Have a kenmore he4 front load gas dryer. It would go completely dead like it had no power... intermittedly working... we replaced the control board. Seems to come on fine now however the end of cyc

Besides the thermal fuse, the thermistor, main control board, door locking system and the problems all over youtube and google, the dryer may last you about a year or so. That is if you only do laundry one a year. The HE4's are ****. Have both washer and dryer for about 5 years. I could now be a sears repair man with the amount of knowledge I had to digest while fixing these things. NEVER, NEVER again will I buy kenmore!

oh its nothing press those two buttons and bam your problem is sloved for the control panel

OK, if you are certain that the unit is receiving a power current, this will most defiantly confirm a major chip fault in in the main control board.

Try to wake the control by cutting the power to the unit for 5 minutes. if the damage isn't severe, this will either, reset the program or, render and error code. if both do not appear and the control remains blank or dead, after the reset, replace the main control board.

The F70 and F71 error codes on this model of washer indicates a communication problem between the user interface control board and the central control unit (main control board). These error codes can sometimes be caused by a power surge or glitch through the electrical lines. Try unplugging the washer to completely disconnect electrical power. Wait 1 minute and then plug the washer back in to the see if the fault code clears. If it does, then the washer may work normally.

If the code reappears, then you could have a wire harness connection problem, a failed user interface control board or a failed central control unit. I recommend calling a service technician to properly diagnose and repair this type of problem so that the correct component can be replaced.


Be sure your unit is plugged into a 3 prong grounded outlet as well.


F71 is a "heatbeat failure" which means that your front interface control board is shorted and will need to be replaced. it's actually fairly easy to replace and can definitely be done by yourself. To access the part, just pull the unit forward and remove the 3 screws coming in from the back of the top panel. Remove the top panel by pulling it back, up, and off. Then remove all the screws going into the top of the control panel. Remove the dispenser drawer and remove the screws coming in through the dispenser. Remove the screws coming from the inside of the dryer going forward into the control panel, then remove the control panel (it's just clipped in on the bottom. After that you can disconnect the wire harnesses to the front interface control board and replace that part.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

repl/ touch panel ,were the front push buttons are the whole assembly ,,

possible front control bd ..be sure there is 220 volts to rear connection first

FWIW ... the Sears guy came by yesterday. The problem was apparently that the door latch was not operating to the extent that the sensors thought the door was open. He is replacing the latch next week. He adjusted the old one in the mean tiome and it appears to be working fine.

This kind of stunned me, since my wife reported an electric zap and the interior light burned out as the dryer went dead -- so I was sure it would be a fried circuit board -- but, no, a little jiggling of the latch seemed to clear it up....

I have a Kenmore HE5 Steam: after a power failure last week, now when you turn the dryer on and push"start" the cycle stops emediately and flashes PF...

circuit breaker tripped, fuse blown in dryer.........

Front Panel lights not working? Dryer inside light does work? I fixed this twice already on my dryer. Please read this whole explanation I live in New Orleans where the humidity is very high. I have a laundry room where my Washer and Dryer reside. Kenmore HE4T. I noticed that when I shut the laundry room door, my central A/C pulls hot air from outside the house via the dryer exhaust duct. This causes moisture to build on the inside of the dryer and especially the front control panel. Did you ever see moisture on your dryer?s door even when there were no clothes in it? The moisture collects on the Silicon board that controls the dyers function and basically causes a short. This is what I do to fix it. You will need a ¼ nut driver or socket. 1. Confirm that you have power to the dryer <- is the inside dryer light on when you open the door. YES- keep reading.. NO ? find the circuit breaker and reset it. 2. UNPUG THE DRYER! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 3. Find the 3 screws in the back of the dryer that hold the dryer lid on. Unscrew them and slid the lid back and lift off. Is there moisture on the inside of the lid? 4. Find the 2 screws that hold down the front control panel. They should be silver and will be on top. Do not remove the inside gold screws. 5. Find the 3 screws that hold down the power control panel on the top left side of the dryer. Probably has a high voltage warning sticker on it. 6. Lift the power control panel (sheet metal) part and move it to the right so it lays on the dyers drum. There are some wires attached to it and unless you are a very handy person, I wouldn?t remove them. 7. Lift the front control panel straight up until it comes out of the dryer. There should be some wires that attach this piece to the power control panel. If you are handy, you can remove these 2 clip-on wires from the power control panel by squeezing the black connector locking clip and releasing it from the panel. 8. If you flip the control panel around you may notice moisture on the green silicon chips. Get a hairdryer and take your time to dry them. 9. Dry all components of the dryer with a hairdryer. 10. Put everything back together except for the lid and all the screws. Remember that the front control panel slides down first and then the power control panel sits on top second. Plug the dryer in and see if you get lights, but don?t start the dryer. Unplug the dryer and replace all the screws and the lid. The problem is that once the dryer gets wet from the moisture, it never dries enough for it to start working again. This is a bad design from Sears/Whirlpool. I learn my lesson that just because its more expensive doesn?t make it more better. I now keep my dryer and washer door open all the time even when there are no clothes in it. This lets the moisture escape into the house rather than collect in the dryer. I hope this helps at least one person. Thanks Jason Kennedy from New Orleans