent down on black and white to the indoor unit but nothing comes back to the outside unit on red

The Fan of the indoor unit is not supposed to turn off when the indoor Temp reaches the set temperature, but the indoor ambient sensor tells the outdoor unit that that's enough. Then, the outdoor unit minimizes the sound of the compressor. It is the normal operation of the Inverters. The Indoor motor fan doesn't turn off until you turn off the unit.

14.2.2 To Make a Diagnosis1 Timer LED starts to blink and the unit automatically stops the operation.
2 Press the CHECK button on the remote control continuously for 5 seconds.
3 "- -" will be displayed on the remote control display.
Note: Display only for "- -" (No signal transmission, no receiving sound and no Power LED blinking)
4 Press the TIMER ? or ? button on the remote control. The code "H00" (no abnormality) will be displayed
and signal will be transmit to the main unit.
5 Each press of the button (? or ?) will increase error code
number and transmit error code signal to the main unit.
6 When the latest abnormality code on the main unit and
code transmitted from the remote control are matched,
Power LED will light up for 30 seconds and a "beep" sound
(continuously for 4 seconds) will be heard. If no codes are
matched, Power LED will light up for 0.5 seconds and no
sound will be heard.
7 The breakdown diagnosis mode will be canceled unless
pressing the CHECK button continuously for 5 seconds or
operating the unit for 30 seconds.
8 The LED will be off if the unit is turned off or the RESET
button on the main unit is pressed.
Diagnosis
display Abnormality / Protection control Abnormality
Judgement Emergency operation Primary location to verify H00 No abnormality detected - Normal operation H11 Indoor / Outdoor abnormal communica
tion > 1 min after starting
operation Indoor fan operation
only • Internal / external cable connections
• Indoor / Outdoor PCB H14 Indoor intake air temperature sensor
abnormality Continue for 5 sec. - • Intake air temperature sensor (detec
tive or disconnected) H15 Outdoor compressor temperature sensor
abnormality Continue for 5 sec. - • Compressor temperature sensor
(detective or disconnected) H16 Outdoor Current Transformer open cir
cuit - - • Outdoor PCB
• IPM (Power transistor) module H19 Indoor fan motor mechanism locked 7 times occurance
continuously - • Indoor PCB
• Fan motor H23 Indoor heat exchanger temperature sen
sor abnormality Continue for 5 sec. O
(Cooling only) • Heat exchanger temperature sensor
(detective or disconnected) H24 Indoor heat exchanger temperature sen
sor 2 abnormality Continue for 5 sec. - • Heat exchanger temperature sensor
(detective or disconnected) H27 Outdoor intake air temperature sensor
abnormality Continue for 5 sec. O • Outdoor temperature sensor (detec
tive or disconnected) H28 Outdoor heat exchanger temperature
sensor abnormality Continue for 5 sec. O • Outdoor heat exchanger temperature
sensor (detective or disconnected) H30 Outdoor discharge air temperature sen
sor abnormality Continue for 5 sec. - • Outdoor temperature sensor (detec
tive or disconnected) H33 Indoor / Outdoor wrong connection - - • Indoor / Outdoor supply voltage H38 Indoor / Outdoor mismatch (brand code) H50 Ventilation motor abnormality 7 times occurance
continuously - • Indoor PCB
• Ventilation motor H51 Nozzle lock abnormality 2 times occurance
continuously - • Nozzle H52 Limit switch abnormality - - • Indoor PCB H97 Outdoor fan motor mechanism locked 2 times occurance
within 30 minutes - • Indoor PCB
• Fan motor H98 Indoor high pressure protection - - • Air filter dirty
• Air circulation short circuit H99 Indoor heat exchanger anti-freezing pro
tection - - • Insufficient refrigerant
• Air filter dirty F11 Cooling / Heating cycle changeover
abnormality 4 times occurance
within 30 minutes - • 4-way valve
• V-coil F90 PFC control 4 times occurance
within 10 minutes - • Voltage at PFC F91 Refrigerantion cycle abnormality 2 times occurance
within 20 minutes - • No refrigerant
(3-way valve is closed) F93 Compressor rotation failure 4 times occurance
within 20 minutes - • Compressor F95 Cool high pressure protection 4 times occurance
within 20 minutes - • Outdoor refrigerant circuit F96 IPM (power transistor) overheating pro
tection 4 times occurance
within 30 minutes - • Excess refrigerant
• Improper heat radiation
• IPM (Power transistor) F97 Outdoor compressor overheating protec
tion 4 times occurance
within 10 minutes - • Insufficient refrigerant
• Compressor F98 Total running current protection 3 times occurance
within 20 minutes - • Excess refrigerant
• Improper heat radiation F99 Outdoor Direct Current (DC) peak detec
tion 7 times occurance
continuously - • Outdoor PCB
• IPM (Power transistor)
• Compressor

