Before everyone tells me to check the batteries, or that the remote is bad, let me just say that I get the same results with both the original remote and my Harmony universal remote. Fresh batteries in both remotes and the TV does not respond to any commands. No interference between remote and TV. The TV seemed to have more and more difficulty "seeing" the remote(s), and then one day just stopped responding at all. TV works fine otherwise using the front panel controls. Unfortunately, the display aspect (size) is not available for adjustment from the front panel, which means some DVDs get cropped because it's not currently set for Full Screen mode. All inputs are component. My guess would be that the circuit which controls the IR receiver is not functional, or that the gain setting for that circuit needs to be turned up. I've perused the schematics, but I'm a Geophysicist and not an EE, so it's not clear to me if or how this can be adjusted. Any thoughts?
I had the same problem with my 34HF81 television. I had the TV for about 8 years. The IR sensor was working intermittent for awhile then finally gave out. I had to resort to controlling the volume and turning the television on/off remotely. The channel was changed through a digital cable box so that wasn't a problem. Changing the volume, input sources had to be done manually and without the remote control you cannot use the mute or 1/2 mute feature.
You will need to have a repair man pay a visit, as the TV is too heavy to carry to a shop (not worth the chance of damaging it). He removed the back to access the remote control receiver component. This component is mounted to the front of the TV by 2 separate screws.
He did some tests on IR component to confirm the part was bad. If you are using the Toshiba remote or other remote and are able to control a VCR or Stereo receiver then the TV's IR component is probably faulty.
The IR component is generic to most TVs so he removed the faulty one and replaced it with a new one. The entire repair should not take more than 1 hour (45 minutes). Cost should be no more than the shop labor cost with the IR component is nominal compared to the labor cost.
I don't know of any adjustments for the IR receiver but the receiver itself could have gone bad or something may be blocking the IR lens not letting the IR signal get through. Maybe (but unusual) there may be a cold solder joint in the IR circuit. Sometimes dust will collect on the inside of the IR lens causing this problem. You can verify the operation of your remotes by holding them close to an AM radio receiver and pushing the buttons. You'll hear a popping sound through the radio speaker whenever a button is pushed. You may have to tune the radio up or down the band to pick up the remote's signal. Stargazer
The procedure to check the remote control for its perfect working is described at a tip I've given and published by Fixya on Google. Type "gopakumarg43" on google search box, and get into my profiles. There you can see 'Tips and How To's" line, click on it. You can read it there. OK.
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I have the same exact problem. I'd like to know what the easiest way is to the IR receiver. WIth the IR window being on the front, is there a simple way of getting to the IR receiver/control board from the from the front without removing the whole back cover and completely exposing the TV's guts? Also, I'd like to know if anyone has any idea how much an IR receiver would cost.
Thanks to all respondents.
I have the same problem with my TV. The remote tested fine. I checked the IR light by looking at it with a night vision scope. Every time I pushed a button I could see the IR emitter flash.
I started my IR receiver testing by taking off the entire back housing, which as far as I know is the only way to get to the IR circuit board. I then took out the circuit board that houses the IR detector and tested each component with an ohmmeter. The detector (looks like a LED light with a bluish tint) has continuity so does all the resistors and capacitors on the circuit. I don't know if that is the only test I can make with it out or if there is anything else I can test for. Radio Shack sales IR emitters and receivers for less than $5 for both emitter and receiver. My next idea is to test the main board. But I still really don't know what to test for. Any more ideas would be great.
how to replace the ir tv sensor
It looks like a defect in the TV. I have the same issue where the TV will not read the remote. The remote works fine for all other devices but will not work for the TV. It is really bad because the TV is stuck in TheatreWide stretched mode, and is cutting off my picture.
The Remote doesn't work. Won't turn on the tv or do any functions. Batteries are new. Maybe the remote is internally broken or maybe the tv sensor is not receiving signals. The buttons on the front of the tv are functional, but I need features beyond just Vol and Chan up & down. How do I determine if a new remote will work, BEFORE I buy a new remote?
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