Probe light stays on. Doesn't turn off, even when you push probe button. Clock won't display, however oven still works.
Sounds like the control board is not communicating correctly with the rest of the unit, consult a professional.
have your electronic timer sent for repairs, go on internet at ApplianceTomers.com
SOURCE: oven wont work
If the sensor were bad, the unit would throw a fault code. On the back of the range, near the top, there should be a tech sheet for you to use to troubleshoot the range. It sounds like a thermal sensor may have opened up. Consult that tech sheet, it should point you in the right direction.
SOURCE: Digital oven temperate is wrong
Yes, that is the probe that sends info to the controller.
If it's not bad, then the controller is, but normally it's the probe.
Check that the controller has not been incorrectly calibrated before you change the probe out, although most do not allow a swing of more than 15-20 degrees. Yours may allow more though.
I am guessing you measured the actual temperature, to the set point temperature, with a know good thermometer.
SOURCE: door locked after shutting down cleaning cycle earlier than
The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door.
Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On the heat sensitive style of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid. In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself.
If you've interrupted the clean cycle or have accidentally set the clean cycle with the oven door open, the latch may have engaged and now the door can't be closed because it will hit the latch. There may be a door activated* switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again.
Hey friend, thanks for your post!
I see that your Electrolux wall oven is displaying an "F14" error code. "F14" stands for display tail missing, which means you could have an issue within your main control board or keypad. I would perform a reset on your appliance which can be done by flipping your household circuit breaker off for roughly ten minutes. If that does not correct the issue I would suggest seeking a professional to come out properly diagnose and repair your appliance. I hope this is helpful. -Matt
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