Note:
"O" - Frequency measured and fan speed fixed.
The memory data of error code is erased when the power supply is cut off, or press the Auto Switch until "beep" sound heard following by pressing the "CHECK" button at remote controller.
Although operation forced to stop when abnormality detected, emergency operation is possible for certain errors (refer to Error Codes Table) by using remote controller or Auto Switch at indoor unit. However, the remote controller signal receiving sound is changed from one "beep" to four "beep" sounds.

Check first that

• the air conditioning equipment is turned on,
• the thermostat is calling for cooling, and that
• the blower unit or air handler is actually blowing air through the ductwork.

Here are the details of what to check in what order if your air condtioner or heat pump doesn't start at all when you set the room thermostat to call for cooling:

1. Check the Room Thermostat Temperature Setting: Set the thermostat to at least 5 degrees below room temperature. Our elderly mom has no patience with switches and controls. She regularly calls her air conditioning service company with a service request, sometimes late at night, because she has simply failed to set the temperature on the thermostat lower than the room temperature. Don't drive your A/C like our mother.
2. Check that the Room Thermostat is set to "Cool" not "Off" or "Heat". If the thermostat is not set to "cool" it is simply turning off your A/C. If the thermostat display is blank then it's not receiving power (for modern digital thermostats). Check that electrical power is on at the air handler and to the the low-voltage transformer that supplies power to the thermostat.
   
   If the thermostat has power, check that when you set the thermostat temperature down at least 5 degrees below room temperature the thermostat calls for cooling. If it doesn't then check for broken or shorted thermostat wires anywhere between the wall thermostat and the control board at the air handler.
   
   You can easily eliminate possible thermostat problems as a cause of failure of the air conditioner to start by simply eliminating the thermostat from the picture: disconnect the thermostat wires at the blower unit's control board and instead connect the two thermostat terminals directly together with a jumper wire. If the system starts then the problem is in the thermostat itself or in its wiring.
   
   If the thermostat is working but the compressor condenser unit won't start, you could skip ahead
   to COMPRESSOR / CONDENSER DIAGNOSTICS but I wish you'd double check the remaining steps in this article first because there are some sneaky snafus listed below that might still be the problem.


3. Check that electricity is on for the equipment. Check all of the electrical switches and controls that can turn electrical power off at the indoor air handler or at the outdoor compressor/condenser unit. There are more of these switches than you might guess. Here's a list of what to check:
   
   Electrical power switches and service switches outside by the compressor, inside at the air handler, and fuses or circuit breakers in the electrical panel. Don't forget to check that the access covers to the equipment are properly closed and latched. Otherwise a
   BLOWER DOOR SAFETY SWITCH could be keeping the equipment from running.
   
   There are several other safety switches and controls, both manual and automatic that can leave an air conditioner or heat pump turned "off" such as a blower compartment door interlock safety switch, an electric motor overload or overheat switches, and a condensate tray spillage detector switch.
   
   Some hard-to-find electrical switches on an air conditioner or heat pump could be keeping your air conditioner from starting, such as
   a FLOAT SWITCH on Condensate Tray that could
   be
   causing CONDENSATE PAN SWITCH LOCKOUT - condensate spilling into an overflow pan that uses a sensor switch can be enough to shut down your air conditioner.
   or
   a blower MOTOR OVERLOAD RESET SWITCH could be keeping a fan motor from starting.
   
