My subwoofer lights flicker on the front green/red/green. Also a clicking sound. It smelled like an electrical burn of some sort. no power surge. I took out the board and their is a black burn spot on the board. Can it be repaired?
Thank you, Daryl
I have the same problem, when i give more input power, the woofer goes on green, no problem When i give no input he goes after 15 min switching from red to green and the woofer make plopping sounds
I have the same problem, when i give more input power, the woofer goes on green, no problem When i give no input he goes after 15 min switching from red to green and the woofer make plopping sounds
The solution below with the condesator c42 is for rev1, i have a rev2D amplifier thats total differend print and components, do anyone an solution for a rev2D PB12?
The solution below with the condesator c42 is for rev1, i have a rev2D amplifier thats total differend print and components, do anyone an solution for a rev2D PB12?
The solution below with capacitor C42 is for REV1 amplifier, I have an REV2D with different print and components Do everyone had a solution for an REV2D PB12?
The solution below with capacitor C42 is for REV1 amplifier, I have an REV2D with different print and components Do everyone had a solution for an REV2D PB12?
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I had the same problem...replaced the C42 capacitor with one that I got from RS...fixed everything and all is well again. I only have moderate soldering skills, too, so if I can do it, so can you
Yes there are a variety of Capacitors that go bad on these amps - some have to be upgraded Volts wise and others are just the wrong value - it is a very poor designed amp to begin with . The amps do have issues that is for sure - That is where I step in - I can repair your amp and make it so it won't burn up (catch on fire) again. When the amp goes it burns a hole in the board - but it can be repaired. I have done several hundred and all customers are happy :) ... Look for my add here and also on ebay
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First try to find the source of your problem. The easiest way would be to try your sub with a different audio source to see if the problem still occurs but is sounds more like there's a problem with the receiver.
Here are the service manuals, you may what to read the service bulletin section. Most common failure in the PB10/12 is the blown ClassD amp module which you cannot get it anymore. This is how I fixed my: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/JBL%20PB-12%20mod/
More likely to be the Class D power amp module, but you should look through the service manual to make sure all the parts are installed correctly. My PB10 AMP module went out and you cannot get one anymore. http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/HOM/Service%20Manual/PB10%20sm.pdf
if your serial number starts with ha then it's probably a bad capacitor C72 . 6.8uf 100v np electrolytic. replace it with a higher voltage capacitor of the same value.
These subs have had many problems, all associated with the amplifier section. PB 12's with an "M" as part of the ser. no. were assembled in Mexico and these are the ones with the amp problems. JBL fixed mine and sent it back no charge, BUT it cost me nearly $100 to send it to them in the first place. I have another one that has had no problems at all. Try sending it back for repair. At best you'll get a rebuilt unit back, at worst a substantial discount from the company for a new sub.
I have the same problem, when i give more input power, the woofer goes on green, no problem
When i give no input he goes after 15 min switching from red to green and the woofer make plopping sounds
The solution below with the condesator c42 is for rev1, i have a rev2D amplifier thats total differend print and components, do anyone an solution for a rev2D PB12?
The solution below with capacitor C42 is for REV1 amplifier, I have an REV2D with different print and components
Do everyone had a solution for an REV2D PB12?
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