Hotpoint frig cxs25gr freezing food

SOURCE: water pooling and freezing inside bottom freezer

I had the same problem with my LRFC25750 and have finally figured out what's happening! The water that is pooling and freezing on the bottom of the freezer is definitely coming from the defrost cycle. It is pooling inside the freezer compartment because the drain inside the back of the freezer intended to carry the defrost water down to the external evaporator tray underneath is blocked with ice. As a result, the defrost water from the coils overflows the collector under the coils and runs down the inside back of the freezer, pools on the bottom, and re-freezes when the cycle is over. this continues until there's so much ice on the bottom that the water from next defrost cycle runs out on the floor. The "easy" solution is to unplug the unit and let it completely melt out (this could take 24-36 hours). I couldn't wait, so I removed the freezer drawers and their tracks and pulled out the back panel inside the freezer -- saw the ice in the collector and blocking the drain and I melted it away with hot water and verified that water could now flow down to the external evaporator tray. Unless you want to do this, I'd say give it a good 24-36 hours for all the ice to melt away. I think it all started when we left the freezer door ajar for a whole day and probably had a lot of frost build-up on the coils. The next defrost cycle was not enough to clear all the frost and things began to build up from there. Once the drain is frozen, though, you're finished -- the defrost heater doesn;t reach down that far and you have to melt it down completely or it will continue to leak forever. I've heard that you can get a drain heater to ensure that the drain never freezes over or at least so that it is sure to clear with each defrost cycle. I'll post an update if I locate one.

Starnley Johnwells

• 1031 Answers
• Posted on Mar 29, 2009

SOURCE: Bosch Side by Side, top shelves dont freeze food, bottom does

majority of refrigerators today are equipped with an automatic icemaker. The water valve supplying the icemaker is a key component of the icemaking system, and it should be the first thing you check if the icemaker's performance is erratic or if the icemaker stops working. When the icemaker calls for ice, its switch closes an electrical circuit and energizes the solenoid-operated water valve. This allows water to flow through the valve and into the ice cube tray. The water is frozen into cubes, and the cubes are dumped into the ice bin. As time passes, strange things may happen to the refrigerator's icemaking capability. The cubes may be small or there may be a solid chunk of ice instead of individual cubes. It's also possible that the icemaker will stop working. These are all signs of a malfunctioning water valve. The valve is equipped with a screen on its inlet to remove minerals and sediments in the water supply. Over time, minerals and sediment build up on the screen and restrict flow through the valve, or even block it completely. Minerals that make it through the screen can cause the valve to stick in the open position, overfilling the ice cube tray in the process. This is a common problem in areas with hard water, but it can happen just about anywhere. Another malfunction that will cause the icemaker to stop working is a break in the solenoid coil winding. This is known as an open coil. The coil winding generates a magnetic field as current passes through it, and this magnetic field opens the plunger valve that controls water flow. A break in the coil winding stops current flow and this prevents the valve from operating. Test And Inspect The icemaker's valve is easy to inspect and test. First, gently pull the refrigerator away from the wall, and unplug it. Turn off the water supply to the icemaker by closing the shut-off valve in the copper waterline leading to the valve (Fig. 1). Use a screwdriver or nutdriver to remove the rear lower access panel from the refrigerator's back. Next, remove the fill tubing from the water valve. Use a wrench to loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting on the inlet side of the valve (above). Place a container under the valve to catch the small amount of water that will spill from the valve and tubing. Now use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw holding the valve's mounting bracket to the refrigerator cabinet (Fig. 2). Pull the valve out of the compartment and remove the tube on the valve's outlet. Then, remove the solenoid's electrical contacts (Fig. 3).

SOURCE: Freezer and icemaker freezes, jams.

I have run into this before and found it very helpful to re-level the refrigerator. By leaning the fridge back toward the wall about an inch helped keep the water and ice in the tray. Remember to remove items that block air flow in the freezer. Remove the ice bin and clean it then start over with the fridge leaning back a little. Hope this helps.

SOURCE: Hotpoint fridge problem, warm fride, but freezer working good

Fridge along bottom shelves is much colder than the very top shelf which has milk etc., leading to spoilage. Fridge is at highest setting. In the upper left rear of the fridge compartment, is a cover for what I believe to be a circulatory fan. However, trying to remove this cover is difficult.
It seems that the clip nuts to which the two (2) small capscrews fasten are free wheeling and not allowing me easy access to the motor.

Please advise.

My model no. is HSS221FMD WW

SOURCE: Food in refrig crispers freezes. Top of freezer too warm.

Good day,
You are right about it being little or no air circulation. There is a fan motor in the freezer, which you can access by removing the rear panel of the freezer panel.
That's the good news. The bad news it is a DC variable speed motor controlled thru a thermistor and powered from the motherboard located in the back wall of the refrigerator.
You can remove and take the motor to an appliance parts house that deals in GE parts. If they determine the motor is bad, then you could effect a repair.
If not the machine is too complex, and some parts so expensive that repair is best left to a GE qualified pro.