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Hi,
I just bought a refurbished receiver, and brand new paradigm speakers. I decided to let the amp and speakers play overnight to "break them in". The receiver was working for 10 hours straight at low volume, before shutting down by itself. I then turned it on again and it lasted 10 minutes. After that it didn't want to turn on anymore, but would make a "click click" sound. The next day, I removed every connector from the receiver and tried again with no luck. I removed the cover and checked the 2 visible fuses to be ok. I then tried powering the receiver to see where the sound was coming from. Once I identified what seemed to be a relay, I tapped on it with the back end of a screw driver, and that fixed it!! My receiver now works, but I am wondering if I should replace that part anyway? I don't really know if this will change anything? any ideas? thanks!
thanks for your response, I am thinking of buying the part and keeping it aside until dday. Is there any danger of damaging other componenets if I wait for it to stop working before replacing it?thanks for your response, I am thinking of buying the part and keeping it aside until dday. Is there any danger of damaging other componenets if I wait for it to stop working before replacing it?
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The relay contacts are most likely bad in the relay and will most likely happen again. If you know how to solder, take out the relay and look up the numbers on the internet and see what you can find. If not, try to find where the manufactuer is located and call them to see where you can get a new relay. Good Luck
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Here's the Owner's manual -> https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paradigm.com%2Fdownloads%2FOM-100.pdf.
There are many ways to connect the system depending on your receiver's outputs and the speakers. Usually, the TV L/R output connects to one of the receiver's inputs. The receiver's preamp sub output goes to the powered subwoofer. The receiver's FL/C/FR/SL/SR/RL/RR speaker outputs go to the respective speakers.
A few questions to help me help you: (1) Does the woofer cone move freely when you use your hands to move it (or do you feel friction)? (2) have you tried swapping the left speaker for the right to rule out the receiver as a cause?
PDR-8 Specifications
Design
Single driver, bass reflex system with critically tuned resistive port and built-in amplifier
Amplifier
High-current, discrete output, 90 watts RMS
Amplifier Features
Soft clipping, thermal protection
Frequency Response On-Axis
29Hz - 150Hz
Low Frequency Driver
210mm (8 in) extended travel with 38mm (1-1/2 in) voice-coil, aluminum former
Low Frequency Extension
29 Hz (DIN)
Finishes
Black Ash, Light Cherry, Dark Cherry
Inputs
From A/V receiver/processor or Paradigm X-Series Subwoofer Control Unit mono-sub out or preamp left/right output;From receiver/amplifier speaker terminals or main/satellite speaker terminals
Weight
25 lbs. (11 kg)
Dimensions HxWxD
13.25" × 9.75" × 15"
(34cm × 25cm × 38cm)
Specifications are subject to change without notice.
The Dolby curcuit in the Paradigm must be Dolby 7.1 or it will simply not be able to send the extra channel signals to the speakers. In otherwords you will not get the full 7.1 sound from two speakers added to a 5.1 amp.
use the line out or earphone plug and connect it to a receiver or other amp to check if it gives music.
do you see a loudspeaker icon on the right down side of the task bar? if yes then at least internally windows has recognized your system has a sound device.(which does not mean it has to work properly ;-)
if not, go through hardware detection( see the settings section: right-click on start button, goto settings, choose system or hardware icon then, next: device manager, double-click) wait if it shows any unknown devices, let it scan for drivers on the windows-cd or install cd for audio-card or the support-cd of the mainboard, install, reboot and sound check again,
if still the prob, please come back to fixya giving more details(model, mainboard, soundcard and operation system version)... good luck
If you're saying you hooked the Bose speakers directly to the Yamaha's amp instead of the prescribed way through their own bass module - they're cooked.
Most of these older machine had speaker switches on the front panel. Can you check what they are set to. It may be that both switches(A and B) are set in, or set out. this could present the problem you are having with no sound. turn on just one switch that corresponds the connections you have made on the rear (use speaker A) Another thing to check, is when you first turn on the amp, do you hear a relay click shortly after you switch on. If you don't hear this delayed click, then there may well be a problem in the output stages of the amp. If this is the case, then you will need to take it to a tech to have a look and see what has failed in the amp. Hope this info helps, if you have any questions, I am happy to try and help you further.
The more power the better as far as amplifiers go, underpowering speakers causes clipping and burns up voice coils.
Having a high power reserve means you have higher headroom for transients, with more power the amp will be able to handle transients better and will not be running at full output all the time in order to get desired volume levels, hence more headroom.
If you want to go with quality go with components, a seperate dedicated high quality amplifier such as a haffler, crest, etc., amps you find powering monitors in studios.
It all depends what you want.
since it still thumps i suspect the speaker is ok, but i suspect you have an electronic problem in the amp. since it is a powered sup & has the ability to auto turn on it has electronic circuits inside, take it to a service center for an estimate
thanks for your response, I am thinking of buying the part and keeping it aside until dday. Is there any danger of damaging other componenets if I wait for it to stop working before replacing it?
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