Adjusting valves
SOURCE: I have a 1996 harley davidsin FLHP with electronic
If your stock air cleaner has not been replaced you should be able to install the pipes with no adjustments. Run the bike a few miles and check your spark plugs. They should be a nice tan color. If they are too dark, your bike is running rich, too light means its running lean. Either way the ecm download from harley should fix you up. At that point you should get the screamin eagle ac kit and down load.
SOURCE: i want to adjust my vales on my motorcycle
Coming from a previous ninja owner/rider. I know adjusting the valves is a project to get the mixture just right. If you say it is running fine, I would leave it alone. It you are really looking for more power, get a jet kit which comes specific for your bike and includes a bunch of different sized jets. But my honest opinion even after reaching 20,000 miles on this bike, if it isn't broken don't change it. The best way to learn is to meet a bike mechanic and become friends with him to learn more. There are usually 3 valves that control different RPM mixtures, a low mixture knob controls RPMs from idle-6k- mid knob from 6-9 and high knob that controls the fuel-to-air mixture at high RPMs from 9-12k+ rpm's. This is just one example and they are all different. Basically you test your RPM range, adjust the knob, and repeat until you find the right feel. Too much or too little gas it will get boggy in that RPM region. Oh and don't turn the high mixture valve thinking it's the low, get a repair manual online to locate the proper knobs and you could do it yourself.
SOURCE: how do i do vales adjustmentmy self?
Download this pdf manual free from this link and go to page 106
http://www.gofastvideo.com/video/437/Yamaha-R1-2002-Service-Manual
SOURCE: How to do a valve adjustment on a 2001 TRIUMPH
I assume you are using the Triumph issued tool. Do you have a Service Manual. It has a picture
of the tool and a note: The tool mounting plate is marked 'IN' &
'EX' denoting which are the inlet and exhaust sides of the tool. Always
ensure that the tool assembly instructions are closely followed to
ensure correct tool operation.
Hold the legs firmly against the mounting plate and tighten the leg to
mounting plate fixings to 7Nm. Turn the engine over until the camshaft
lobes for the valves to be adjusted point directly away from the
valves. As the valves begin to close, the tool legs will prevent the
valves from rising, allowing the shims to be removed using a soft faced
lever and a magnet. (the shim is often a tight fit in the tappet).
Replace new shim, coated with engine oil on both sides. Turn the engine
over until the camshaft fully opens the valves being adjusted. Remove
the tool with the valve fully open. Check the shim has seated correctly
and adjust, if necessary, before proceeding.
Note: The tool is designed to allow adjustment of 2 pairs of valves
without moving the mounting plate. This is achieved by moving the tool
legs to a new location once one pair has been adjusted.
Repeat the procedure until all valves have been adjusted.
You'll need a shim selection chart to make things simple.
Place the tool with the IN pointed to the Intake Valves & EX pointed to the Exhaust valves. Does that help?
SOURCE: Adjusting timing on Harley Davidson 1976 sportster
The advance timing should be 35° before Top Dead Center. This is how you find out which mark this is.
Get the rear wheel of the bike off the ground, remove the spark plugs, shift the bike into fourth gear, and remove the timing plug from the left engine case.
Now, take an ordinary PLASTIC DRINKING STRAW and insert it into the front spark plug hole. Do not use anything else or you stand a chance of it breaking and then you'll have to pull the head to get it out. The plastic straw will bend but not break.
Bump the rear wheel in the direction that it turns while riding down the road until the piston pushes the straw all the way up and just barely starts going back down. Look into the timing hole. You should see a timing mark. This is the Top Dead Center mark. Now, bump the rear wheel BACKWARDS until you see another mark. This should be the ADVANCED TIMING MARK. The piston should 7/16" down from top dead center.
On this model Sportster the timing is advanced by a mechanical advance mechanism. These units are notorious for wearing out and not contolling the timing very well. You must remove the breaker plate to inspect this mechanism. Mark the position of the plate before you remove it. If the pins and holes in the flyweights are worn, replace the unit. Replace it with a good needle bearing unit. Replace the points and reset the gap at 0.018 - 0.020".
403 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×