During the winter on start up will not hold 1200-1300 RPM, have to manually keep up idle until warm. Idle after warm between 250 RPM and 500RPM
Engine stalling and rough run
issue at low speeds This problem
is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and
throttle valve. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use
carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC
chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is
running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the
speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and
blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the
negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control
SOURCE: ENGINE STALLS DURING COLD STARTS.
Sounds like an IAC motor, If you look near the trottle body there is a long cylinder with two bolts holding it on, the only other suspect would be a vacuum leak. -Jared
SOURCE: At startup my 94' F150 will oscillate from high to low idle
I had this problem once on an econoline van and it was the plantum gasket but before you change this check all the vacuum lines and get a digital volt meter and test the voltages on the mass air flow sensor and if you have to change the plantum gasket auto zone can print you out a diagram stating all you have to remove to replace it
SOURCE: 98 Isuzu Trooper stalls on cold start, idle issues..
I had the same issue on my 99 Trooper.
It would usually start when completely cold, but idle around 2k RPM.
It would drive fine. But if I shut it down, ran into a store, and came back out, it would start but immediately idle.
Had to ride the gas a little to get it into gear.
The Check Engine light has been going on and off for 6 months or so.
I took this to my local trusted repair shop (no Isuzu dealers within 200 miles).
The diagnosed the light, and found that the Intake Gaskets were bad or leaking.
The idling problem was related to the car not being able to control the amount of air coming in.
They replaced the Intake gaskets by the next day, and I haven't had a problem since. And no more check engine light, which has been on half a year.
Here's some details from my bill:
(1) Intake Gasket set $107.95
Misc materials $21.00
2.1 hours of Labor
The total cost to me was $345.00, and I definately don't feel gipped.
SOURCE: car idles low, stalls after start
Common issue at the shop (i'm a ford technician), here is what I do to correct it.
Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls at stops and low erratic idle speed and rough idle, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve (IAC for short), they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.
SOURCE: rough idle then stalls
Vacume leak or bad idle motor. With the car in park and running with the hood open listen for leaks moving your hand around the different hoses looking for a change in the sounds that you hear. The idel motor also makes the car idel up to 1500 RPM or so right at start-up then idel down, If it doesn;t the idel motor is likly. Check engine light is on when running? Test for codes, Follow code test charts don't skip any steps!.
Testimonial: "Found the problem vacume leak like you said."
743 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×