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When he puts it into spin, does the water drain? If so, the pump is fine, as far as it not spinning, that is most likely either the coupler between the motor and the transmission, or the transmission itself.
To check the coupler, drain the washer, then pull the washer away from the wall and tilt it back on it's hind legs. Check to see that the rubber part of the coupler is intact and that the plastic parts are not stripped. Here's some pictures of the coupler http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Motor-Coupling/285753A/1195967
If the coupling is fine, and the motor is turning, then it's most likely the transmission, which you'd be best served having an appliance shop replace.
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
I'm assuming that you mean that the washer won.t spin with a load but will without one.
Two possibilities:
Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.
It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.
Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.
The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.
The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.
If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.
See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.
If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
If the motor coupler is OK, the problem could be the clutch:
Sears has a replacement clutch band kit.
See the following for how to pull the pump, motor and transmission.
As an aside, the long pole (agitator shaft) shouldn't turn if you hold it when the washer is in spin mode. Basically, the oil "friction" within the gearcase is turning the shaft when in spin mode and if you hold it, it shouldn't turn.
When the washer is in spin mode, the "drive tube" which turns the drum is driven by the clutch.
Also see the following for how these gearcases work and how the agitator shaft is released by the "agitate cams" when in spin mode.
If the coupler is definitely intact then yes the problem would be in the transmission or clutch. The clutch is the silver peice mounted on top of the transmission part#285785. If you put the unit into spin and tip it back and can see the clutch spinning then problem is probably just your clutch. If you see a lot of oil dripping then you would need transmission and clutch which come as an assembly. I think part number is 3360629. Also make sure the center of the coupler is not bored out where is slips on the transmission and motor shafts. Hope this helps _MJ_
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Look in the section for the motor, pump gearcase and you'll see the Motor Coupler.
Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.
It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.
Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.
The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.
The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump. This is likely why the machine drains.
If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.
See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.
If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
These washers use a reversing motor for agitating (motor turns one way)
and the drain / spin cycle (the motor turns the other way).
Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.
It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.
Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit
on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission
input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.
The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.
The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.
If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to
send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.
See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.
If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use
a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works
well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts
and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure
equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece
to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up
right, the coupler could be damaged.
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
While you have the cabinet off, I'd also check the connection between the motor and pump and look for any blockage in the pump.
Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.
It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.
Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.
The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.
The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.
If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.
See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.
If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action
Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
The top load, direct drive, neutral drain Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the transmission and motor.
When the motor goes into drain / spin mode, it reverses and drives the pump to drain the washer.
If the motor coupler is damaged / broken, the motor cannot get power to the transmission to agitate or spin.
This is a relatively easy fix for the basic Kenmore / Whirlpool washers.
Follow the instructions for removing the cabinet and pulling the pump, motor and motor mounting plate.
The coupler has two plastic pieces with three prongs each. In between is the rubber coupler with six holes.
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
my washer wouldn't spin or drain and it was a baby sock stuck in the pump! unplug everything and then take the hoses off and look in the pump! hope this helps!
If it is draining then the motor is turning the pump so it is ok.
This washer has no belt so that is not the problem.
Remove the cabinet and bypass the lid switch wires and put into a spin. Watch the clutch to see if it is turning. If the clutch housing is not turning and you know for sure the coupler is not broken then you need a new transmission. If the clutch housing is turning but the basket is not spinning you have something binding the basket or you need a new basket drive and clutch.
If you have only looked at the coupler from underneath you may not be able to tell if it is broken in the center. If it is broken again your transmission is not staying in neutral drain until the water is drained. That means it is going into spin with full load of clothes and water. This puts a lot of pressure on the coupler and causes them to fail prematurely. If this is the case you will need a new transmission.
Post back if you have any questions.
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