Gxrlqr filter leaks

Hi, This link could help
GXRLQR GE SmartWater Inline Filter Replacement Cartridge Overview

It's not screwed on good enough or there is a seal out of place.

Turn off your incoming cold water to the tankless. (you should probably do the same with your hot water out line just in case). find the black cap that screws sideways into the cold water connection on the bottom of the unit. unscrew the black cap. the filter is supposed to be attached but it almost always comes off. grab a screw driver and stick it in the hole that the black cap was covering. angle it and drag the filter out. you may end up putting a hole in the filter this way but it doesn't matter if you are replacing the filter anyways. once you pull it out make sure you have a little rubber washer on the new filter or else transfer from the old one. the new filter should actually attach itself nicely onto the black cap so once you've removed the old one all you have to do is screw the black cap/filter combo piece back onto the cold water connection and you're done.

I suppose I should mention you will want to have a bucket under the pipes and everything because your unit will empty all the water that was in the unit out of that hole.

If valve is dripping, buy garden hose cap and screw onto valve.
Whole valve unscrews counterclockwise.
If valve is plastic, expect it to break off.
If valve is brass, use cheater bar on your pipe wrench.
I don't know that serial number or part number, but drain valves are standard 3/4" pipe thread.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-drain-valve.html

Drain valve can be rusted in place and impossible to remove without draining tank and putting water heater on it's side.
Install new water heater so drain valve is accessible, and buy new water heater with brass valve instead of plastic.

If you have a filter in your line - this would be a good time to replace it. If it has been replaced recently you will just need to "prime" it by filling up the filter and screwing it back on (prime a new one as well). Or in the case of an element type filter - put the filter in the case and fill with fuel - attach to base. Then you will need to find the bleeder nipple on your furnace pump (attached to the motor) that is like that used on brake systems of a vehicle. Be sure and have a collection system in place (old bucket and a rag or two). Turn on the furnace and open the nipple slowly until air starts to bubble out. When the air is reduced to a flow of fuel - close the nipple - you should be good to go. Let me know if this is the solution. Thanks

The first thing to do is shut off power supply to the heater. Then while water is still on hook up garden hose to drain valve on bottom of heater. Place hose to floor drain or some other location for safe drainage. Open drain valve and if it starts draining at a good rate then shut water supply valve off to heater. You will want to open hot side of closest faucet to prevent vacumn which will slow or stop draining. After heater is done draining shut off drain valve and faucet . Remove the cover plates on top and bottpm of heater. Usually four small screws. Locate heating elements and disconnect wiring,label if you need to for reinstallation. There are two kinds of heating elements,one is held in place with 4 hex head bolts,and the other is screwed in. If yours has the bolts carefully remove to avoid breaking bolts.Then just pull out to remove To reinstall there will be a new rubber gasket with element, fit it in place and insert element back in heater. Reconnect wires. If there are no bolts apparent then the element screws into heater. You will need a pipe wrench or large wrench to remove the element. The same thing with this element is that it should have a new rubber gasket. Put gasket in place and wrap threads with 5 to 6 wraps of teflon tape. Install element and tighten snugly. Connect wires,refill with water and check for leaks. If no leaks then turn power back on. Put cover plates back on and you're done. I hope this helps you. Thanks

These replacement filters (GXRLQR) are FLAWED straight out of the factory. The problem is in the 2 little "teeth" nubs that stick up near the center circle of the filter. When the filter is twisted and inserted, these teeth push up on a tiny black spring loaded valve in the body of the filter, alowing water to pass through up and out the spigot. The flaw is that the "nubs" are too short and do not push open the spring valve far enough, reducing flow to a semi-trickle, even with a brand new filter. GE seems to think this is not a problem.

Solution=stick a $0.25 garden hose rubber washer in the top of the filter and screw it in. You may have to try a few times to get it to work and seat properly. When it works, you'll immediately get a nice super flow of water. Better than upgrading to a $200 filter system recommended by GE...

The red button is a pressure relieve valve. If the system is leaking from the valve, try pushing the valve up from the underside of the cap where the valve is located. If this does not work the housing needs to be replaced. You do not have to replace this with a name brand like GE. All you need to do is make sure the housing that you are purchasing is the same size.

Example of Replacement Filter Housing: http://www.freshwatersystems.com/c-107-filter-housings.aspx

FreshWaterSystems.com: The Water Super Store: 1-877-335-3339

before putting cover on, chk the button to make sure it isn't staying depressed and see what the button is doing when depressed. The cover may have to be in a certain position. with the cover in place, gently rotate untill button pops up

You can buy these at any good hardware store- two types- Aluminium and manganese- if you replace and have a odor from water remove and replace with other. Really easy to do. Turn off water pressure to tank . Drain pressure at lowest tap in house. Put hose on drain spiggot of tank and drain off 1-2 gallons .Turn off electrical to tank. Unscrew old with socket- yes socket - do not use a pipe wrench.You will need a power bar Or good solid ratchet to remove and reinstall. Apply a pipe dope or teflon tape to new and srew in place- wrap tape counter clockwise or it will spin off as you turn in place and it will leak. Do not drain tank completely - you require this weight to keep tank from spinning as you remove and reinstall. After tightening slowly put pressure back on system - never shock pipes etc.Just as you do not slam your brakes- don't slam your pipes,Turn power back on after checking for leaks -tighten as required. Double check spiggot after removing hose as dirt can sometime cause a slow leak- monitor all areas for at least 3-5 mins and then check again at end of week. Also know that the lifespan of a tank should max at 15 yrs after that - replace or accept the flood when it happens. Good luck at poat me if you need me. Allen