Replacing boiler I'm replacing boiler but am having trouble removing the steamer valve "full crock" (brass) from the old boiler assm.

I would say you are not far off with your opinion

Hi just a tip from experience, grind the coffee fine and keep the spout ( where the coffee comes out) very near the cup, while making the coffee.
Kolbrun

I'm assuming your saying you have hot water heat and you're having trouble with the broiler or stoppage in the pipes leading from the boiler to your wall radiators. Every household boiler I've seen has been very old and isn't worth replacing. If you decide to replace it, you will be replacing more than just the boiler. You'll be replacing many copper lines as well. The solution is usually changing to some alternative style heating such as electric baseboard with individual thermostats.

Im assuming that--
you waited long enough for the valve to open
you used the manual lever to check for flow
same thermostat
boiler isn't off on reset
theres power to the boiler
Do you hear the valve energize? If not--
The orange wires are interchangeable so it dosnt matter. the zone valve is normally closed so it wont open unless it gets power from a call for heat. Follow the blue and brown wires down to the control and make sure they aren't cracked. Check for water in control panel. Pull relay and look for small soot mark inside (blown).If wires have been spliced at any point remove wire nuts restrip wire and use NEW wire nuts to reconnect.At control remove wires one at a time clip and strip and reconnect. make sure the wire is wrapped around screw and tighten. If valve still isn't opening check the corresponding TT terminal connections clip and strip and reconnect.Still no water? With wires removed jump the TT terminals. If it powers after at least 15 sec then it may be either you thermostat or the wire going to it.
It could also be on the water side. If the plunger inside the valve body is stuck closed or clogged you can either isolate and drain the zone, remove the brass plug and dig around or buy a zone valve WITH the brass body. isolate and drain the zone, sweat off the old one and sweat on a new one. I know...good times :-{

Which turbomax, as there a two different models. The more modern one, with the brass CPL diverter valve, located at the front left of the boiler, was very prone sticking & jamming, this would restrict flow through the hot water circuit in the boiler, and cause cycling. Vaillant actually modified the diverter. You can identify, if it is the old type, as there is a very small hole in the middle of the diverter on the old ones, probable no more than 1mm-2mm wide. The modfied one, is much bigger approx 5mm wide. If old type, replace as this usally sorts the problem

Hi,

I think you have to replace the steam valve.

Have you descale your machine regulary?
How old is your machine?

Maybe your boiler have to be replaced:-(

two pipes coming into boiler on right hand side have brass block valves with a small round recess. These two valves are linked with a stainless fill hose.

Inside the recess on each valve is a small slot, there is a "key" with the boiler but prob lost with the manual. The advantage of the key is its sized so you wont be poking it in the wrong place!

Using a screwdriver turn both slots throug 90 degrees, you will hear water running through. Sometimes one valve is left open so try a combination until the watert runs.

Keep an eye on the pressure gauge and dont let it get too high, if you have no idea of setting pressure head for about 1bar.

Hi,

Do you have any type number on the machine?

Check the pressure guage. Typically the pressure in a water boiler should not be more than 20 psi. If you are approaching 30, the relief valve is doing it's job. I would replace or adjust the automatic water feed if the pressure is high. Always replace the boiler relief valve. Tap on the expansion tank, it should sound hollow. Replace it if it is full of water. If you have one of the old expansion tank that has no bladder in it, drain it.

To remedy this, I did the following:
1) Removed screws from: a) Lower area of handle (1 screw), b) Top of steamer, under round rubber flap around fill hole (2 screws), c) Front of steamer where nozzles attach (2 screws)
2) Removed back of handle, top of steamer, front of steamer where nozzles attach 
3) Once all parts are removed, you can see a brass button that is pushed by the trigger
4) Using a needle-nose pliers, grasp and rotate the button several times in both directions (you may hear it cranking against the interior spring). Do this until it turns fairly easily with the pliers.
5) Once this is done, you fill find that the brass button can be very slightly depressed with a bit of force. You may also need/want to unfold a large paper clip to push into the nozzle hole to help unsticking the brass button (not sure if that helped in my case, but it was something I tried along the way). When the brass button moves in and out (again, it won't move much), the steam release mechanism is unstuck!
6) Reassemble all parts (everything snaps back neatly into place).
This worked for my unit!