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The width of the needle setting is limited by the width of the hole in the needle plate and the presser foot. You really don't want to alter this unless it has been knocked off its specified setting.
Some machines are straight-stitch only, some have 3 position settings (left, center, right), and some newer machines have a variety of needle position settings. Whichever your machine has is what you can use.
Resetting factory settings in some models will only reset the settings of the machine and does not effect the stitch memory.
to clear the stored stitches from memory try the following.
press «clr/del» and left / right arrow
button at the same time
• release both buttons
• leave Memory by pressing the
Left / right button
• Memory is now completely
deleted
You can hold a max of 30 stitches in memory on most models.
It really depends on the type of material you are sewing. But most machines are set at around 4 from the factory. remember right to tighten, left to loosen.
I always adjust my overlocker stitch in several ways. I start test serging with the blade set right out to the right so that it "fills" the stitching. I'll set all the thread dials to the middle setting, ie. 5. Then I test serge, and check the stitch formation. If the needle is looping underneath, then I'll tighten it "A LITTLE". If the looper threads are lying off the cut edge of the fabric, then I'll dial both the top and bottom looper numbers up a little to make those threads tighter.
Each fabric behaves differently depending on its "hand" so the right stitch settings do vary, ie. organza is different to heavy weight cotton or denim. So if my inital setting is then "bunching" up the fabric within the stitching, I will then lower the numbers for the top and bottom looper to release the thread some. And if the fabric is very soft and light and still bunches up, then I will move the blade over to the left some, cutting a narrower edge within the overlocking so the threads lie better.
So revist the settings, check that the cones are flowing freely, thread is into the tension devices fully, then retest the stitching. If it is the top looper only that is looping off the edge, and not the bottom as well, and they are both set to the same number, then I'd be a bit suss about the tension dial.
Setting bobbin case tension:
Put wound bobbin in bobbin case. Thread it in case. Hold the thread and carefully let go of the case only holding bobbin thread. The case should NOT move. Quickly let your hand drop 2-3 inches to let the bobbin case free fall for 2-3 inches, the bobbin case should move slightly then stop. It moves because it let’s a little thread off the bobbin. It should then stop .5"- 2" of thread should release. If so, your bobbin case tension is right. If it’s right then begin to look at your top thread tension. Always Always start with a properly adjusted bobbin case, then adjust your top tension accordingly.
I had a similar problem with my machine. What I've started doing with mine is setting the stitch length at 3 and the differential feed ratio at 1.0 then I set all 4 thread tensions at 3. I thread the machine from right to left, and then when everything seems to be working okay I take scrap material to test the tension and then set them to suit the material I'm using. Right now I'm working with a twill so my settings are 4-4-5-5. This seems to have stopped the thread slipping off the bottom looper and I haven't had any more needles break. I hope this is helpful.
When you turn your machine on it automatically sets up for a straight stitch with the needle centered. Just guide the right edge of your fabric along the line marked 15 on the throat plate and you'll have very close to a 5/8" seam. If you need more precision you can adjust your needle position to the left or the right by using the stitch width and mirror setting buttons.
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