The thermostat internally does not work properly most of the time.
EBay often has the control boards for Amana heat pumps, and installing them is fairly straightforward, provided you have some experience with electronics, a soldering iron, etc. Amanapartsonline.com may also be able to sell you the part, which should run between $50 and $150.
Given, however, that the thermostat is also showing problems, as well as what parts are going for these days, I'd seriously consider upgrading to a new unit and selling the old one on Craigslist to offset the cost a bit. If you can find an HVAC technician, someone who's learning HVAC, someone who just wants it for a guestroom where it need not work perfectly or a landlord who can afford to have a secondhand unit fixed and put it in one of their properties for their tenants to buy your fixable old one for a few hundred dollars and a new one only runs about $700, your upgrade will cost less than having the 7-year-old unit repaired, plus you'll be recycling.
SOURCE: How do you check to see if the circuit board is working on a unit
open your control area,
check your l1 and l2 conections this unit is usually 220v
the control is this simple
voltage in no voltage out change the board
SOURCE: ptac fan keeps blowing
Try setting the fan control to "AUTO" this will cause it to cut out with the compressor.
SOURCE: Amana PTAC
Sounds like if this is a heat pump, maybe it tripped out on high pressure. Maybe just unplugging the system may reset the control boards. This maybe due to a dirty filter or dirty evaporator coil.
SOURCE: My 4yr old Amana heat pump quit working - the
Your thermostat can get power from either of two power souces. Primary power would be 24 VAC from a transformer mounted inside your air handler. Second (optional) power may be provided from battery backup, with the batteries mounted inside the thermostat itself.
Since your display went completely blank, then I would venture to guess that it is related to the 24 VAC circuit, sourced from the air handler. You probably do not have battery back up. Use a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) to measure the RED wire connected to your thermostat. Make sure to use the VAC setting on the DVOM.
The "hot" side is the red wire, and will be connected to the "R" terminal in your thermostat. The Common side will be connected to most likely a blue, a black, or a brown wire. The Common terminal will be labeled "C" (but perhaps B) on your thermostat.
Since the thermostat is just plain dead you should next locate and check the fuse or breaker for the air handler control circuitry. There may be multiple different breakers/fuses for your heat pump's outdoor circuitry, its indoor controls, and its indoor resistive heat strips. Also, the circuit could be either 120 VAC or 240 VAC. Has one of them tripped or blown a fuse?
If you have breakers, then flip all of your breakers off and then back on. Stay near the breaker box and wait for a minute, listening/looking to see if any breaker has tripped or if a fuse has blown. Otherwise, if the circuit is fused, then examine or test the fuse. Again, use your DVOM, this time in the Ohms setting. Zero Ohms indicate the fuse is good. A very high Ohms reading is a blown fuse (infinite resistance) In this case, verify that the blown fuse is the CORRECT value. Maybe it isn't. Replace it with the correct amperage fuse. Again, wait a few moments and see if it the new fuse blows.
If either the new fuse immediately blows, or if the flipped breaker immediately trips, then STOP and call a professional. You have a high-power wiring problem. Call around, and find an expert. It could be that a mouse chewed thru some insullation. You don't know, but don't be sold on replacing an expensive component without verifiable proof of the source of the problem.
Otherwise, go back and check your 24 VAC "R" Red terminal at the thermostat. If it reads 24VAC hot now, then you have solved the problem, at least temporarily. You now need to know why the breaker tripped or the fuse blew.
If the circuit is on a breaker, then just replace it. They really do go bad after a while. Pop the old breaker out and bring it with you to the hardware store. Replace it with the correct brand, amperage, and configuration.
If the circuit was on a fuse, then (a) was it really the correct amperage rating? or (b) is there a chance that you had a hit from the power company or a nearby lightening strike? (probably not, or some of your computer/stereo/other stuff would have been knocked out too.)
Otherwise, you know the source circuits are good, and you know you don't have 24VAC at the "R" terminal of your thermostat. There are now more possibile causes.... to be continued. Marty
SOURCE: looking for manuel reset on heater amana ptac
I have a Amana PTAC Model PTH153A50AC with the DigiSmart upgrade kit (DSUK01B) which as of last night stoped generating heat. I tried the Diagnostic and got a "LF" displayed. But I find no reference to what LF means. HELP please. Also I looked but can't find a reset button either.
Signed
House without heat
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