Hitachi cs 33eb chainsaw wont run

this is a picture of a 014
looks basic..older model .. no safety features

starting all depends on
carby idle hi /low set correctly
air filter clean
clean fuel....fuel /oil mix
good spark
new spark plug if required
chain oil in oilier section
correct chain tension on the cutting bar

being a two stroke
and the engine has good compression
crank casing seals are in good condition

never have your body in line with the chain
it could run off the bar at startup ..flick .onto your arm or face

choke on
trigger lock on
hold the handle and pull cord handle ..firmly
let the weight of the chainsaw start itself
let the chainsaw go downwards till motor splutters
choke off
trigger lock on
drop the chainsaw downwards a few more times
and it should start

other way is put foot in the foot plate of the handle
and start sequence is the same

if not something is out of adjustment or needs servicing

when you put un mixed fuel into a tool that needs to have mixed fuel/oil (the oil acts as a lubricant) and the tool will run on no lube for a little bit but it quickly damages the rotating metal parts inside the tool , most times the cylinder/piston is the most effected by this , ive replaced a few pistons when this occurs , and sometimes it allows it run again , but its never as good as new again

repair - What should I check if my chainsaw fails to start ...

diy.stackexchange.com/.../what-should-i-check-if-my-chainsaw-fails-to-s...

Feb 26, 2013 - Does anybody have any idea what I can do to get my chainsaw started?... Clean carburetor and fuel lines, especially if it may contain old fuel. ... that prevents it from generating enough current to sustain repeated firing of the spark plug as the engine turns. ... Your muffler is pluged up your saw can't exhaust.

Stihl Chainsaw - starts but won't run - GardenWeb

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chainsaw won't start - any ideas? [Archive] - Straight Dxxe ...

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21 posts - ‎11 authors

Start by filling the fuel tank with a fresh mix of 50-1, fill the chain oil tank with non fling chain oil, sit the saw on the ground with the bar away from any obstructions, engage the chainbrake, switch the ignition on, press the fuel bulb as many times as it takes to 3/4 fill the bulb, pull the choke out, this should also engage the fast idle, crank the engine until it fires once, it will not run on choke, it is importent at this point you must push the choke back in, now crank the engine until it runs, flick the trigger to allow the saw to idle.

Check the fuel filter, air cleaner, and muffler for plugging. Check the fuel lines for decay or other problems. Make sure that you have fresh fuel mix in the tank (50:1 ratio). Mix the fuel/oil in it's own container and shake the container thoroughly just before adding to the tank each time to prevent oil starvation. When you were cleaning the carburetor, did you check the condition of the lower diaphragm for flexibility with no holes or cracks? Turn both jet screws CW to stops (lightly), then back each out CCW 1-1/2 turns. Start the engine and allow to warm up, then pull the throttle full on. Adjust the H jet needle CW until the engine starts to speed up. Proper adjustment is when the engine 4-strokes unloaded, but immediately 2-strokes when cutting. Release the throttle and adjust L jet needle CW for better idle, but allows the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Hope this helps!

unleaded fuel is notorious for going stale,and it can leave a resinous coating in the carb-try running the saw on half choke with new gas and less oil eg 50 to 1 for say ten minutes,this should clear the gunk out-if this does not work,you have two choices-strip and clean the carb,or adjust the H (high) scew on the carb anti-clockwise by a quarter turn a time till it revs out full bore-good idea to remove the chain and wear ear defenders when adjusting-and always use a chainsaw at its max rpm,or you run the risk of "kickback"

Clean the muffler spark arrestor screen and check the cylinder port for carbon build-up at the upper edge. Try presetting both carburetor H and L adjustments (from lightly CW stops) 1-1/2 turns CCW each. Start the engine and allow to warm up. Pull the throttle wide open and adjust H CW until the engine speed increases, but still 4-stroking. Correct setting is when the engine 4-strokes, but immediately 2-strokes when cutting. Allow to idle and adjust L for smoother running, yet allows the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Set idle speed to keep the engine running, but doesn't try to move the chain. You may have to look closer at your carburetor if the above doesn't help. Go to:
http://www.drystacked.com
for an excellent article (but poor pix) on Walbro carburetors, but related to most all 2-stroke carburetors. Hope this helps!

Here are a few things to consider :
- fresh fuel ratio 40:1
-new spark plug
-choke not sticking
-air fuel mixture correct
-bar and chain oil tank full, oil getting on chain
-bar sprocket in good shape getting lubed.
Please let me know what you find.

INFO:
-Remove Carb and clean, you have a high speed fuel port clogged.

NOTE:
This would also be a good time to replace your fuel lines, Take photos before you start.

RECOMENDATIONS:
-Drain all fuel from the Saws fuel tank.
-Remove and REPLACE with a NEW spark plug.
-Remove and RELPACE with a NEW Air filter.
-With spark plug and air filter removed and fuel drained pull the starting cord many times 12 or so to ensure there is no fuel in the chamber and also check for a spark at the plug.
-RE-MIX WITH NEW FUEL your 2 cycle oil to the correct ratio in a clean fuel can. it is OK to dump some in the Saws fuel tank slosh around and dump out in an approved container for disposal.
-Hold off on putting back on the air filter until you have had it running.

Hope this Tip Helps.

R/
David

It needs spark, fuel and compression to run, which is missing?
Lets start with spark. Replace the plug (very inexpensive and great insurance), then do this:
Ignition Coil Test by SmallEng.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7WNBDRG4C4
You may need to use a jumper wire between the threaded part of the plug and the cooling fins. You do not have to bend up the electrode.

Before we get to fuel please download and follow the start procedure in your Operator's Manual here:
HusqvarnaUSA.com
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/
Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers)
Serial number decode – useful when downloading IPLs and Manuals
06 1500198
06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000)
15 = week produced - March
00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week
I own a Husky 359 that 1 time I forgot to set the fast idle (close then open choke). It was near impossible to start. I have missed the initial attempt to fire and flooded it too, again almost impossible to start.

If it has spark and the start procedure fails, put a teaspoon of fuel mix in the carburetor throat, open the choke, and pull. Does it fire and attempt to start? Yes it probably has a fuel delivery problem. Please repost with what you did and we will continue. HTH
Lou
IMO regardless of what your manual says ( yours probably 50:1) all 2-cycle engines should be operated on 50:1 (1 gallon of premium fuel to 2.6 ounces of quality 2-cycle engine oil). Once adjusted for this mix they start easier, pollute a bunch less, and do not foul out plugs, cylinders, or mufflers. Run lean conditions are most often caused by dirty air filters, air leaks not detected by the operator, or failing to add any oil to the fuel in the tank. Using a 32:1 mix prevents none of these occurring! I use a Pioneer chainsaw I purchased new early 1980 with a 50:1 mix.