When I turn the whole system on, the monitor displays the images for about half a second, then turns off (black screen). I have to hit the power button (for the monitor) for about 6 cycles. Each time, I have to wait till the screen appears, then goes black, then on it again till it stays that way.
SOURCE: ACER AL1914 LCD Monitor goes black but green light stays on
The monitor is doing a self test a finding an error.
The lcd has three parts, the screen plate(windows)/the logic(vga)/the
inverter(power plug). Parts that go are the backlight ccfl's, behind
the plate, and parts of the inverter, ie capacitors, all three take a
bit of power from the inverter. The self test check that all the lights
are ok and the inverter is ok, else it switchs off, ie if 3/4 light
work it will switch off(my own case), hence the on chech error then
off, However sometime there are stages of on/off ie on/ but no screen
display, if that is the case the following may be of help...if you put
bright light at an angle close to lcd can you see a windows shadow,
text icons etc, ie still logic power passing,then .... (from a.n.
other) after two weeks searching I finally find doctor living stone
http://www.aplusperfect.com/articles/lcd_capacitor_repair more fun with
paulbtorrent
the takening the case bit off is like opening your wallet a second time
after buying a new LCD, but you must! smallest two screw driver's flat
headed, practice using two pennies stuck together()with your fingers
after, one little () move and inch and {} again, with the case , it
does not break, just need to lever open
[once open you realize they somehow put that old briefcase clip
inside!] also note the bright light test to do first to see if can see
a windows screen , and that capacitors are one for a number of things
that a make a inverter work! there a transistors as well, given that
however, to replace all the capacitors on my inverter, was 11
capacitors, cost me $11 (uk ebay) and already had the iron and solder.
So only cost me me $11 to try and see but no luck , still fun and I
still can see the screen for 2 sec' at a time plus I have a spare set
of caps now in the event that the new one do go burst! you have to
laugh really, what next , a new on/off button, as you work though the
whole inverter mmmMMMMmmmMMMMmmmMMMMTim
Berners-leeMMMMMmmmmMMMMMmmmmcome back all is not
wellMMMMMMMMMMnnnnnnweek later land sight
mmmmmMMMMMMMMMmmmmgggggggg(from
another a.n other)Generally, if the screen went out quickly, it was the
inverter. If it went out over a slow period of time (flickering etc..)
I would bet it is the lamp.replaceing the lamp should be pretty
challenging. as that requires complete breakdown of your LCD,
extraction of your dead lamp, and soldering in your new lamp... but I
would like to say that I it did this after realizing it's 2 x kitchen
strips inside [========] with wires that can connect back to the
inverter with out any desoldering(ie kit assembly/dis) with the outter
case remove (glass plate safe away) I could reconnect and see that 3/4
were working (i!i hardcard ) cause the inverter to switch off after a
secound ! order bult and replace and going
to cheap and see if I can get away with fitting a 15" in my 19' as it a
1/3 of the price ! the market as drop out there, hope the inverter does
not miss the length, or the screen out
put.http://www.lcdparts.net/howto/troubleshooting/LaptopCCFL1.aspx OR
MONITOR
Hi hope your monitor issue has resolved. I would suspect the
problem is a hardware issue then a software setting. Since the monitor is over
three and half years old, if your monitor is a LCD with CCFL back light and had
been used almost every day, there may be 3 possible hardware issues. First is
the internal power supply, that can go wrong due to heating problem within the
monitor, this problem usually cause the monitor to display poor quality picture
and may show interference lines on screen prior failure. Secondly, it may be
the inverter that drives the back light, which may fail due to the safety
circuit kicks in, because it involves with high voltages. Thirdly it may be the
backlight itself, which is like most compact CCFL energy saving lamps that
flickers or turn itself off when it reaches the end of its service life. This problem
usually caused the monitor to show redness or yellowness images prior failure.
All of these can be resolved by qualified electronic repairers, all the best.
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