Unite is a carrier nine years old
I
am a certified HVAC Technician. I have worked in the field since 1996. I have
seen this hundreds of times, if not a thousand times, in the past. Every
central air conditioning and heat pump system comes with TWO drain pans, The
MAIN drain pan is located within the AIR HANDLER (blower) UNIT, while the
EMERGENCY DRAIN PAN is extremely LARGE and sits under the ENTIRE AIR HANDLER
(blower) UNIT. The ONLY time water will be INSIDE an EMERGENCY DRAIN PAN is
when the MAIN DRAIN PAN condensate drain line is CLOGGED, causing the MAIN
DRAIN PAN to overflow. What causes the drains pans OR the drain lines to become
clogged is slime and scale from the condensate water as well as debris from
within the attic that may have either been blown by the air or may have simply
have fallen into the emergency drain pan; or some insects from the out of doors
have traveled up into the PVC Drain line and built a nest on the downward side
of the P-trap. The P-trap is designed to prevent critters from entering your
home through the PVC drain lines. Most CLOGS occur at the P-TRAP location. 1.
Locate the WHITE PVC drain pipe outside your house and ensure there is NO water
draining from it. Follow
the below steps, in the order shown: B.
SECONDLY, locate the WHITE PVC "P-TRAP" inside your house. It is
normally located within a couple to three feet of your indoor air handing
(blower) unit. D.
Ask the person outside if anything has started to EXIT. You can ALSO usually
hear water start to drain if you put your ear up to the drain line. If the
person said "NO"and if you don't see the water level getting LOWER in the
EMERGENCY drain pan, then REPEAT step "C" above. E.
If the person informs you that there IS water now starting to exit the WHITE
PVC DRAIN PIPE, you should then wait until all water has drained from the
EMERGENCY DRAIN PAN; and then pour at least 1 quart of BLEACH down that drain,
from the EMERGENCY DRAIN PAN exit. The BLEACH will further clear out any SLIME
which may be remaining within the "P-TRAP" and will also CLEAN OUT and
DISINFECT that drain line. If the above steps do NOT work for you, then
prepare to go into the next LOGICAL phase of your attack. Please NOTE: I am limited to 10,000 characters in my response, so I'll repost additional STEPS in another RESPONSE. Good Luck!!!
The BEST thing to do is:
2. Locate the same WHITE PVC drain pipe inside your house. You should notice a
"TEE" where two WHITE PVC drain pipes merge into ONE WHITE PVC drain
pipe.
A. FIRST, find another person to act as your second set of eyes at the end of
the WHITE PVC Drain Line that is located outside of your home. That person will
be looking for water or debris to EXIT the end of that WHITE PVC DRAIN LINE.
C. THIRDLY, very gently lift the entire WHITE PVC drain line up in the air as
high as you can without breaking it, and slam it down onto the rafters or attic
floor or garage floor. You are attempting to dislodge the CLOG within the drain
pipe WITHOUT having to actually CUT the PVC and without damaging or breaking
the WHITE PVC. Depending on how old the system is, it may or may not be
brittle; and it may not take much to damage or break the PVC, which will cause
leaks. So, be very careful at this point.
SOURCE: goodman heat pump trips sometimes no know cause.
20 AMP Circuit, huh? More on this below.
The tech probably didn't put a hard start kit on, but if he did, I hope he added the resistor to the start capacitor, or you could have a problem in the future. He probably put a soft start on it, a 2 wire device which looks like a capacitor. But only you will know for sure (or he.). As for warranty, manufacturers don't care about soft or hard start kits. In fact, they like 'em, because they extend the life of the compressor, which keeps them from having to pay for a new one.
I would be concerned with a 20 AMP circuit for anything higher than 2 tons. Take a look at the nameplate rating on the side of the condensor and tell me how many Running Load Amps (RLA) this unit is supposed to pull.
Also need to know your line voltage at the condensor, with the unit running.
SOURCE: central heating and air unit is blowing fine in
Check and see if the fan will turn easily by hand. Do not put your hand inside with the power on. Turn on unit, take a small stick and try to turn the motor. if the motor starts and runs then you capacitor is probably bad. if the motor is hard to turn then the motor is bad.
SOURCE: my central heating and air unit is blowing inside
The first thing I would check is the breaker/disconnect that feeds your outside unit with electricity. If it seems fine then i would check the electrical contact/relay that energizes the compressor. Low voltage from your thermostat is sent to a small coil in the contact/relay that is energized to pick up a set of contacts. These contacts allow the supply voltage to flow through them to turn on your compressor and fan. If your thermostat is in the on position, have an electrician use a meter to see if there is voltage on either/both sides of the contact. If it is only on the supply side, then you probably have a bad contact. Fairly inexpensive fix if you are a do-it-yourselfer. Also, make sure that your thermostat is sending out a signal to the contact. A meter will show you a low voltage signal if it is working.
SOURCE: outside unit won;t come on
First check the disconnect/circuit breaker for the outside unit. Then set the thermostat to make the unit come on. Remove the cover on the outside unit where the power goes in so that you can see the contactor. Is the contactor pulled in? If it is, check for proper voltage on the load side of the contactor. If thats good then look at the capacitor. If it looks swollen then it is bad otherwise you can check it with a multimeter or have a heating and air supply check it for you. If the contactor isn't pulled in, remove the face of the thermostat and install a jumper between the R and Y terminals. If the contactor pulls in then, the thermostat is bad. Let me know what you find so I can give you more advice if this doesn't get you going.
SOURCE: Just cut on 8 year old Goodman CPLE24-1 AC for the
Due to the many different questions I see about Air Conditioning, I am including this overview to help us better understand each other for trouble shooting. A basic air conditioning system has a Thermostat, Air Handler or Furnace Fan and a Condensing unit. In a split system, the condensing unit (Condenser) is separate from the furnace and usually in the back yard. When working properly, it blows hot air. It connects to the cooling part of the system by 2 copper lines. One large line and 1 small line. The part that cools the house is the "Evaporator" and is usually on top of the furnace inside the square metal box (Plenum). When the Air Conditioner is running, the large copper line should be cold and the smaller line should be warm. Common signs of low refrigerant are that both lines are the same temperature and/or frost or ice has built up on the large line at the condenser. The thermostat will normally display room temperature on till it is touched to change the setting. It could have a "Span" setting as well as times and temperatures. The operating "span" of MOST residential thermostats is 40 to 90 degrees. That means you can set it as low as 40 degrees and no higher than 90 degrees. It probably has a fan switch also. When in the "ON" position, the fan will run constantly, 24 / 7, but the condenser will still cycle on and off as needed to keep the house at set point. If you have a suggestion to include in this paragraph, please let me know.
I think I have it covered above. Let me know if you need something more specific. Thank you. Roger
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