Red short circuit light is on checked voltage with meter shows correct 13.8 when a load is applied it stops working what to do?

disconnect the earth wire from the battery and place a multi meter in the circuit and read the current draw through the current (AMPs) section of the meter. That will tell you what is drawing current and how much.. Things to check include the glove box light is off, boot light is off. the radio amp is off when the ignition is off. When you have done that hook the multimeter across the battery after replacing the earth wire ( red lead to positive and black lead to negative) and start the engine hold RPM at around 1200 and read the voltage in the battery It should be 14.5 volts dc now set the multimeter to read ac and see if you have any voltage there IT should be 0 voltage . That will show that the alternator and rectifier diodes are ok. Check that the drive belt is in good condition and tensioned right.. You say 3 batteries in 13 months . How many have been brand new out of the battery shop type and how many are new to you from some place else. If they have not been new as off the shelf new then have a load test done on the battery as it may have an internal short

DTC B0790 Transfer Case Neutral Indicator Circuit Malfunction
The Neutral indicator circuit consists of an ignition 3 voltage circuit and a Neutral indicator control circuit. When the Neutral mode has been selected by the driver, current is supplied to the Neutral indicator by the ignition 3 voltage circuit, traveling through the Neutral indicator LED at which time the transfer case shift control module supplies the ground through the Neutral indicator control circuit. This DTC detects an open, short to ground, or a short to voltage.
2
Install a scan tool.
Turn the ignition ON, with the engine OFF.
With the scan tool, command the Neutral Indicator Light ON and OFF.
Does the Neutral Indicator Light turn ON and OFF with each command?
YES - Go to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems
NO - Go to Step 3
Turn the ignition OFF.
Remove the transfer case select switch.
Disconnect the connector on the transfer case select switch.
Turn the ignition ON.
Probe the ignition 3 voltage circuit with a DMM that is connected to a good ground.
Does the DMM indicate battery voltage?
YES - Go to Step 4
NO - Go to Step 10

5
Does the DMM continue to indicate battery voltage with each command?
YES - Go to Step 7
NO - Go to Step 6
6
Test the neutral indicator control circuit for a short to voltage or an open. Refer to Testing for Continuity and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
YES - Go to Step 13
NO - Go to Step 9
7
Test the control circuit of the neutral indicator for a short to ground. Refer to Testing for Short to Ground and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 13
Go to Step 9
8
Inspect for poor connections at the transfer case shift control switch. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 13
Go to Step 11
9
Inspect for poor connections at the harness connector of the transfer case shift control module. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 13
Go to Step 12
10
Repair the ignition 3 voltage circuit of the transfer case select switch for an open, a high resistance, or a short to ground. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you complete the repair?
Go to Step 13
--
11
Replace the transfer case select switch. Refer to Transfer Case Shift Control Switch Replacement .
Did you complete the repair?
Go to Step 13
--
12
Replace the transfer case shift control module. Refer to Control Module References in Computer/Integrating Systems for replacement, setup, and programming.
Did you complete the repair?
Go to Step 13
--
13
Use the scan tool in order to clear the DTCs.
Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC as specified in the supporting text.
Does the DTC set?
Go to Step 2
System OK

This seems to be a problem with grounding of those circuits, notice that they are all in the instrument panel and maybe they share a common ground. Are they lit with normal intensity? Does the intensity go up and down if you apply the brake, open or close a door? I doubt that all 3 lights are on for their normal function such as to warn you about battery not being charged, or brake is on. Get a wiring diagram and look into the instrument panel to see how these circuits are grounded though this may be difficult to sort out. You many need assistance from someone with experience.

Contacts inside where the bulb attains its energy from need to be inspected. Burnt contacts are very common on these vehicles ie: the power that is present does not have a complete circuit path to make it through the load (bulb)

Hi and welcome to FixYa I am Kelly. Your red LED is telling you that it was 1. overloaded. 2. has low voltage 3. overheated or 4. short in the powered circuit.

OVERLOAD LED (red): Lights up if the generator experiences
a load greater than the rated output, low voltage, overheats or
the powered circuit experiences a short. The output is stopped
even though the engine keeps running.

I do not know which of the 4 conditions caused your red light. If you have the read light with no load I would suspect low voltage from the generator / inverter. If it overheated you will also get the Red LED with no load.

Thanks for choosing FixYa.

