Bearings on a indest wie 167 washing machine

Follow these procedures to remove the back access cover on an Indesit WIE 167 washing machine and replace the belt:

Disconnect the washer from the electrical outlet and turn off the water supply.

Move the washing machine away from the wall so that the back can be accessed.

Find the screws that secure the rear access cover. Often, they are positioned throughout the cover's perimeter.

Remove the screws using a screwdriver and store them in a secure location.

Carefully remove the washing machine's back access cover. Using a flat instrument, such as a putty knife or a scraper, to pull the cover away from the machine may be useful.

Once the cover is removed, the belt should be accessible. Remove the old belt from the machine with care.

Put the replacement belt on both the motor and drum pulleys.

Align the back access panel with the washing machine and secure the screws to reattach it.

Reconnect the washing machine and activate the water supply.

Verify that the replacement belt works properly by putting the washing machine through a series of tests.

When servicing a washing machine, it is essential to observe all safety precautions. If you are uncertain or uncomfortable with any of these processes, it may be better to call a skilled technician or service center for assistance.

BIG JOB !!! The whole machine has to be stripped down. Ie/ The complete bowl assy has to be removed from the machine, the outer bowl separated from the inner bowl, the main seal removed, and the bearings pressed or knocked out of the housing in the rear of the outer tub. If the bearings have failed , it would be almost certain that the drum shaft has worn and or been damaged. You will need a set of bearings, drum spider shaft assy, and main seal. If its an older machine, it may not be worth it.

One of the biggest jobs to do on a washing machine. Remove the drum from the machine, remove the washer drum, knock out bearings, replace drum spider (shaft) fit the new bearings, and drum seal, put everything back together again. Job for a experienced engineer.

Hi

In a washing machine, the bearings protect the drive shaft from over rotation due to the forces applied to the washtub.
Unplug the washing machine from the power outlet. Turn off and disconnect the washer from the water pipes. Pull the machine forward so that you have easy access to the entire machine.

Unscrew the lid's top two screws and remove the machine's top panel.

Slide out the machine's back panel.

Slide off the fan belt and set it aside.

Unscrew the drive shaft's end bolt. This is the bolt that holds the pulley into position.

Remove the pulley by placing the screwdriver underneath it and gently leveraging it off.

Remove the drum's three bolts that hold its spider bracket into place. If the bolts are sticking use, rust remover and degreaser to loosen them. Do not apply too much pressure to the brackets or you will strip them.

Tap the spider joint gently with a hammer while pulling on it. The entire joint and the bearings should slide off.

Clean up the spider shaft, removing all rust and debris using cloth diapers and rust remover and degreaser solutions.

Tap the new bearings into place.

Tap the new drive shaft seal into place. The drive shaft seal should always be replaced with the bearings to ensure water-tight protection for the machinery.

Reassemble to washer.

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.
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it will definitely be the bearings and possibly the spider as well. the spider is attached to the bowl. the spider is made of aluminum and they corrode all the time. open the door to the machine and grab hold of the steel bowl, has it got movement on it. if it has then the spider and bearings are faulty, also the main shaft seal will need replacing.nearly every time i went to an LG 8013f that was noisy it was the bearings and or spider. hope this helps. please reply 4 more help. good luck.

They come complete on spider assembly on some models..Check utube video. Or espares.co.uk for parts cost 1st...

This could be the bearings.

If it is you have two options:
1 - Buy another washing machine
2 - DIY possible for about £30 with all the RIGHT TOOLS, £100 if doing it properly. And even with the right tools this will take you about 3 hours, probably more.

To replace the bearings you NEED to have:
1) The parts - The replacement bearing kit (£30) and hotpoint recommend a new spider (£65) as well.
2) A tool to push the drum shaft from the casing.
3) A tool to remove the beaings. It is possible to buy a new rear casing with the bearings already fitted for about £70.
4) Patience and a supply of tea!

