Kenmore 417-48102701 front end loader washer. Won't go into spin cycle? Any thoughts of what to look for?

SOURCE: washer won't spin fast, only slow

tyr removing the lower acees panel from the uint , ther is a "button trap" located there to catch debris from entering pump assy, chances are its clogged and if it cant drain all the water it wont go into high speed spin, also you MUST use an HE detergent. HE detergent specifically designed for front loading washers

SOURCE: wet clothes at end of spin cycle

sounds like your transmission is not working properly. check your warranty information. (should be in your owners manual) many of the whirlpool made top loaders came with a 5 year warranty on the transmission/gear case

SOURCE: noise/not draining on spin cycle

I had that problem and it was the drain pump trying to drain but it coulsn't because it had lint, plastic, 3 underwires a looney some costume jewellery stuck in the pump. By the pump underneath you'll see a black plastic boot leading away from the pump. disconnect this and inside you'll find the lint trap and if you dig you'll probably find the culprit that stopping your pump from moving. Put it all back together and Voila!

SOURCE: Kenmore Front loader Washer Problems

u need to remove the shipping bolts, found in the back of the washer, 4 long bolts used to hold the drum in place while transporting. we had same prob

SOURCE: Kenmore front load washer will not spin. Clothes come out wet.

The clothes are wet after spinning When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
Spin cycle
Siphoning
Water-inlet valve
Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning: 

• If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.



• If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. 

Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.