Kelly

Not necessarily. Sometimes when using a volt meter, a circuit can play a trick on you. Let's take a points type ignition system on the points side of the coil. When the points are open, you'll read battery voltage. When the points are closed, you'll read no voltage. The reason, the voltage will take the path of least resistance and todays modern meters are built with a high impedance so as on to load down a circuit. If it were a low impedance meter, when you touched the circuit, the meter would draw too much current and cause small electronic devices within the circuit to burn up. So, you meter may have been deceiving you.

Now, if you're going to test voltage like that, do it at the battery. Go across your battery with the meter. red to positive, black to neg. With the swith off, you'll read battery voltage at the switch. When you turn the switch on, you will read zero right there. I'd go to the fuse panel and check the voltage on the main circuit breaker. Matter of fact, when you turn the switch on, you should be able to hear and feel the main breaker break the circuit. Usually makes a slight "ping" sound and then resets after about two minutes or so. If the short has not been corrected, it'll simply trip again.

Check all your fuses, they probably will not be blown. This is telling your that it's something that is on the main circuit breaker that is not fuse protected. Now, what that might be, I have no idea as I don't have a schematic for your bike. If you have a light bar on your bike that runs directly off the output of the main breaker, this could be the culprit. It's something that runs directly off the main breaker not through a fuse. You'll just have to look and try to find a schematic.

Good Luck
Steve

Take the triangular cover off the left side of the frame. Behind it, you'll find a circuit breaker. This is the main circuit breaker. Is this what is clicking? If so, you've got a short somewhere if it clicks the entire time you've got the switch in the on position. If the clicking only occurs when you attempt to start the bike, it could still be your battery.

Anytime you have a problem starting a bike, the first thing to check is the battery. A battery must be checked under a load. A prime example of this is you have a flashlight that shines very dimly. Yet if you use a meter to check the battery, it shows 1.5 volts but when you put it back in the flashlight, the flashlight shines dimly. This is because a battery will sometimes show full voltage until a load is put on it. In a multicell battery like an automotive battery or motorcycle battery, you can have one cell shorting out on you when you apply a load to the battery. Each cell produces two volts. So when one cell shorts, you battery voltage drops to 10 volts. Your bike may still crank over because in DC circuitry, if the voltage fall low, the device will simply draw more current in an attempt to run. This heavy current draw from the battery under low voltage conditions is what causes battery cables to get extremely hot and smoke. Once the battery cable smokes, the starter has been ruined.

So, my advice is to take the battery to an automotive parts house and have it load tested. If it test good, reconnect it and turn on the switch. If the circuit breaker is clicking when the switch is on, you've got a short somewhere that is tripping out the circuit breaker. The circuit breakers Harley uses are self-resetting. This mean that it will sense a high current draw and break with a click. After a few minutes, it will cool and reset itself. If the high current load is still present, it'll trip again with a click. It'll continue this until you remove the load or turn off the switch.

Good Luck
Steve

Check for consumers staying on such as interior lights , radio etc.. To check for current draw, you need an AMP meter. remove the negative battery terminal. Connect one amp meter lead to the battery negative terminal and the other to the earth cable. Hold the cable against the battery negative cable, close all doors and press bonnet switch to closed position. Activate the alarm and wait for it to arm. Once it has armed itself, separate the earth cable from the battery terminal keeping the amp meter connected. read the current draw. Should be less then 100 milli amps. Usually +- 40ma. To check which circuit has current draw remove one fuse at a time and check if current draw drops. A drop in current draw will indicate that the problem is on that fuses circuit. Also check alternator charge rate. To check this hold a volt meter across the battery terminals. with engine off, should get battery voltage. Start the vehicle, battery voltage should rise to 13 -14v and maintain this voltage with the headlights on. The battery itself could be faulty, you would need to do a load test on the battery. Load tester needed to do this.

My Ionic Breeze would work for a short time after cleaning and the blue light would start flashing and the unit would stop working. I checked the wall cube power adapter with a volt meter. It was putting out only 10 volts instead of the needed 12 volts. It seems The Ionic Breeze needs a full 12-13 volts to work. So I went to Radio Shack and bought a universal 12 volt 800ma power adapter. I checked the voltage in the new adapter, it was 13 volts. This fixed the flashing blue light problem. However the Ionic Breeze produces harmful Ozone gas, so I don't use it anymore.