Electrical problems with a 2002 Satun SL 200, the electrical door locks dosn't work, the mirror adjustments dosn't work, the dome light dosn't work. The engine runs good. head lights work

SOURCE: Electrical problem

I just had the same issues. No headlights, interior lights, power door locks, radio controls on steering wheel, or dash lights. Pulled every fuse in cab and under hood, not a one was bad. I disconnected the battery terminals for a few minutes. When I reconnected them every thing was working.

SOURCE: 2002 BMW 325 - key locked in trunk

There are several suggestions out there on how to retrieve BMW keys from the trunk. Many of the ways I tried failed, and it takes 2 to 3 days to get a new key made up. In the coupe there is the center piece in the back seat that folds down. Then on the back wall there is material that will fold down that is held up with Velcro. Behind that you will find a rubber insulation that is mostly cut and looks like a door, but not all the way. Carefully cut the rubber to remove the piece. Now you will find a metal wall, but there is a large piece that is tack welded on. I got turned around and kicked it with the bottom of my foot and got 3 sides loose. Then a softball bat knocked the final side loose. Pull that out and trash it, the final barrier is the insulation that is held in place with plastic clips that can just be pushed down. After that you can a pretty large hole to work through and get the keys. Just put everything back in place other than the metal plate and you will never know anything was done.

SOURCE: Dome Light in Saturn SL/1 Not Working

turn the key on then push in on the plungers, also twist and turn them. with the key off the light is on a timer and will not go off right away. if the key is on the light should go on and off with plunger movment.

SOURCE: 98 Dodge Durango no electrical power

When the armed Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS) senses that the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, it enters its power-up mode. In the power-up mode the alarm system remains armed following a battery failure or disconnect. If the VTSS was armed prior to a battery disconnect or failure, the system will have to be actively or passively disarmed after the battery is reconnected. The alarm can be disarmed by locking the vehicle and turning the drivers door lock to the lock (arm) position. Wait a few minutes then unlock (disarm) the drivers door and the vehicle should start.
If the VTSS has been disabled in the high-line Central Timer Module (CTM), the VTSS feature must be re-enabled using the Chrysler DRB scan tool. The clicking you heard was probably from the CTM located behind the glove box.

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SOURCE: 2002 pt cruser has electrical

I recently had the original battery on my 2003 PT Cruiser GT finally go bad and I replaced it. In the process of it dying (and me having to jump it a couple times before I could get to the store to buy a new one), I lost my interior lights, the memory on the trip odometer, my power locks, my remote key fob capability, my radio/CD player, and the odometer display showed a "NO FUSE" message alternating with the overall mileage reading. http://www.ptcruiserlinks.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gifThe car still ran fine, but it was obvious I had blown a fuse or fuses.

I did some checking online to see if anyone had experienced this set of outages before (and the "NO FUSE" message) and there were several references to the IOD fuse, but no clear definitive answer on a) what it truly affected and b) how to replace it (since it's in a protective clip you pull up). Since I just did that and everything is restored, thought I'd share the info for those who might lose power to the above items and keep them from wasting a lot of money at the dealer for a simple repair. Here's the scoop:

1) I bought a fuse tester/puller at a local auto parts store, which enabled me to individually pull all the fuses that were labled as having anything to do with the interior lights, radio, or locks. This included those in the fuse box by the driver's left knee inside the car and a 40 amp fuse up in the power distribution box under the hood. All checked out good, so I strongly suspected the IOD was the culprit.

2) I never did find anything in the manual or online that said exactly what that fuse affects, other than it is used during initial transport from the factory to dealers to minimize the drain on the battery by pulling it up. To reiterate what I mentioned at the beginning of this book, I know it affects at least the following systems:

- Interior dome/reading lights (the dash lights, head- and tail-lights still work)
- Power locks (both the door switches and the remote fob capability)
- Radio/CD/Cassette player (though the unit will still show trim lighting)
- The trip odometer memory (which would reset each time the car was shut down)

3) I crossed my fingers that the IOD fuse was the cause, as I really didn't want to take it to the shop and pay big bucks. The yellow 20-amp IOD fuse is in the fuse box (power distribution center) under the hood and just behind the air filter housing. It stands out because it is encased in a protective clip that allows you to pull it up to break the circuit, but leave it in place for transport and not get lost. The challenge is getting it out of that clip. To make it a bit easier to access, I removed the housing top to the air filter, which is simple (disengage the clips on the left side and the right front side, and then the screw holding the retaining ring on the rubber hose on the back left side).

4) I found that taking a very small, thin screwdriver that I use for glasses screws worked well. You'll see a small rectangle opening in the top (where you'll be able to read the "20" on the fuse). I think a small curved tip screwdriver would work, too. Take the tip of your screwdriver and insert it in the opening, with the pressure up under the left side of the opening (the top is actually hinged, with the left side being where it clips down in place and the plastic hinges on the right). It takes a little effort, and I used my left hand to try and help unclip the left side of the clip while I applied the out/lifting pressure with the screwdriver. After a while I got it, and the top opened up to allow access to the fuse.

5) Took out the fuse, tested it--sure enough, it was bad. Popped in a new yellow 20 amp mini fuse, closed the top of the clip, reinserted the fuse into the fuse box by gently pushing down, and then checked things in the car. Voila! I had everything restored. http://www.ptcruiserlinks.com/forum/images/smilies/1st.gifYeah, baby! That was probably $100+ saved and it only cost me some time and one little fuse.

I know this was long, but hopefully it will help someone who is trying to figure out what the heck is going on with their electrical stuff. I suspect this probably happens fairly often to folks and they just end up bringing the car in, especially when they've check all the other fuses properly labled for those accessories. Thanks much, and now it's time to get back to cruisin' in my PT GT!