   A bad or failed starter capacitor could also be leaving your system shut down, failing to start a blower, fan, or compressor motor.
   See CAPACITORS for HARD STARTING MOTORS
   
   Watch out: See A/C - HEAT PUMP CONTROLS & SWITCHES to be sure you have found and checked everymanual or automatic electrical switch on the system.
4. Check the electrical supply voltage. Even if electricity is on, if the supply voltage has fallen too far below the operating voltage range of your air conditioner it's likely that the system will not operate, particlarly, you may note that the compressor motor won't start.
   See VOLTS MEASUREMENT METHODS

If the outdoor unit is running the indoor fan should definitely be running. Turn power off to indoor unit. Put red green and yellow wires together behind the tstat with a wire nut. That is power (red), indoor fan (green), and compressor (yellow.) Turn power back on. This is bypassing the tstat and you should have indoor fan and outside running as well. If yes the problem is in the tstat, if no indoor fan the problem is in the unit. Good Luck!! Let me know!!

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79

Check the air filter and if it is dirty, replace..
Turn equipment off and let the ice melt.
After ice melts, place a/c in cooling mode and set the thermostat to 3 degrees below room temp display.

The indoor unit fan should start blowing cold air immediately and then turn off once the room temp drops one degree below the cooling temp setting.
If the indoor unit does cycle off, check the outdoor unit and make sure it turns off at the same time.
If the outdoor unit continues to run and the indoor fan is not running, the indoor unit will ice up.
A defective compressor relay that is stuck in a closed position will cause icing of the indoor unit because it keeps the compressor running when it should turn off with the indoor fan.

Do you have an error code being displayed on the controller?
Is there an led light that is flashing on the indoor unit?

Another possibility causing the indoor unit to ice up is if the freon in the system starts to get low.
Make sure the ice has all melted for this next check.
Pretty easy to check without special tools.
If the air filter is clean and there is no dust/ dirt blocking the fins on the indoor unit, turn a/c back on to cool and check that the indoor unit fan comes on and is blowing air good.
Once everything seems to running good go to the outdoor unit.
There will be two lines with black rubber insulation covering them.
Peel back the insulation three inches on each line and observe the copper lines.
If either line starts to frost up the a/c system is most likely low on refrigerant.


Another cause of indoor unit icing could be that the aluminum fins behind the air filter are clogged with dust or other foreign material.
This would block the air that must be pulled in causing the indoor unit coil to become too cold due to lack of air flow and it will ice up.

Operating the cooling system when the outdoor temperature is below 60 degrees can cause the indoor unit to ice up also.

I'm Robert.
Florida certified a/c contractor. 30 years experience.
Hope this helps.

Indoor or outside. Im pretty should the compressor has gone. If you turn it on does the indoor fan and outdoor fan work but not cooling . or does it not turn on at all.
have you checked your fuse box.

Turn power off to indoor unit. Remove red, yellow and green wires from tstat and wire nut the three together. Turn power to indoor unit back on. This should bring on indoor fan and outdoor conpressor and fan. Let me know

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79

Thanks for your detailed information. But solution is very simple. The compressor contactor in out door unit. Struck. And hence, when you power on, without indoor commanding, the out door starts running.

Replace same type Contactor relay (In out door unit) immediately. Hope, it's helpful.

Hi!!

Check the following:

Make sure the filter and the evaporator coil are clean. Also check condenser coil in the outside unit is clean.

When unit is turned on there should be (on the led display, inside unit) one green light on for the blower and another one for the compressor, both lights should be ON untill the unit reaches the preset temp. If the light for the compressor (usually the light on the right side) does not stay ON, check the outside unit.

On the outside unit, check that when turned on, both the fan and the compressor kick in and stay running. If the fan motor stops, the compressor overheats and the thermal proteccion shuts it down to prevent damage. Also, if the R22 gas is low, the low pressure switch prevents the compressor from running.

Good Luck!!

It sounds like you have a unit called a heat pump. When a heat pump unit is in cooling mode the outside unit blows hot air and the inside unit blows cold air. If the outside unit is blowing cold then the indoor unit is most likely blowing room temperature or warm air. It sounds like the thermostat could be controlling incorrectly or you could have a failed reversing valve which is the device that switches the unit from heating to cooling mode.