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T-con board is at the bottom of your picture. It has a metal shield with I believe 2 screws that hold it down. It has those nice ribbon cables going to it.
Ghost imaging is usually caused by a lose connection on the LCD. You need to remove the front bezel and push on the ribbon cables till you find the defective cable. I put a piece of rubber surgical tube type object and put it on the defective cable and have the bezel hold it in place.. You can replace the LCD screen as well.. It's probably cheaper to replace the TV then the LCD. This worked for me several times. YouTube has videos about it too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H4sro4FMq18 Good Luck
You have a bad T-Con (timing control) Board or a problem with a cable going to it This link shows some examples to compare to and gives some repair info and pictures Bad T-Con Boards LVDS Cables and Ribbon Cables
This kind of symptoms is an indication of faulty T-con board. This board has a connector to the main board and to the panel. These connectors must be pull-out, inspect, and then re-insert and ensure that they are properly seat-in to isolate loose connection from fault. If the symptoms still persist, you have to replace this board to resolve the problem.
Opening the back cover will void the warranty. If your unit is still under warranty period, avail it because the manufacturer will fix it fro free.
Hope I helped you.
Have a nice day!
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I suspect you will find that there are bad capacitors on the power supply board. If you aren't handy with a soldering iron, however, I would not recommend this repair. It can be easy to permanently damage things. If you aren't afraid of that, however, give it a try.
There are two that I have found that typically fail (680 microfarad, 16 volt). They usually "bulge" on top after failing. I have found that the replacement value doesn't seem to be too critical. I wish I had written down the actual designators for these caps (maybe next time I repair one of these monitors).
WARNING! DISCONNECT POWER BEFORE DISASSEMBLING THE MONITOR AND DO NOT RECONNECT POWER UNTIL ALL SHIELDING IS REINSTALLED!!! DANGEROUS LINE VOLTAGE WILL BE EXPOSED!!!
Once you get the bezel apart and get down to the metal shielding, slide the shield on the right hand side to remove (arrows pointing to each other). There will be four connectors underneath this shield to power the backlight. Disconnect these four connectors, paying close attention to where they were connected.
Disconnect the small ribbon cable on the other side connecting to the front panel controls...There is a small black tab that will flip up to allow removal of the ribbon cable. CAUTION! THESE CABLES ARE DELICATE...DAMAGING THE CABLE OR THE CONNECTOR WILL DESTROY YOUR MONITOR.
There are four screws holding the power supply section to the LCD itself (two on each side). Once you remove these screws the rear shield (and power supply section) will start to separate from the LCD. There is another ribbon cable between the power supply section and the LCD panel...AGAIN...DO NOT DAMAGE THIS CABLE OR CONNECTOR! Squeeze the two black tabs on either side of this connector to remove.
You should now have the power supply board exposed. Remove the screws securing the power supply board to the shield. You will need to disconnect the connector attaching the AC power inlet to the board in order to access the top side...
The failed capacitors should be readily apparent. Replace them, re-assemble and test.
When the LCD Controller cable is diconnected from the LCD panel, the screen should be completely white due to the Liquid crystals do not have the bias voltage to block the backlight from coming through the front of the screen. Unless you have intermittent shorts circuits on the LCD controller board (part of the LCD panel) that load down the 5vdc (logic power supply). The capacitors on all the board look OK? See the pictures of bad caps in the monitors here and post back what you see on your boards so we can go further with troubleshooting. http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague http://www.badcaps.net
The white glow with no picture means that either the ribbon cable connection between the logic board and the monitor has come lose or dirty contacts, or the LCD Controller (T-CON) board (part of the LCD panel is not getting 5v or 12v depend on LCD panel from the logic board or the LCD controller board has blown fuse, see pictures here for guide (note pin on the LCD board with arrow mark is pin 1 and is the incoming DC power supply line): http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/LCD%20panel/?action=view¤t=DSCF0881.jpg
You may also want to look for bad caps (bulging top) on the logic board. There should be 5vdc feeding the logic board also.
where the hd leads go into that board remove the screws at the top and bottom as its one long unit top to bottom
unscrew metal shield as well
remove all cables from board 2 ribbons are locked and require clipping down then ribbon removes
flip board over remove metal can to expose board notice 2 TSOP chips at top look att the pins one should look dull and not shiny
to fix i used heatgun a quick blast on pins sorted problem out
mask off board and chip around with metal etc... to not damage board.
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