Method
1 - disconnect everything and I mean everything see number 2.
2 - remove the drum casing from the chasis
3 - take off the pulley wheel
4 - open the casing
5 - remove the drum from the casing. DO NOT USE A HAMMER as the shaft deforms very easily (good job I've a new "spider"!)
6 - fit new "spider" if using. Here is where you find the bolts are rusted completely solid from spider to drum and require drilling out.
7 - remove bearings from casing (hence the need for the bearing removal tool)
8 - fit new bearings and rebuild machine (hence the need for the bearing fitting tool)

However I stopped at number 7 due to not having the right tools and I have no idea how much the right tools cost.

Trust me, take option one! £100 is a third of a new machine!

I recently replaced my bearings and seal for about $60. I could have bought the bearing cheaper online but I was in a hurry. If you do a search online there are several blogs about replacing these bearings. Here is a link for a service manual for $ 18 http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=659075&PPStack=1 You pretty much have to disassemble the washer but it is not really that difficult depending on your mechanical experience. The manual should lay it all out for you. There are 2 notes on these frigidare washers: Sometimes the spider arms on the inner drum break and you will have to buy the complete inner drum assembly. I have heard they are warranted for 25 years, but they most likely will not warranty them if the owner does the work. Also, Frigidare does not list the bearings seperately, but you can buy the bearings from a bearing supply house, online or in your town. The bearing numbers are on the side of the old bearings when you remove them.
NOTE- The bearings that came out of mine were 6306-2Z and 6307-2Z (shielded) I replaced mine with 6306-2RS and 6307-2RS (sealed). The significance is that the shielded bearings offer minimal protection from water where the sealed bearings are built to seal out water/contaminants if you new seal ever fails. The seal I used was a CR15939 rubber coated seal.
If you need any other information, let me know
Hope this helps

To change the bearing(s) and/or seal on a Simpson 45S100C 5.5kg Front loading washing machine:
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1) Disconnect from the power, water etc. and find your self some space;
2) Remove the lid (two screws at back of machine) and the back panel. I also took off the concrete weight on top to give myself some more room and less weight to move;
3) Remove the fan belt;
4) Unscrew the bolt on the end of the drive shaft. This holds the pulley in place;
5) The pulley is pushed on to a V-bushing. It may be very hard to get off. I found the easiest way was to put a large screwdriver behind the pulley hub and the 'spider' bracket behind. Then use leverage to pop it off. The V-bushing should then slide off the shaft;
6) Remove the three bolts that hold the ends of the spider to the drum. I found these very hard to get moving and they are also awkwardly placed. Use a socket set and you may need a bit of rust-remover/degreaser (WD-40 in Australia);
7) Remove the three bolts holding the central part of the spider to the drum;
8) Tap the end of the drive shaft with a hammer while pulling on the spider. The whole spider and the bearings should slide off the shaft;
9) The spider holds two bearings (one next to the drum and one next to the pulley). I’d recommend replacing both. In my case and apparently in most cases it is the bearing closest to the drum that gets damaged, usually due to water leaking through the drive-shaft seal. The two bearings are different sizes 6205 and 6206. When ordering replacements, I’d recommend rubber sealed ‘RS’ bearings. There is also a shaft seal that sits between the larger bearing and the tub. The seal comes from Simpson ($25). The bearing can be bought from any bearing supply company and are about half the cost of the ‘official’ bearings, and probably better quality. I paid $16 for the 6205 and $20 for the 6206;
10) Knock out the old bearings. The correct way to do this is with bearing pullers etc, but I used a long steel rod (one of the transport locking rods that new machine’s come with) and a hammer (not even rubber). First knock out the large bearing and the drive shaft seal by inserting the rod through from the other bearing side and hit firmly while alternating the position of the force around the case of the bearing. I propped the spider against a brick to ensure the bearing and seal could pop out freely. Now turn around and repeat for the other bearing;
11) Clean up the spider and shaft, ensuring you remove any rust and debris;
12) Tap the new bearings into place. Again I used a hammer and firm tapping around the ring of the bearing;
13) Tap in the new drive shaft seal;
14) Reassemble.

You have to remove the outer tub assy from the cabinet then split the halfs, We're told the the bearings are part of the rear tub housing. You might be able to press out the bearings